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Sheeley's Pending 1930s Utility Jacket Builds

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Best name ever for a jacket model. I love it. True art.

As seen here

4-21-2008-15.jpg


While not a particularly good photo the squadron (VA-55 Warhorses with FJ Fury in the background) is seen below. Father is seen wearing the checkered arm band denoting the OD.

9-2-2008-03.jpg


This pic was taken in 1958. Not long after transitioning from the the propeller driven AD Skyraider to the FJ Fury.

The USN Fury came equipped with 20 mm cannons. Not the .50 cals and more powerful engines than used on the F-86 Sabre jet and USAF equivalent.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Please see another Sheeley Bros. model jacket. Created using my Edgewater pattern and for this particular model now known as the Maverick.

The jacket's outer shell is a dark brown colored horse hide and stitched with OD colored thread. Japanese made Talon marked fantail grommet and ball and chain zips. In this case, likened to the Japanese jacket maker Freewheelers Mulholland model jacket.

My Maverick jacket is comparable to that used by Freewheelers in their overall design. However, the Maverick is upgraded.

Sheeley Bros Edgewater Pattern .jpg


This jacket has two inside and three outside pockets. The map/pistol pocket (carry capable) and one of the few same designs employed by Monarch on their USN type pre War M-422 seen on this jacket.

Opned.jpg


This jacket is an upgraded version. Note that the sleeves were done using the more time consuming but visually pleasing French type seams to both the upper and lower seams. Done in keeping with the 1930's vintage look using the same machine (allowing for sleeves to be stitched in the cylinder form) makers utilized to create their jackets back in the day.

For added comfort and mobility the sleeves are inset and rotated to include being half gusseted. An upgrade once seen on early (upgraded) Flying Togs Northeaster M/C jackets. For the most part done away with by the majority of the one time premier vintage jacket makers by post WW-2.

Reverse View .jpg


French seams were utilized throughout much of this jacket's construction. Most notably, there are advantages to using French seams. A French seamed shoulder allows for the absolute most comfortable (non point loading) results bar none.

Shoulder Seam & Collar View .jpg


All outside pockets done with zip closure and mole skin fabric interior. No glue was used to create these pockets and all are stitched into place both inside and out. All top stitch work is integral to the overall pocket design.

Side Seam.jpg


Inside welted pocket & leather interfacing.

Inside Welted Pocket.jpg


Off Set Map pocket and interfacing construction techniques borrowed from the pre War Monarch M-422, buttonholed cuffs and vintage Colt MFG buttons.

Interfacing & Inside Map  Pocket jpg.jpg


Note the bar tacked leather hanger.

Sheeley Bros.jpg


This entire jacket was created by using no less than 5 different machines that I have on hand dedicated to jacket construction.

Look forward to a historically correct mid 1930's motor cycle type jacket using this same pattern in the near future.

Cheers, Dave
 
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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Dave
Outstanding work ….Very impressive . When you refer to your 1930s MC jackets are you talking about a USA styled MC jacket or the French Cyclist Jacket that most know as a Luftwaffe jacket ? The reason I’m asking is that from the photos of your jacket above , it doesn’t look like it would take much to turn that into an accurate repro of a French Cyclist or Luftwaffe jacket .
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi Burt,

The M/C jacket I am referring to and in the process of building is related to this same Edgewater pattern. Made in the USA between the early 1930's and when the zipper began to be commonly used for closure into the early 1940's.
My model for this pending jacket was seen several years ago. That original (police) M/C jacket sold on eBay before I could bid. I have not seen one ever before or since.

Made by one of the the exact same makers I used to derive my overall pattern.

That original police M/C jacket was made here in the USA & seen below.
Police Motor Cycle Jacket.jpg


That same police M/C jacket seen above dates between 1935 and 1937. For the most part this pending jacket is simply a belted version of my Maverick jacket.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Recently lucked up on a jacket box that would have been originally included with the sale of one of the same work jackets that I utilized to derive my Sheeley Bros. patterns. The box is dated to 1936 with X-MAS stamps.

The box's cover features numerous illustrations depicting various model jackets suited for a given activity. That particular image depicting an aviation related type jacket seen below is among my more favorite. Something to include with one of my future builds.

Aviator Type Jacket.jpg


It is hard to believe that something as potentially fragile as a paper box that advertised these jacket's uses has survived some 86 years and remains in such great shape today.


Cheers, Dave
 
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Nickb123

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Please see another Sheeley Bros. model jacket. Created using my Edgewater pattern and for this particular model now known as the Maverick.

