Type A-2 How they were made in 1942 and why the anomalies

[Ken at Aero Leather]

This should go a long way toward explaining the differences in the same size of the sampe contract, no matter which contract

How an A-2 production line would/could/should have been set up. Variation would occur from one factory to another and I’ve only given this half an hours thought

Team would work on one size & style for a whole day or week to avoid mixing of panel pieces/sizes


STAGE 1 Lining material is laid up and cut in bulk, about 10-12 inches in height is usual, slippery cloth less, stable cloth more, at least 100 linings in one go

STAGE 2 Full set of leather jacket panels are cut, no matching required, tightest leather saving panel positions chosen

STAGE 3 Pieces are sorted into lots per job. Collar pieces, pocket pieces and epaulettes separated for studding folding hammering (Best done during cutting) Bottom tabs and zipper facing go with lining pieces

STAGE 4 Lining sewn together and label fitted by single operative Zipper would be best fitted at this point or by separate operator as a separate job dependand on skill of lining machinist

STAGE 5 Fronts reunited with studded pocket backs, prepared pockets and epaulettes These are fitted to fronts

STAGE 6 Finished Fronts reunited with back and sleeve pieces all seven pieces Joined together to create shell

STAGE 7 Top Collar and studded back collar pieces reunited, sewn together top stitched and fitted to shell, lining joined at the neck and Hanger Tab fitted

STAGE 8 Pre-made ready to use Knitted waistband & cuffs fitted and front edges closed Jacket passed on inside out

STAGE 9 Body is pulled through the open sleeve lining seam and prepared for top stitch

STAGE 10 Final sewing stage Top Stitch hem to hem. Zip top stitch and closing seam on sleeve completed

STAGE 11 Bottom Studs fitted to collar, throat hooks fitted

STAGE 12 QC



ADVANTAGES

Repetition leads to speed. Each of these jobs would be done by a particular person, each should take on average 5 minutes, some more, cutting for instance, some less, turning through, studding but One hour per jacket !or 12 jackets an hour from the team sounds about right, also works out re 1942 average wages and contract numbers in time filled all discussed on a previous thread. A few days run would be needed to see where the best balance of time could be fine tuned (One operative on quick unskilled jobs doing double jackets, stage 9 ?) Fastest worker on longest job etc. (Stage 8? I’ve seen more variation on this than most stages, some folk are very quick at this job) Total time saved would be between 30 mins to an hour on a single operative working flat out on a whole jacket

DRAWBACKS

Repetition leads to sloppiness. The final jacket is unlikely to comprise of the set of panel pieces that were cut together at the start, hence mismatching commonly found

One operative having a day off or an off day can really screw things up

 

[ZuZu]

Is this you just speculating? I suggest that you actually go back and LOOK at the details of the various contracts you copy. Especially the AEROS! Look carefully- get those little details right- completely change your sewing machines or needles or settings or whatever- and finally actually make a pattern from an original jacket! Then hire a patternmaker to size up or down and try to do it WW2 style as much as possible. An Aero is more than just square pocket corners and a Bronco is much more than just angled pocket corners. Your operation is probably the closest to an actual factory- use that to your advantage and try to make something that looks factory made in WW2. Live up to that Aero name!

 

[ausreenactor]

Is this you just speculating? I suggest that you actually go back and LOOK at the details of the various contracts you copy. Especially the AEROS! Look carefully- get those little details right- completely change your sewing machines or needles or settings or whatever- and finally actually make a pattern from an original jacket! Then hire a patternmaker to size up or down and try to do it WW2 style as much as possible. An Aero is more than just square pocket corners and a Bronco is much more than just angled pocket corners. Your operation is probably the closest to an actual factory- use that to your advantage and try to make something that looks factory made in WW2. Live up to that Aero name!

Would hazard a guess Ken and the crew have pumped out more jackets than Aero did during the war. The customers keep coming back? And they're always right. And there a lots if them!

 

[foster]

Would hazard a guess Ken and the crew have pumped out more jackets than Aero did during the war.

The wartime contracts of 15142 and 18775 were 100,000 jackets. That's a lot of jackets, and I didn't even count the contracts from prior to Dec 7, 1941.

