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What is Capeskin? It's not Lamb, Goat, or common Sheep Skin.

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
The modern definition of Capeskin in the textile industry includes Sheep, Goat and even Lambskin under the name of Capeskin. What was the original Capeskin made from in the 1920's & 1930's?

Answer: It was a specific breed of hairy sheep.
Cape Sheep-2.jpg



Genuine Capeskin is a leather made from the hide of a breed of long haired sheep that originated on the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa. The breed has been spread to other regions and is now being raised in other places in addition to South Africa. The hide varies a great deal from other types of common sheep skin. It is thicker and much softer in texture. This gives the hide much more flexibility at the same thickness as other leathers and is probably why it was chosen for early flight jackets. It provided protection with the thickness while great flexibility for moving around in the cramped cockpits. The only drawback is that the softness of the leather makes it prone to chipping and less resistant to wear and the elements.


Fake Capeskin in the Industry - Buyer Beware

The confusion about what kind of hide Capeskin is made from has occurred because of the changing standards of the modern textile industry. At some point the modern definition of Capeskin changed to include Common Sheepskin, Lambskin and Goatskin. There are in fact jacket makers out there selling Capeskin that is not made from Cape Sheep but falls under the modern, catch all definition. Usually it is Common Sheepskin being used and the grain is far too smooth. It is understandable whether done by error or on purpose. It is extremely difficult to find tanneries that handle Capeskin, and even harder to find one who can customize the color and grain.

At Headwind Mfg Co we are happy to have a tanner that handles genuine Capeskin and can customize our hides to our specifications.




How Can I Tell If Capeskin is Genuine?

First off Capeskin is far softer and lighter than other leathers of the same thickness. It feels different in the hand, almost like a thick fabric.

Capeskin has several characteristics in the grain that can be identified. The hide can be processed to have a smoother grain or so that a lot of grain shows, but there are two things that should be present regardless of the processing.

1. Very small pore like bumps that run in a line patterns. Similar to lizard scales. They appear in lines almost like fingerprint ridges.
2. Large pillow like bumps. These vary depending on tanning process but should be evident somewhere on the jacket.

Check out the Capeskin below, our Superior Grain Oxblood . It displays the characteristics well. Note the tiny scale like bumps within the larger grain.


Oxblood-Superior-Grain.jpg

An example of a smoother type of Capeskin is our Chestnut color used for the 37J1 & A-1 jackets which generally had a smoother surface. We had this hide specially made for us to match the color and texture of the original jacket. The surface is smoother but the characteristics are still present.
P1040877.JPG


P1040884.JPG


Here are some examples of original grainy and smoother Capeskin.

Cape-Grain-4.jpg
Cape-Grain-5.jpg
Cape-grain-1.jpg
19290110_Spatz,-Carl.jpg

A-1-Grain-1.jpg

Ad-1.jpg


Note that none of the examples above are completely smooth but have various graining and show the characteristics listed above.
Best Regards,
Jay
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Need to take a closer look at my ELC A1.
Thanks Jay!

I can tell you one thing, if you look at the close ups of the G&F A-1 that Eastman owns, it is not very smooth. The characteristics are clearly visible on the blow up of the pocket flap. It has the puffed up pillow grain and the small pores.

I don't have the rights to the photos but they are easily found online.

I am not going to call any company out for using regular sheep skin for Capeskin. I will say that it is happening and if you think you can get a new genuine Capeskin jacket for under $300, you are dreaming. It is an expensive specialty leather that is difficult to find. Not many tanners handle it theses days.

There are a few companies using the genuine stuff nowadays, but there are quite a few more using "Modern Capeskin" instead. My aim here is to try to impart some knowledge so that people can tell the difference. When you get the genuine Capeskin in your hands, you will be able to tell by the feel and weight. It is a lot less dense then other leathers which gives it an almost sponge like texture. This is far different then the thin sheepskin commonly being used. Even though Cape is a type of sheep, the hide is very different.
 

Griffon_301

Well-Known Member
On a completely off topic note...what patch is thatnin the last picture? The red dragon looks awesome...
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Hey Alan, yes we always have used Capeskin. Our older hide like you have does not have as much grain as our current hides but is still thicker than the common Sheepskin. Also it has the soft spongy type feel to it. We would still be offering that hide as an option but it was discontinued by the tanner.

Regards,
Jay
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
My father raises the haired sheep in the US. They actually shed themselves and do not need sheared like regular sheep. They also have fat tails that store water like camels for living in dry conditions.

Wow that is really cool and some interesting facts! The tail thing makes sense to combat the So African heat. Nice to have someone that has firsthand experience with Cape Sheep.
You know it is documented that one of the contractors made some of the first test A-1 jackets out of Domestic US grown Capeskin. Research shows that the contract jackets were made mostly from South African Cape Sheep.
Thanks for your comments!
 
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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Great bit of information Jay!
Thank you... and I hope you’re on the mend and doing better.
Cheers
 
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Julius

Active Member
I 've done some reading and have asked around about this. Unfortunately, what you try to label as capeskin is nothing more than shrunken lambskin.


I am sorry.

The real capeskin does not only have the grain texture shown in your photos, which can easily be faked by the tanneries, but it also has some straight line bubble marks called ribbiness that run across the skins, which cannot be faked by the tanneries.

You can see those if you look at the below photo on the sleeve at the pocket button level.




Annex%20-%20Grant,%20Cary%20(Only%20Angels%20Have%20Wings)_05.jpg



So unless you show us some of that, I am sorry but I don't buy it.
 
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Persimmon

Well-Known Member
I 've done some reading and have asked around about this. Unfortunately, what you try to label as capeskin is nothing more than shrunken lambskin.


