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Ww2 hides vs. modern hides

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Here’s a perfect example of mixed wartime hides
It’s a Cable with grainy sleeves and smooth body panels.

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Enigma1938

Well-Known Member
believe it or not, probably the nicest grain in my current collection of 15 leather jackets is this:
View attachment 102375View attachment 102377View attachment 102379

Five star USL horsehide I received in January, I've been wearing this a lot mainly indoors. Some panels ultra smooth, some panels super grainy.
Probably also a result of cost effectiveness like it was in ww2. Shawn has to hold the prices in purchasing material low to keep the budget prices for his jackets. So again like mulceber mentioned the tanneries can get rid of their "ugly" hides.
 

johnwayne

Well-Known Member
Not sure I get the obsession with grainy vs smooth! Back in the day I would have thought/assume that logistics being what they were determined that prob most hides were from US horse/cattle/goat and doubt much close inspection was paid certainly once a wartime footing was established!
I couldn’t tell you if a US horse is likely to produce a quite different hide than say a European one? Doubt the inspectors could be that picky and prob only ever saw finished jackets. Yes before contracts were issued samples were sent as seen in Eastmans A2 ‘bible’ - I reckon that given what we’re paying makes us too picky but ‘given’ an A2 in 40’s to sit in your P51 we wouldn’t have cared!!!
 

flyincowboy

Well-Known Member
Just one thing most of the time the leather is in the " DRUM" during the tanning process with some additive.. The more the hide are drummed the more the skin will have a more peebly aspect. Seen that process on calf skin used on car seats.
 
While the tanning process was different then, the fact that they wore their jackets about 18 hours a day certainly helped to break down the hides and help with the graining process .,I have had repros that look like this. At the risk of sounding like a sales rep for Good Wear Leather, I’ve seen and owned a few of jCs jackets that develop similar graining patterns. Another point is that cow hide and horse hide Grain up differently . As we all now know cow hide jackets were more prevalent in some of the contracts than we first thought. So is the jacket in the photo a cow hide or a horse hide A2. I’ve had cow hide A2’s that Grain up fairly quickly where as horse hide jackets take a lot longer .

Edit : just found this . It may help .

18 hours a day and subjected to a lot of rain and freezing temps too. I would imagine these would also help.
 

Smithy

Well-Known Member
This subject comes up at least once a year which is understandable with new members wanting to ask about it.

The answers are the same though...

Original A-2 hides were chrome tanned and the method used is different to now so there are differences in drape and appearance.

It's maybe oversimplifying but it's essentially on the money, and to keep it concise...

Modern veg tanned leathers usually have a better similarity in appearance to the surface qualities of original A-2s but the drape of the leather it far, far stiffer than an original A-2 would have had when new.

Modern chrome tanned leathers often have a drape which more closely resembles the drape that an original would have had but the appearance of the leather 9 times out of 10 lacks the variance, richness and depth that the old school, old method chrome tanning produced.

So therein lies the classic trade-off - drape versus appearance of modern leather choices for an A-2.
 

ZuZu

Well-Known Member
This subject comes up at least once a year which is understandable with new members wanting to ask about it.

The answers are the same though...

Original A-2 hides were chrome tanned and the method used is different to now so there are differences in drape and appearance.

It's maybe oversimplifying but it's essentially on the money, and to keep it concise...

Modern veg tanned leathers usually have a better similarity in appearance to the surface qualities of original A-2s but the drape of the leather it far, far stiffer than an original A-2 would have had when new.

Modern chrome tanned leathers often have a drape which more closely resembles the drape that an original would have had but the appearance of the leather 9 times out of 10 lacks the variance, richness and depth that the old school, old method chrome tanning produced.

So therein lies the classic trade-off - drape versus appearance of modern leather choices for an A-2.
Perfect!
 
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