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Sheeley's Pending 1930s Utility Jacket Builds

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
HI All,

I wanted to share a pic of my original 1930's civilian utility/work jackets. In this case, from a now rarely seen yet one time prolific vintage jacket maker. Currently, all part of my personal collection and a quick glimpse of things to come.

All were sourced over a the past couple of years. As it is my intention to begin doing a few versions of my own using this same makers jacket design over the course of this coming Summer.

My Scully Jackets.jpg



You are looking at three separate model jackets from the four originals that I now own from this same vintage jacket maker. All are from various models and sized from 36 through 48. The earliest dates 1932 and the latest 1939.

The design for this particular jacket is quite comfortable. Beyond innovative for it's time and remains so today. Among the many interesting elements that these same jackets originally came equipped with include a highly functional half gusseted sleeve design.

In addition, this same jacket could have come equipped with slash hand warming pockets verses the patch pockets as seen equipped with my originals. Either lined or non lined. While all lined models came with an interior welted pocket. Also, seen done as early M/C type jackets.

For closure I've seen this same make jacket done as a button down or zipped. The earlier models zipped jackets came equipped with grommet type while the more modern and latest model run with this same pattern design from this same maker ended with the M-39 type Talon zipper at the on set of WW-2.

Since acquiring these jackets I have spent many weeks perfecting it's patterns. Done by doing both dissections & careful thorough detailed studies of all aspects. As the sleeve set up is quite complicated. Subsequently allowing me to correctly duplicate this design for all sizes from 36 through 52.

As with all of my builds nothing has been left to chance. So please look forward to me marketing this particular vintage maker's design jacket under SHEELEY BROS.


Cheers, Dave
 
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steve u.

Active Member
Dave,
I'll be watching closely ...Can't wait to see how these jackets turn out.
Great additions to your line.
steve u.
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi Steve,

This is going to be great jacket. It will be my most affordable jacket build and still retain lots of bells & whistles.

Cheers, Dave
 
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steve u.

Active Member
Your putting my marriage in jeopardy.
Just another reason I wish I was ten years younger.
steve;)
 
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steve u.

Active Member
Dave,
What's your price (more or less) for one of these beauties with slash hand warming pockets in horsehide?
steve
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Yes, I've ordered and received the hides that I have earmarked for those pending builds.

However, I've currently turned my attention to another project. Mainly finishing off the restoration of my M-422 Switlik.

I'll get to those 1930s jackets immediately thereafter.

Cheers, Dave
 
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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I turned my attention to finishing off the restoration of my M-422 Switlik. I'll get to my 1930s jackets immediately thereafter.
Hi Dave
Any thoughts on what the prices might be for the 1930s jackets ? Or is it too early to say at this point.
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Too soon to tell but it will no doubt be the most reasonably priced jacket build I will have made to date and my answer to the A-2.

Originally done using goat hide or horse hide. The earliest original and non lined one from within my collection is in fact a russet colored goat

Scully Jacket.jpg

Note the grommet type brass Talon zip was done by the factory without rivets. This particular jacket dates the early 1930's and the oldest among my collection.

The jacket is a simple design yet has plenty of bells and whistles. As the sleeves originally came with half gussets. Either lined or non lined. On the lined jackets it was fitted with an internal welted pocket. In addition either slash or patch pockets were used.

This jacket was also correct with either with a Hookless type grommet or M-39 type Talon zip and another option to consider.


Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Almost there! Expect to see my prototype next month. As I have just sourced all my needed hardware and last of the items to make this happen.

Also, see here for related info https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/douglas-“wrong-way”-corrigan.24888/ .

In the mean time see some of the hides I have had made and now ear marked for this particular build.

Matching HIdes .jpg


Sheeley Work Jacket HIde Comparison.jpg


It may be hard to tell from the pix but the jacket seen in the upper pic is done in a slightly darker colored russet than the lower. I now have both colors available in goat. To include chocolate brown and black.

In addition horse hide in black, russet and brown is also available.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi,

See the side cinch hardware I sourced for this build.

hARDWARE COMPARISON 1.jpg


HARDWARE COMPARISON 2.jpg


By he way, I believe that (good) goat hide holds up better than most horse hides. Albeit, I've got a decent original late 1920s or early 1930s Monarch horse hide jacket, But it needs to have several panels replaced.

All of which I will do given time.

Cheers, Dave
 
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B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Dave
I think that’s going to look outstanding when you finish putting it together. Looking forward to seeing the prototype.
 

Nnatalie

Well-Known Member
Ditto, looking forward to seeing how the jacket turns out!

The waist on the leftmost one is interesting--seems like most I see either have a wider waistband, like your other two, or they just don't have a separate waist-piece. Pocket placement on top of the seam on the middle one is quite interesting as well. It's great to see civilian jackets in the flesh instead of just in catalog/newspaper illustrations or old photos that don't always show detail well!
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Now after several years in the making please see the first two models that have been completed. More are in the works & I am planing to do at least three more models using this same basic pattern. All of which I have been developing to create my 1930s work jacket as seen here.

I call this my EDGEWATER pattern. Named after my late father's call name when he first broke the sound barrier flying an FJ-Fury in 1958.

Going forward I will use my Sheeley Bros. label for these builds using my Edgewater pattern.

In this case, both are goat hide. One done as a zip and the other a button up shawl collar. However, I have horse hide versions in the works.

012.jpg

Note the bar tacked leather hangers. The same machine used by Bronco on their WW-2 model A-2 jackets and one of the many details I now offer with my Edgewater model jackets.
Sheeley Bros. Button Up And Zip UP Collar Comparisons.jpg


These jackets have a slightly different collar set up.

Sheely Bros Zip Up Lapel.jpg


Simple back panel. Note the upgraded half gusseted sleeves. These half gussets offer the wear a mobility advantage and lend the jacket a seldom seen unique over all look.

Back Panel.jpg


I have been accumulating original Talon M-39 Straight (Hersey Bar) sliders for years. Now being used for this build. In this case, to upgrade the repro Talon zip assemblies. However, upgraded zips are available.

Repro M-39 Talon With Triple Marked Straight Bar Slider.jpg


016.jpg


Examples of my button hole work using my vintage Reece 101. A process that took me years of trial and error to get my buttonholes to this level. Especially when using soft pliable goat hides as seen used on theses particular Sheeley Bros jackets.

Sheeley Bros Edgewater Button Up Button Holes jpg.jpg


These jackets are exceedingly comfortable an fairly well appointed.

Jere's Button Up Right Side Opened jpg.jpg


Those fisheye buttons used here are late 1930s through the 1940s vintage and backed. Most notably hand stitched by me and will not come off.

Look forward to some horse hide versions!

Cheers, Dave
 
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