The jacket's outer shell is a dark brown colored horse hide and stitched with OD colored thread. Japanese made Talon marked fantail grommet and ball and chain zips. In this case, likened to the Japanese jacket maker Freewheelers Mulholland model jacket.

My Maverick jacket is comparable to that used by Freewheelers in their overall design. However, the Maverick is upgraded.

View attachment 74442

This jacket has two inside and three outside pockets. The map/pistol pocket (carry capable) and one of the few same designs employed by Monarch on their USN type pre War M-422 seen on this jacket.

View attachment 74444

This jacket is an upgraded version. Note that the sleeves were done using the more time consuming but visually pleasing French type seams to both the upper and lower seams. Done in keeping with the 1930's vintage look using the same machine (allowing for sleeves to be stitched in the cylinder form) makers utilized to create their jackets back in the day.

For added comfort and mobility the sleeves are inset and rotated to include being half gusseted. An upgrade once seen on early (upgraded) Flying Togs Northeaster M/C jackets. For the most part done away with by the majority of the one time premier vintage jacket makers by post WW-2.

View attachment 74450

French seams were utilized throughout much of this jacket's construction. Most notably, there are advantages to using French seams. A French seamed shoulder allows for the absolute most comfortable (non point loading) results bar none.

View attachment 74458

All outside pockets done with zip closure and mole skin fabric interior. No glue was used to create these pockets and all are stitched into place both inside and out. All top stitch work is integral to the overall pocket design.

View attachment 74448

Inside welted pocket & leather interfacing.

View attachment 74452

Off Set Map pocket and interfacing construction techniques borrowed from the pre War Monarch M-422, buttonholed cuffs and vintage Colt MFG buttons.

View attachment 74472

Note the bar tacked leather hanger.

View attachment 74451

This entire jacket was created by using no less than 5 different machines that I have on hand dedicated to jacket construction.

Look forward to a historically correct mid 1930's motor cycle type jacket using this same pattern in the near future.

Cheers, Dave

That’s just fabulous.
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Just completed another shawl collared campus type jacket. Much like my original jacket, done in goat hide and unlined.

Sheeley Bros.jpg
Half Opened Sheeley Bros. Campus Jacket .jpg



Sheeley Bros. Size 36 Back Panel .jpg


These two jackets share the exact same overall pattern. The difference being a change up in the closure, collar, pockets, lower belt and gusset configuration.

Campus Jacket Comparison.jpg



Cheers, Dave
 
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Nickb123

Well-Known Member

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi Nick,

I'm fairly certain that my original 1932/1934 model jacket also came from the factory with OD colored thread. There remains a hint of green to the thread in the non exposed areas. Now for the most part completely faded. I was simply following the leader.

Scully Size 38.jpg


If you look closely you can still see that faint hint of green color to the thread on my original russet colored 1932/1934 goat hide jacket.

1932 Scully Talon Zipper.jpg


That is Henry Ford with Douglas "Wrong Way" Corrigan. Doug is wearing that exact same jacket as seen above.

Scully Jacket & Henry Ford.jpg


As it goes, back in the day my same goat hide jacket was utilized as a flight jacket.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Please see another unlined Sheeley Bros. shawl collared jacket. This time done using horse hide. Both this horse and russet goat hide slash pocket stitch work is upgraded.

Sheeley Size 36 HH Shawl Collar Jacket .jpg


The sleeves on this Campus jacket are inset and rotated. Which include half gussets. The half gussets on the sleeves are just visible. They might not look it but when it comes to movement they give the wearer an advantage. Again consistent with upgraded 1930's work jackets.

Horse Hide Shawl Collar Reverse View.jpg


Note the sleeve end set up.

Half Opened Horse Hide Shawl Collar Jacket .jpg


That type of sleeve end is typical for 1930's a leather work jacket design.

Right Side Opened HH Shawl Collar Jacket .jpg


The buttons I use on my jackets are vintage. All of which I have been collecting for years in anticipation of my button up type jacket builds. Original Colt Mfg type are an optional upgrade and super cool.

Sheeley Bros Opened Shawl Collar Jacket.jpg


My horse and goat hide unlined shawl collar Sheeley Bros. jackets The horse hide jacket is a size 36 and smaller of the two. The russet colored goat hide jacket is is more in line with a size 38.

Horse And Goat Hide Shawl Jackets .jpg



More to come.

Cheers, Dave
 
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