 

[John Lever]

I doubt many or any jackets were bespoke during WW2. It was mass production on an industrial scale, so what Ken is saying makes sense.

 

[ZuZu]

Whatever Ken is saying may make sense as far as that does anyone any good- it has nothing to do with repro jackets today! What is sad is that the company bearing the name of Aero makes such a mediocre representation of the original Aero- missing details, weird patterns and horrible sewing. I honestly think that an honest reappraisal could lead to a great Aero copy. Look and see...

 

[ZuZu]

I doubt many or any jackets were bespoke during WW2. It was mass production on an industrial scale, so what Ken is saying makes sense.

Yes yes- no bespoke jackets! They were still well made and had a certain look! Repro companies IMO should be attempting forgeries of the original- not "improvements". The "mistakes" present on originals were just normal acceptable byproducts of industrial production- the art of a repro maker today is to capture the look of an original. Look at a pair of vintage Levis- you'll see the same kind of "mistakes" etc.

 

[B-Man2]

Yes yes- no bespoke jackets! They were still well made and had a certain look! Repro companies IMO should be attempting forgeries of the original- not "improvements". The "mistakes" present on originals were just normal acceptable byproducts of industrial production- the art of a repro maker today is to capture the look of an original. Look at a pair of vintage Levis- you'll see the same kind of "mistakes" etc.

Just out of curiosity .. In your opinion who would you say makes the most authentic and closest to the original contract repro A2 today? The top number one company.

 

[John Lever]

Don't think Aero would consider themselves a repro company. They seem to specialise in their own civi designs.

 

[robrinay]

Is this you just speculating? I suggest that you actually go back and LOOK at the details of the various contracts you copy. Especially the AEROS! Look carefully- get those little details right- completely change your sewing machines or needles or settings or whatever- and finally actually make a pattern from an original jacket! Then hire a patternmaker to size up or down and try to do it WW2 style as much as possible. An Aero is more than just square pocket corners and a Bronco is much more than just angled pocket corners. Your operation is probably the closest to an actual factory- use that to your advantage and try to make something that looks factory made in WW2. Live up to that Aero name!

I could be wrong and I’m pretty sure you’ll clarify, but to me it just looks like you are being rude and confrontational unnecessarily. What does ‘how Aero Leather make their A2’s’ have to do with this thread which is clearly about how wartime A2’s may have been made.

 

[Srahimian24]

I think this is because Aero came under some fire in a few earlier threads about how their repro A2's missed the mark as far as being accurate to how originals were made regarding the more minor details. And Aero immediately got on the defensive so this does seem like Aero is trying to in a sense "justify" why their jackets are made the way they are compared to wartime originals. Just my observation, take it as you will.

 

[ZuZu]

Just out of curiosity .. In your opinion who would you say makes the most authentic and closest to the original contract repro A2 today? The top number one company.

It is without a doubt Good Wear. Given the right set of variables some GWs will pass as originals. GW really does take apart jackets and makes patterns from them. No one in the world including the Japanese is more obsessed with detail and the vagaries of sewing construction.

 

[ZuZu]

My badmouthing Aero of Scotland is born of frustration not ill will. With all the resources available only stubborn refusal to admit problems keeps AoS jackets from being great repros

 

[robrinay]

Ah so this is about that old chestnut - production line jackets varying from the original spec and design and whether the variations (or as some see them faults),should be reproduced today or whether the original specs and designs should be adhered to? Fair enough it’ll run and run as it always does.

 

[ZuZu]

Similar to Lost Worlds and the 30-415 thing. That and the weird pocket placement. Ken claims to know what the process was in a WW2 factory but his final products (in WW2 A-2s) look not very close and his factory techniques create their own problems especially with stitching.

 

[John Lever]

Do Aero say they make the most accurate A2 ?

 

[ZuZu]

Do Aero say they make the most accurate A2 ?

Kind of. From reading their website one gets the impression they’ve taken apart jackets and copied them closely. Even with the inaccurate details I think their worst failing right now is that brutal stitching.

 

[John Lever]

Interesting opinion

 

[ZuZu]

Interesting opinion

The inaccurate details are a FACT. The ugly Sewing can also be observed. Opinion?

 

[John Lever]

Good answer !
What is it the Americans say ? Give Aero a break !
Just a small British family business.