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Bill Kelso A-2 Review

cmk-2

Member
To say I’m pleased with my latest purchase from Bill Kelso (a Star 42-18245-P) would be a gross understatement. I jumped at the offer that BK gave the VLJ forum back the September timeframe. You may remember that I purchased a Bill Kelso AERO 18775 in Russet Antique finished Horsehide with Red knits in May of 2013 while that jacket is good and is getting better (as it gets older and broken in), it just not in the same league when compared to the Star in their Seal Liberty horsehide. So what makes the difference? The Liberty horsehide! In my 40 years of purchasing original and reproduction A-2 flight jackets I have always felt that the reproduction A-2 hides were too heavy and thick. Most did not have the grain or the finish that gave it the look, feel and drape of the originals I had owned or studied and the originals that I have seen in old movies and TV series. It’s hard to put in words but a lot of the reproductions I have owned, the finish did not have a depth to them, almost a vinyl look to them. Not the case for the Liberty Hide. As a matter of fact this is the first A-2 that I didn’t want to give it the HWT or use Steel Wool to give the finish some charter. I realize that original A-2s vary in weight and thickness but for the most part they are not a heavy hide/jacket. With that said I owned an original Bronco and it was a heavy and thick hide on the other end I had a Re-dyed J.A. Dubow that was thin and very lite in weight (also stiff due to the being re-dyed by the AAF in WWll). I took three reproduction jackets and one original (RoughWear 27752) down to our mailing room and put them on the scale and here are the numbers and sizes please note that the 27752 is a size 40.
Good Wear RoughWear… size 42 3.64 Lbs.
BK Aero Antique finish… size 42 3.52 Lbs.
BK Star Liberty hide……. size 44 3.14 Lbs.
Original RoughWear 27752….. Size 40 2.70 Lbs.
Now, you may not think that ½ Lb. in a jacket would make a difference but believe me it does. The way the jacket drapes and lays on the body and the way it feels when you wear it.
Next, the knits have been improved. They are a bit more course in texture when compared to the BK Aero and feel lighter in weight (closer to the originals).
The only item that I do not feel that has been improved and where all reproductions seem to fall short is the lining. I feel that the weave is not tight enough. On the originals the lining seems to be almost water repellent due (IMO) to the tightness of the cotton weave or maybe there was a chemical applied to the cotton lining. When I purchase a new shirt or a pair of pants with wrinkle and stain resistance they have a sheen to them that reminds me of original lining in A-2 jacket.

I can't seem to upload my photos, so if you would like to see the fit email me.
 

CBI

Well-Known Member
you know what they say, "didn't happen without pics!"

I did the same thing though on a recent B-10 update. Jacket off to the tailors before I took pics.
 

cmk-2

Member
Hi Dave,
I'm comparing the lining of my Star from Bill Kelso to the lining of originals. I feel that every reproduction I have ever owned or handled comes up short on the lining. The one exception would be a Buzz Rickson I purchased from HPA that was a special edition with Red Silk lining.
 

foster

Well-Known Member
Linings are something I have been trying to study, but thus far I only have replicas to look at. My background is in textiles, so the lining is something I like to look at.

I will mention that when the lining gets soaking wet the fibers tend to draw up and tighten. If the fabric is made of good quality yarns and fibers it can certainly yield a superior fabric. As for treatment, mercerizing is the only thing I can think of, which may have been done at the time. It is the process of swelling the cotton fibers and this can tighten the structure as well as impart more sheen.
 

cmk-2

Member
Foster, you may have hit the mark with mercerizing. Would that give a stronger fabric? Or stain/water resistant fabric? Also I have noticed that the original linings have less friction when putting on or taking off your jacket. Would mercerizing account for that? Is Good Wear, Bill Kelso and Eastman listening?
 

foster

Well-Known Member
I don't know that mercerizing would make the fabric stronger, but it does increase luster. When you look at the cross section of a cotton fiber, it usually looks like a "C" shape, not round. Mercerization swells the fiber to make it more of a round cross section. Volume is increased but density decreases. With the fiber swelled, it should be less absorbent as well (cotton swells to absorb moisture, but once swollen it doesn't absorb as much past saturation).

I have looked at the linings in a few of the current repros, and thus far I find the Eastman lining fabric to be the tightest woven of the ones I have seen.
 

Brent

Well-Known Member
photo.jpg


Star.jpg


Posting these up for cmk-2.
I like it, looking forward until mine is ready.

Regards,
Brent
 

Brent

Well-Known Member
Well I don't know why the pictures didn't post. Let me know if the link doesn't work.

Regards,
Brent
 

colekwok

Active Member
Actually, it is true, I have never thought about the linings of A-2s. I shall go back and have a look at all my A-2s.

As for the weights of my jackets, I have done that a while ago.

weight.jpg
 
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