X-2 - The A-2 Pre Contract Test Jacket by Headwind Mfg Co

[33-1729]

It appears that the 1931 US Government fiscal year was July 1, 1930 - June 30, 1931. That may or may not be relevant or helpful to this discussion.

https://fraser.stlouisfed.org/title/54/item/18974

Yes, those 1931 financial year dates can be of help.

Looking at an A-1 label the order number is 31-800P, suggesting an August-ish 1930 order date and the Goldsmith A-2 order number is 31-1897, suggesting an October-ish 1930 order date. The dates aren’t exact, but it does point to the A-1 replacement being completed during the fall of 1930 as noted by the Hell-Bent for Leather book by Nelson & Parsons. There were complaints noted at the time about the poor material quality of the A-1 knit cuffs and collar, so people may have purchased their own jacket instead of using an A-1. I did read an interesting article in one of the aircraft magazines from the time and they noted mail carriers were having a much greater life expectancy since they started wearing better garments – that would make me bundle up too.

 

[Skyhawk]

We will be rebooting this project once we are caught up with current orders. We have the patterns made and ready to go, so it is essentially just a matter of getting another jacket built in the proper hide.

 

[Skyhawk]

New photographic evidence has surfaced with this original 8 x 10 newsreel photo I obtained from 1931. Some blurry details were brought into focus with this new image. I am now 100% sure that Spalding made this jacket.

Digitizing the photo allowed me to zoom in further and identify some details that could not be seen with a magnifying glass. Also this image is now saved. Insuring it won't be lost to history when the photo disintegrates.

Zooming in we can see that "final nail in the coffin" detail that identifies Spalding.

No rivets on the Hookless zipper. Spalding is the only Mfg that I have seen that did this ill-advised technique of zipper attachment. We all know how finicky the bottom boxes can be on these zips. A misalignment can result in complete failure. That's why the rivets are there. To anchor the bottom in place to make it easier to operate.

None the less, Spalding did it as evidenced in their catalog images and also on surviving jackets. Maybe for a clean look? Not sure.

It seemed to work in this case but I don't think the USAC liked it because the following early contract jackets all had rivets. For that matter, all the other jackets I have even seen with a Hookless zipper had the rivets installed. Regardless of the maker.
You would think that would at least rivet it through the back, or sew it in place, but no they did not. You can see the empty rivet hole in this close up:

When we make this jacket, I will probably rivet it on the inside underneath the zip leather flap. It will still have the no rivet look, but will be strong enough to avoid misalignment.

 

[ShanghaiJack]

Amazing research Jay...!!!

 

[Skyhawk]

Thanks! That photo was a huge find.

Another feature gleaned from this image is the throat closure type and attachment. This image provides the ability to zoom in further than any other image I have found. Digitizing the image also allows for applying filters to get more contrast out of the image. You can clearly see below that the jacket has the standard throat latch but it is attached on the opposite side, on the right. It is oddly attached on the outside of the collar stand backwards so that the hook goes over the edge to the inside. The loop side was attached on the left on the outside of the collar stand, but closer to the edge to be able to connect with the hook and close the neck of the jacket.

That shape is unmistakable

Below we can see that left loop side protruding off the collar stand (his left / right side of photo)

Spatz seemed to like wearing his latched. There are several of photos of him at different times with it closed. Here you can make out the protruding loop side in the middle, on the outside of the collar stand

And again:

 

[Skyhawk]

We have made our first Prototype of the Spalding A-2. This one was ordered by a forum member many moons ago and has finally come to fruition. There was much research, theories, Theories proven wrong with new photographic evidence, changes made, and finally the production:
The jacket was made from Capeskin originally and we honor that by using our authentic Chestnut South African Capeskin. The pockets are smaller than the later A-2's and more narrow. This jacket was part of a process evolution from the A-1, into the A-2. These features persist into the Goldsmith Contract as well. The SAT contract was a further departure from the A-1 into the A-2. The pockets got wider, the hook method was finalized, etc. This jacket had machined pocket button holes like the A-1's before it. The buttons were 2 hole, wide rimmed, raised, Casein and we have found identical genuine Casein button for this reproduction in a nice chocolate color.

