dubow mfg

[Greg Gale]

Look...at...that...grain!

 

[B-Man2]

Question...

In a pure repro context, does matching period HH or Cow will only be obtain with very expensive hide? Talking about (grain-texture-color-aging-cut)...

Let's say the answer is not necessarily yes, then can we obtain a faithful reproduction with matched specs materials (zippers-knits...) done in good Cow hide that has character, tanned like the originals ?

Is it just me (newbie), but the hide quality offered by the high end top tier surpasses the originals?

Please help me understand or tell me I am way off!

Thanx,

D

If you can get your hands on a copy of Gary Eastman’s A2 book, I think you will find that many more A2 jacket contracts were produced in cow hide than originally thought . I was surprised to find that many of the original A2 jackets that I own are made from cow hide and not horsehide.

 

[Dany McDonald]

If you can get your hands on a copy of Gary Eastman’s A2 book, I think you will find that many more A2 jacket contracts were produced in cow hide than originally thought . I was surprised to find that many of the original A2 jackets that I own are made from cow hide and not horsehide.

Interesting and not a surprise as war is blind on provenance as long as it's supplied.

My main question still stands, can we recreate a period correct A-2 from low cost cow hide that has character and tanned correctly?

Again, sorry if i don't make sense. I am no where near your knowledge and collection....!

D

 

[B-Man2]

Interesting and not a surprise as war is blind on provenance as long as it's supplied.

My main question still stands, can we recreate a period correct A-2 from low cost cow hide that has character and tanned correctly?

Again, sorry if i don't make sense. I am no where near your knowledge and collection....!

D

I posted this photo just last week so let me apologize to the people who have already seen it , but I think it will answer your question. As I understand what your asking, can low cost cow hide utilizing today’s production and tanning techniques replicate a period WWII looking A2 flight jacket. Well I’ll let you be the judge.
Here’s a repro of a Dubow 1755 made from cow hide by Good Wear.

 

[Greg Gale]

That collar is very stylish!

 

[Dany McDonald]

I love this jacket...

Seriously, I could be mislead to believing it's an original with new cuffs and waistband or a full restoration!

Just out of curiosity, is the cow as expensive as hh? And what proportion (cost$) goes to the hide itself in producing a jacket?

Again what a beauty...

D

 

[B-Man2]

I love this jacket...

Seriously, I could be mislead to believing it's an original with new cuffs and waistband or a full restoration!

Just out of curiosity, is the cow as expensive as hh? And what proportion (cost$) goes to the hide itself in producing a jacket?

Again what a beauty...



D

I can reply to the first part of your question regarding the cost of cow hide verses horse hide. A cow hide jacket depending on who the manufacturer is, runs about 1/2 to 2/3 rds the cost of a horse hide jacket , depending on who the manufacturer is making the horse hide jacket.
Production cost are out of my realm of knowledge , you’ll have to check with others here who are actually hands on jacket manufacturing people.

 

[Lebowski]

View attachment 7052
My “ grainy” HH GW Dubow.
All others I have do not have this grain...

Wow!
It looks incredibly cool to my taste. Fabulous jacket, I just can't believe it's a repro. Looks fantastic.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

I can reply to the first part of your question regarding the cost of cow hide verses horse hide. A cow hide jacket depending on who the manufacturer is, runs about 1/2 to 2/3 rds the cost of a horse hide jacket , depending on who the manufacturer is making the horse hide jacket.
Production cost are out of my realm of knowledge , you’ll have to check with others here who are actually hands on jacket manufacturing people.

Whan we started using Horsehide in 1986, Arnold Missner, the President of Horween told us nobody had bought (or even asked about) Horsehide for clothing for about 25 years, he took some convincing that there was any market for the leather, but promised us if it did take off that he wouldn't sell the leather to anyone else. As far as we know we were the only firm making Horsehide Jackets until around 1988
Price was cheaper the the UK Tanned Steer we had been using before that.
Two or three years later one of the UK Tanneries we'd been working with started producing a Horsehide, they'd noticed the sudden drop off on our steerhide buying. I know that was where ELC and McCoy got their first Horsehide from.
Gradually the demand pushed the price of horse past steer, this has escalated over the years, if one looked hard enough I'd imagine there's Steer available for around 10% of the price of the highest grade Horsehide, I believe our cheapest Steer is around half the price of Vicenza but the biggest saving on steer is on cutting, it's a lot easier and more ecenomical to cut a jacket from one 50 sq ft skin than it is from five 10 sq ft skins.

