Sheeley's Monarch 30's aviator with meandering zip

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Not long ago I did an off set aviator type jacket for the Silver Surfer. At that time the Surfer & I worked out the details together to come up with the design for that triple pleated yoke back panel. That jacket was patterned using my vintage Monarch MFG. jackets and those results can be seen directly below.

Triple Pleated Yoke Back Monarch.jpg


As compared to Steve's meandering zip jacket, the front of Victor's has is a more simple off set zip design.


Monarch Aviator.jpg


Monarch Collar Lapels Out.jpg


Subsequent to building Victors jacket I was fortunate to have been able to source a beyond rare original Monarch M/C with the half gusseted sleeves. Most notably, there is nothing like having an original jacket in hand to derive a 100% correct pattern. Otherwise and I maintain you are fooling your self if you think that a design can truly be duplicated correctly if simply taken from a picture.

Since that time I have begun to incorporate that half gusseted sleeve set up (using my original vintage jacket's designs) with this same build. All of which really sets my jackets off nicely.

Another of those off set zipped jackets is seen below. Note that like both Victor's & Steve's build it was done with French type seams complete. Exactly as Monarch MFG would have done back in the day. But in this next example the sleeves were done with the addition of half gussets and a vintage option once utilized on the more premier jackets from back in the day. Furthermore, It might not look it but the next example seen below was for a wide bodied big boy & sized as a 50/52 LONG.
Triple Pleated Half Belt With Sleeve Gussets.jpg


Most notably, I have sourced and now exclusively use the exact machine Monarch MFG. used back in the day to create their hallmark sleeve seams. That machine allows me to do double stitch work in a cylinder (sleeve) form and just as was done back in the day.

As a result & just like vintage Monarch MFG jackets, my reproduction jacket's sleeves are done with both the inner and outer French type seams. A construction technique done by those vintage jacket makers & a procedure which is nearly impossible to do without that same machine.

Cheers, Dave
 
Last edited:

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Not long ago I did an off set aviator type jacket for the Silver Surfer. At that time the Surfer & I worked out the details together to come up with the design for that triple pleated yoke back panel. That jacket was patterned using my vintage Monarch MFG. jackets and is seen below.

View attachment 43208

As compared to Steve's meandering zip jacket, the front of Victor's has is a more simple off set zip design.


View attachment 43210

View attachment 43211

Subsequent to building Victors jacket I was fortunate to have been able to source a beyond rare original Monarch M/C with the half gussets. Most notably, there is nothing like having an original jacket in hand to derive a 100% correct pattern. Otherwise and I maintain you are fooling your self if you think that a design can be correctly duplicated if simply taken from a picture.

Since that time have added that half gusseted sleeve set up (using my original vintage jacket's design) with this same build. All of which really sets my jackets off nicely.

Another of those off set zipped jackets is seen below. Note that like both Victor's & Steve's build it was done with French type seams complete. Exactly as Monarch MFG would have done back in the day. But in this next example the sleeves were done with the addition of half gussets and a vintage option for premier jackets from back in the day. Furthermore, It might not look it but the next example seen below was for a big boy & sized as a 50 or 52 LONG.
View attachment 43212

Most notably, I have sourced and now exclusively use the exact machine Monarch MFG used back in the day to create their sleeves. That machine allows me to stitch cylinders and just as was done back in the day

As a result & just like vintage Monarch MFG jackets. my jackets can be done with both the inner and outer sleeve seams with French seams. A feat which is nearly impossible otherwise.

Cheers, Dave
On the exact machine.... amazing!
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi Couchy,

Yes, the same double needle machine as used by Monarch back in the day. In addition, the exact same keyhole button hole machine used back in the day.

See some examples (taken from my latest build) of the button hole machine's handy work.

As seen unbuttoned.

Unbuttoned Cuff.jpg


& Buttoned.
Buttoned Cuff.jpg


To say the least using those old machines is an art on to it's self just keeping that button hole machine correctly adjusted and running.

Cheers, Dave
 
Last edited:

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Hi Couchy,

Yes, the same double needle machine as used by Monarch back in the day. In addition, the exact same keyhole button hole machine used back in the day.

See some examples (taken from my latest build) of the button hole machine's handy work.

As seen unbuttoned.

View attachment 43217

& Buttoned.
View attachment 43216

To say the least using those old machines is an art on to it's self just keeping that button hole machine correctly adjusted and running.

Cheers, Dave
Speechless.... amazing you got your talented mitts on it.
 
Top