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Willis & Geiger NA-1 (Size 46) 37J1 repro

Dr H

Well-Known Member
Just took delivery of this one - the Willis & Geiger copy of the 37J1B (given the fictitious number NA-1, navy A-1?), which I had hoped would be a useful summer jacket when it gets too warm for the capeskin A-1.

I'll preface the comments by saying that it's not in the league of the much pricier Buzz Rickson 37J1 or Real McCoy's 37J1B (the latter copied from John Chapman's original - pure unobtanium as a wise man once said, and rarer than rocking horse poop...) .

Better images and a review to follow, but this is taken with an iPhone under fluorescent light - more buff coloured in natural light.

CIMG2843_zpsb6f859cc.jpg


The good news is that I'm very impressed with the quality of the tailoring - I'd feared this would be a flimsy summer jacket, but the weight of Bedford cord is not at all bad and all the bits are present and working nicely. Cuffs and waistband are a good weight and elasticity - buttons have a good dished profile, good copy of a period Talon.

The bad news is the size. I wear a vintage 44 in most things and as a 46 it's just a bit too baggy/wide on the shoulders (i.e. it fits as a 46).

I'll take some more images and review it, but then it's on to the Buy/Sell Board...

I've decided to bite the bullet and ask a Japanese friend to source an RM 37J1B Zielinski.
 

CBI

Well-Known Member
Very nice!

If too big, soak in hot water and put in the dryer. I'll bet it shrinks quite a bit..
 

airfrogusmc

Well-Known Member
Dr H said:
Just took delivery of this one - the Willis & Geiger copy of the 37J1B (given the fictitious number NA-1, navy A-1?), which I had hoped would be a useful summer jacket when it gets too warm for the capeskin A-1.

I'll preface the comments by saying that it's not in the league of the much pricier Buzz Rickson 37J1 or Real McCoy's 37J1B (the latter copied from John Chapman's original - pure unobtanium as a wise man once said, and rarer than rocking horse poop...) .

Better images and a review to follow, but this is taken with an iPhone under fluorescent light - more buff coloured in natural light.

CIMG2843_zpsb6f859cc.jpg


The good news is that I'm very impressed with the quality of the tailoring - I'd feared this would be a flimsy summer jacket, but the weight of Bedford cord is not at all bad and all the bits are present and working nicely. Cuffs and waistband are a good weight and elasticity - buttons have a good dished profile, good copy of a period Talon.

The bad news is the size. I wear a vintage 44 in most things and as a 46 it's just a bit too baggy/wide on the shoulders (i.e. it fits as a 46).

I'll take some more images and review it, but then it's on to the Buy/Sell Board...

I've decided to bite the bullet and ask a Japanese friend to source an RM 37J1B Zielinski.

I had one years ago. It was sadly to small but it is a decent jacket for sure. IIRC I bought mine new from W&G late 1990s maybe 1998 or 1999 I would still have it if it were just a but larger.
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
I own one of these NA-1s myself (as well as a very similar Willis, of twill with handwarmer pockets and no stamping.)

Just judging from photos, I would think the originals (and probably the high-end repros) are made of much heavier fabric. The Willises are also not water treated as the Navy contracts were.
7263400038_d471e64c98.jpg
 

SuinBruin

Well-Known Member
Dr H said:
I've decided to bite the bullet and ask a Japanese friend to source an RM 37J1B Zielinski.
I knew you'd come around. :mrgreen: It is a truly awesome jacket.
 

Dr H

Well-Known Member
Ah, 'fraid so - too predictable. :roll:
Kept looking at the BR 37J1 with the two button square collar fastening and the RM 37J1B with the single collar loop.
Asked John about his original Zielinski and the pros and cons of each.
I really like the finish of the seawater wash of the BR jacket, which fades everything down well, but I prefer the more authentic cut and detailing of the Zielinski contract.
Just need to get the W&G photographed and set up for sale first.
 

Dr H

Well-Known Member
For comparison, the two high end Japanese manufactured USN Bedford cord jackets from the '30s.

37J1 (salty original and sea wash Buzz Rickson)
20101210_1711843_zpsfabb9e93.jpg

20111224_bf8c55_zps88e771be.jpg


Note the original is by Sigmund Eisner & Co. and I imagine that the BR was based on a different contract given the higher pocket placement.

37J1B (Zielinski Contract - salty original belonging to JC and Real McCoy's replica based on same jacket)
front_view2.jpg

37J1-thumb-520x782-25438-thumb-520x782-25439_zps66a2563e.jpg


Subtle differences in cut and pattern.
I take my hat off the Japanese craftsmen in both camps, but that sea wash finish is alarmingly close to the well worn original.

600x600-2011122600011-2_zps347d15c9.jpg
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
Flight of the zombies once again...

From the stamping and pocket stance I'm guessing Larry Heller's $3,500 original was also an Eisner, sans label. Comparing the 2 clues us in that the original OD first lightens with sun and salt, then somehow begins to turn tan!

This does not explain the color change in the knits, of course. I'm still suspicious that surviving 37Js were fitted with brown M-422(A) knit when shipped to training stations. Probably all cuff knit, as I have never seen one with the '422 type singleply/doubleweave waistband.

1477378290_9948953938_o.jpg
 
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