We had custom knits made that are a darker seal and have the long tube end section seen on these jackets. Also in this shot the lack of rivets on the Hookless zipper. Spalding was the only flight jacket maker to leave off the rivets. This can be seen with some of their civilian flight jackets. All the other major flight gear makers of the time used rivets to secure the zipper base:

The hook setup was finally identified after much discussion and theories. Luckily I obtained an original 8X10 photo of the jacket and could zoom in enough to see it.

 

[flyincowboy]

look like a loose stitching on the zipper tape you need to adjust the tension!

 

[Skyhawk]

look like a loose stitching on the zipper tape you need to adjust the tension!

That only happened on that one little section on the zipper jet reinforcement. it's not surprising because it is super thick there with a rolled over edge and the zipper tape. The entire rest of the jacket is good and it doesn't effect the strength. Also it doesn't show on the outside of the zip at all. One tiny section on the inside of the jacket, with the rest looking like below, probably a fluke and non-issue. I will keep my eye on it though and we will do our best to avoid it in the future.

 

[flyincowboy]

you need to use a professinal" walking foot" sewing machine and no worries with the thickness
got a trusty ADLER 167 AND PFAFF 1435

 

[Skyhawk]

Cool machine. Usually it's no problem though. With 99% of the seams good I don't see the need to buy new machines for the crew. These little issues were also evident on original A-2's. especially on labels where plenty of tension issues can be seen:

 

[Micawber]

Upper thread tension is a bit loose.

 

[flyincowboy]

YES easy fix

 

[Skyhawk]

A few more shots:

 

[2BM2K]

Looking good.
A few observations;

No military label?
With only the Spalding label it looks like a civilian jacket. There is nothing
to identify it as an A2 jacket. This could be detrimental to sales.

For a label I believe that this is what may have been fitted to the prototype jacket;

Inside wind flap;
I had imagined that the inside flap to be leather. Working in conjunction with the jetted seam to form a seal.

Pockets;
Pocket placement in the period photo's looks to be a lot closer to the windflap/zipper.

The seam on the top of the pocket flap looks wider
in the period photo's.

Bottom leather tabs on zipper:
Not wide enough on one side, note that it almost aligns to pocket.

Capeskin?
I know that you favour capeskin but I believe that there are good reasons for it being horsehide.
Or maybe several different hides were tried and tested.

 

[Skyhawk]

@2BM2K
Thanks so much for your input. That is the kind of constructive criticism that really helps!

1. The labels - This jacket is NOT an A-2. This jacket occurred before the A-2 drawings were approved. The time frame they appear and the vital missing elements negate it from meeting the specs. This jacket was most likely a very small beta test run to hammer out the details for the upcoming A-2 drawings and specs.

2. Inside windflap - Yes it should be leather. That was a production error / misunderstanding.

3. Pocket placement- Absolutely correct. The pockets should be closer to the zipper. Another detail missed by my team that is being corrected. This is an interesting feature too. The pockets are on the front of the jacket like an A-1. They would be moved to the side of the jacket for the eventual A-2 drawings.

4. The pocket flap top stitch is a little hazy and we can all discuss this point. This is what I see, I see the same stitch on the body and flap with some sort of other shadow or indentation as well. I think the actual stitch line is the same width. See image below:

5. Capeskin was used. At least on some, if not all of this tiny run of jackets. The grain and flexibility is unmistakable. See Below:

Flimsy soft one layer pocket flap easily bends and tucks inside.

Close up of pocket shows just how flexible this hide is. Look how that drape is around that notebook in the pocket.

Horsehide came with the A-2 Specs. This jacket was made before the specs were complete.

