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Vintage Mouton vs. Regular 'New' Mouton; Differences? Thoughts?

MaydayWei

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone,

I had @Grant's ELC B-10 on my mind for some reason and the thing that stuck out to me the most was his use of vintage mouton.
It is my understanding that vintage mouton is preferable in a high-end repro (after all, Sheeley, BK, and GW all offer real vintage mouton options)...
But really, where does the true difference lie? Would someone mind explaining to me the desirability of vintage mouton relative to 'new' mouton.

On a side (but related) note, what qualifies mouton as 'vintage' mouton'?
Surely, a 1960s mouton on a refurbished 50s USN jacket is no more authentic than 80s mouton mouton on that same jacket; after all, neither mouton comes from the same era as the 50s USN jacket.
Yet, equally as obviously, both the hypothetical 60s and 80s mouton would indeed be considered 'vintage' mouton.
I would think that vintage mouton is relatively rare, such that say a GW M-422A repro would not being using 40s WWII-age mouton; or would I be incorrect to think that?
It would be incredible if BK, GW, or Sheeley actually used period-accurate mouton (i.e. only 40s mouton for a 40s M-422A or only late 50s mouton for an early 7823(AER) contract G-1)
 

dinomartino1

Well-Known Member
I don't know where anybody is going to find 40s or 50s mouton, as far as I know GW and the others use mouton off vintage coats and who knows what year they where made.
I can't see how it makes any difference if its the same colour and length etc.
 

Brylcreemer

Active Member
One of my 50's Hercules G1 civvy jackets is mint and still has its original mouton - the fur on it is pin-straight and continues to be regardless of being exposed to water.

Every other (contemporary produced) mouton that I have irreversibly curls and goes a bit fuzzy after getting wet for the first - sometimes second - time. I actually like this effect, but the contrast between the two is very clear.

I failed my science GCSEs miserably, but if I was to hazard a guess, I imagine the process that they used back in the day to transform wool into 'mouton' used stronger, more noxious chemicals (perhaps not permitted in modern day?). Though, I haven't read anything to back this up - it's a complete guess.
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member

This is what Goodwear and others use, to this day I believe,
Aero used the same thing in the early days, we sold hundreds of these coats in The Thrift Shop so we had plenty over
Approx 20 collarscan be cut out of a long coat, most were long
VERY economical, all the thin areas were removed before making so very little waste
Maybe £2 a collar as opposed to £30+ new today

Only down side is seperation of wool from pelt, pretty rare considering, and the more than occasional honk of age, rag yard or stale perfume

Nerver noticed any great difference between modern new and good used
 
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