I am sorry.

The real capeskin does not only have the grain texture shown in your photos, which can easily be faked by the tanneries, but it also has some straight line bubble marks called ribbiness that run across the skins, which cannot be faked by the tanneries.

You can see those if you look at the below photo on the sleeve at the pocket button level.




Annex%20-%20Grant,%20Cary%20(Only%20Angels%20Have%20Wings)_05.jpg



So unless you show us some of that, I am sorry but I don't buy it.

Interesting.
What books have you read. Or are they research documents.

Can you supply a list so we can all be as clever and knowledgable please.
Would love to read up on this.

Also. Who have you asked.
Can you offer contact info on these Capeskin experts please.

And just to confirm that EVERY Capeskin sheep must have, when they are killed and their skin is created into a jacket, these straight line bubble marks running across called ribbiness otherwise it’s fake news and these items are just false Capeskin ?
 
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Julius

Active Member
Also FYI capeskin is NOT coming from the hairy fat tail sheep. It's coming from an entirely different breed of sheep.

I got the info from another repro maker who refers the US Government as his source. They showed me the relevant pages from a 1930s report which gives exact info. But they made me promise not to reveal anything because, as they said, then every other maker and their dog will go buy and start offering the correct leather, which is not what they want. They said they prefer to let the other makers embarrass themselves a little longer and then they will publish the report in their website when it gets updated later this year.
 

Persimmon

Well-Known Member
Also FYI capeskin is NOT coming from the hairy fat tail sheep. It's coming from an entirely different breed of sheep.

I got the info from another repro maker who refers the US Government as his source. They showed me the relevant pages from a 1930s report which gives exact info. But they made me promise not to reveal anything because, as they said, then every other maker and their dog will go buy and start offering the correct leather, which is not what they want. They said they prefer to let the other makers embarrass themselves a little longer and then they will publish the report in their website when it gets updated later this year.

I am sure other manufactures here ( big or small ) or even representatives of such companies can reply to your pearls of knowledge and information with technical answers etc.

So in summary because of your “ promise of secrecy” ( !!! ) you are happy to allow people to order expensive jackets from manufacturers other than your friendly repro maker even though you know they are in your words ordering incorrectly and are being badly cheated.

I do believe, if all you say is true with such wonderful knowledge I would not want to be selfish and disrespectful to my fellow forum members by behaving in such a manner.
Still that’s just me !
 

Julius

Active Member
No, it's not my business who buys what from where but certainly I am not happy if people buy capeskin that isn't capeskin.

The other repro makers will not comment, you 'll see. They didn't reply when I asked them.

As regards the shrunken lamb, it's been offered by Wested and few others for years, it's already known stuff and old news. Seems every other tannery has it. I find it ridiculous that the OP decided to offer it here as capeskin.

All I can say is caveat emptor. I do mine.
 

silvio76

Well-Known Member
The modern definition of Capeskin in the textile industry includes Sheep, Goat and even Lambskin under the name of Capeskin. What was the original Capeskin made from in the 1920's & 1930's?

Answer: It was a specific breed of hairy sheep.
View attachment 23537


Genuine Capeskin is a leather made from the hide of a breed of long haired sheep that originated on the Cape of Good Hope, South Africa. The breed has been spread to other regions and is now being raised in other places in addition to South Africa. The hide varies a great deal from other types of common sheep skin. It is thicker and much softer in texture. This gives the hide much more flexibility at the same thickness as other leathers and is probably why it was chosen for early flight jackets. It provided protection with the thickness while great flexibility for moving around in the cramped cockpits. The only drawback is that the softness of the leather makes it prone to chipping and less resistant to wear and the elements.


Fake Capeskin in the Industry - Buyer Beware

The confusion about what kind of hide Capeskin is made from has occurred because of the changing standards of the modern textile industry. At some point the modern definition of Capeskin changed to include Common Sheepskin, Lambskin and Goatskin. There are in fact jacket makers out there selling Capeskin that is not made from Cape Sheep but falls under the modern, catch all definition. Usually it is Common Sheepskin being used and the grain is far too smooth. It is understandable whether done by error or on purpose. It is extremely difficult to find tanneries that handle Capeskin, and even harder to find one who can customize the color and grain.

At Headwind Mfg Co we are happy to have a tanner that handles genuine Capeskin and can customize our hides to our specifications.




How Can I Tell If Capeskin is Genuine?

First off Capeskin is far softer and lighter than other leathers of the same thickness. It feels different in the hand, almost like a thick fabric.

Capeskin has several characteristics in the grain that can be identified. The hide can be processed to have a smoother grain or so that a lot of grain shows, but there are two things that should be present regardless of the processing.

1. Very small pore like bumps that run in a line patterns. Similar to lizard scales. They appear in lines almost like fingerprint ridges.
2. Large pillow like bumps. These vary depending on tanning process but should be evident somewhere on the jacket.

Check out the Capeskin below, our Superior Grain Oxblood . It displays the characteristics well. Note the tiny scale like bumps within the larger grain.



An example of a smoother type of Capeskin is our Chestnut color used for the 37J1 & A-1 jackets which generally had a smoother surface. We had this hide specially made for us to match the color and texture of the original jacket. The surface is smoother but the characteristics are still present.
View attachment 23542

View attachment 23543


Here are some examples of original grainy and smoother Capeskin.

View attachment 23546
View attachment 23547 View attachment 23545View attachment 23549
View attachment 23548
View attachment 23550

Note that none of the examples above are completely smooth but have various graining and show the characteristics listed above.
Best Regards,
Jay
Thanks for explanation.
 
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