 

[2BM2K]

4. The pocket flap top stitch is a little hazy and we can all discuss this point. This is what I see, I see the same stitch on the body and flap with some sort of other shadow or indentation as well. I think the actual stitch line is the same width. See image below:

I meant the stitches along the top of the pocket flap;

1. The labels - This jacket is NOT an A-2. This jacket occurred before the A-2 drawings were approved. The time frame they appear and the vital missing elements negate it from meeting the specs. This jacket was most likely a very small beta test run to hammer out the details for the upcoming A-2 drawings and specs.

I disagree with that theory. Below is the information that is known;

The drawing number 30-1415 places the drawing in the fiscal year July 1929 to June 1930. The specification states that the drawing forms part of the specification.

This is from the letter about the specification, it shows the drawing's name as Flying Jacket, Type A2;

Dargue was photographed wearing this jacket in April 1930.

Service test date Sept 20th 1930. (completion of testing?)

Goldsmith jacket produced in horse hide in October 1930 (a forum member identified October being the contract month)

It all seems to follow a logical sequence for producing a new type jacket.

 

[Skyhawk]

I meant the stitches along the top of the pocket flap;

View attachment 107209



I disagree with that theory. Below is the information that is known;

The drawing number 30-1415 places the drawing in the fiscal year July 1929 to June 1930. The specification states that the drawing forms part of the specification.

This is from the letter about the specification, it shows the drawing's name as Flying Jacket, Type A2;
View attachment 107211

Dargue was photographed wearing this jacket in April 1930.

Service test date Sept 20th 1930. (completion of testing?)

Goldsmith jacket produced in horse hide in October 1930 (a forum member identified October being the contract month)

It all seems to follow a logical sequence for producing a new type jacket.

Copy on the pocket and I agree. It needs to be changed on the top.

I remember all the above dating discussions. What I can't agree with is that if they followed the drawings of the A-2, then why no epaulets? Why the pocket placement on the front. If you look at the Goldsmith however, they did follow the A-2 drawings. Pockets on the side of the jacket, epaulets, and those misunderstood "Leather Faced Buttons". I believe those handmade buttons were supposed to be covered by leather, but the facing part was misunderstood as the button holes themselves being faced, rather that the entire button being covered as was intended.
Goldsmith A-2 compared to A-1's and A-2's. More like an A-2:

Contrast the X-2 test jacket with the A-1's. It's a lot closer with it's front positioned pockets, no epaulets and regular non faced machined buttons. They were not following A-2 drawings. At least not the finalized ones:

I love these types of conversations! This is what the forum is all about in my mind!

My belief is that this prototype pre contract A-2 jacket is just that. It was made before the A-2 specs were finalized, and the things learned from this test jacket helped finalize the specs.
I.E. - The pockets need to be moved to the sides of the jacket, we need epaulets on it.... etc....etc...

 

[2BM2K]

It is not known what all the details of the drawing show as drawing 30-1415 has not been found.

The jacket certainly evolved during the first few iterations. The first "proper" A2 being the 33-1729 but even
that still had the jetted edge.

My main interest in this is to find the missing information about the prototype jacket. The only clue is the number 30-1415. There should be an AC fiscal report for the year 1929 to 1930. If this could be found then it might show how many were made and who made them.

Searching for such documents is beyond my ken.

At present there is photographic evidence for 9 of these jackets.

 

[Skyhawk]

Yes we need the drawings and all info we can find. The day those are found is going to be an epic day! Those who have looked I think have researched USAAF but not the USAAC. It would be under USAAC and the answers may reside somewhere in the archives with the Air Corps stuff.
A couple of additional problems with this being an A-2 contract.
1. Only 10 jackets - Even Goldsmith made at least 25 and that is a tiny contract.
2. We know all the Companies that were awarded contracts and the contract numbers. This jacket is unaccounted for.

 

[Skyhawk]

We have made our final prototype of this historic and rare jacket, paying special attention to the strange details outlined throughout our research in this thread.
The AG Spalding A-2 (X-2) is now available to order.