In the last 30 years Horse has gone from being far the best value on the leather market to possibly one of the most overpriced, solely by the laws of supply & demand

 

[Ole]

Wow!
It looks incredibly cool to my taste. Fabulous jacket, I just can't believe it's a repro. Looks fantastic.

Really? Sorry mate but this doesn't look as an original A-2. It looks more like what they call "predistressed cowhide" (because that's what it is).

Ask Ken, he knows.

 

[Ken at Aero Leather]

I believe the favourable comments were about the jacket pictured lying flat on the grass, (Pilot's Dubow) not the one Ole posted about, B-Man-2's jacket

 

[Ole]

Yeah I guess you are right.

 

[Brettafett]

Has anyone seen an original 27798 with olive stitching?

Recently read this in the 'Our material' section, "Most original 27798 contract jackets were made with an olive drab thread that has faded with time and sun exposure to a tan/yellowish/cream color. We have in our pocession an original well preserved Dubow 27798 jacket in which the color has not faded and the original olive drab color of the thread is clearly visible."
Personally, like olive drab stitching....

 

[Roughwear]

Recently read this in the 'Our material' section, "Most original 27798 contract jackets were made with an olive drab thread that has faded with time and sun exposure to a tan/yellowish/cream color. We have in our pocession an original well preserved Dubow 27798 jacket in which the color has not faded and the original olive drab color of the thread is clearly visible."
Personally, like olive drab stitching....

Whilst it is true olive drab thread fades over time due to exposure to the light, those sections of thread that receive less exposure such as inside the pockets always show less fading. The light brown thread used on my Dubow is much the same colour everywhere probably because the jacket was stored in a footlocker since the War. I would like to see pictures of an original Dubow from this contract where olive thread was used.

 

[Pilot]

Recently read this in the 'Our material' section, "Most original 27798 contract jackets were made with an olive drab thread that has faded with time and sun exposure to a tan/yellowish/cream color. We have in our pocession an original well preserved Dubow 27798 jacket in which the color has not faded and the original olive drab color of the thread is clearly visible."
Personally, like olive drab stitching....

Seeing is believing....
I only saw Andrew’s Dubow... and a few others...
...sorry no olive drab...
Please convince us...
Thx for sharing...

 

[Grant]

Thanks for the info Brett! What publication are you referring with 'Our material section'? Would love to read it.
You inspired me to take a closer look at my 27798 and sure as shit, the stitching used on the hanger strap is still clearly olive drab! It's cool to see all the other stitching protected from any daylight has faded to a mid/light tan color. Love learning new stuff about this crazy hobby!

 

[Lebowski]

Really? Sorry mate but this doesn't look as an original A-2. It looks more like what they call "predistressed cowhide" (because that's what it is).

Ask Ken, he knows.

Wrong quote mate.
Please read my comment once again ' cause I was talkin' about this one :

View attachment 7052
My “ grainy” HH GW Dubow.
All others I have do not have this grain...

Anyway, both GW above are excellent. Absolutely. No doubts.

 

[Brettafett]

Grant, that was from JADubows website!

 

[Pilot]

Thanks for the info Brett! What publication are you referring with 'Our material section'? Would love to read it.
You inspired me to take a closer look at my 27798 and sure as shit, the stitching used on the hanger strap is still clearly olive drab! It's cool to see all the other stitching protected from any daylight has faded to a mid/light tan color. Love learning new stuff about this crazy hobby!

View attachment 7095 View attachment 7096 View attachment 7097

Wow, impressive!
Thx for sharing.

 

[Grant]

Thanks, but that really doesn't help. It'd be interesting to learn where Platon got that info from.