Sheeley's Monarch 30's aviator with meandering zip

steve u.

Member
MONARCH 30's AVIATOR

Came home early to get jacket.
Better than I hoped for or imagined.
Zipper works great. Perfect in every way.
Darker in hand. Fit pic's later.
steve..
 

busdrivermike

Well-Known Member
That mouton collar is amazing, :cool: so much so I’m asking Shawn at fivestar
To make one for the motorcycle jacket he is remaking for me.
What is the length of that jacket ? 25”
 

steve u.

Member
BusdriverMike,
25 and 1/2" I think..
I have a Mouton(detachable) on my Lost Worlds TEST also.
I'll P.M. you a pic' of that one.
 

busdrivermike

Well-Known Member
That’s the exact measurement I gave Shawn for my motorcycle jacket
25.5 , I have a 26.5 jacket that just covers the jeans pockets, feels
Too long and sloppy, another that’s 24 just goes to the bottom on the belt
Feels too short for riding, so 25.5 puts it right in the Goldilocks zone.
 

bazelot

Well-Known Member
Dave is a magician. I didn't know about that detachable collar, it looks very seamless, impossible to tell it is detachable...
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

I thought I would follow up on Steve's thread with the original jacket I used to pattern his jacket. In addition, I just completed one of these same off set zip jackets. Only in this case my latest reproduction more closely followed the original. As it's front panel was done using multiple panels and I wanted to add it to this thread for comparison purposes.

That original multi paneled meandering zip California Sportswear jacket (as seen below & in a diminutive size) used to pattern both Steve's & my latest meandering zip jacket as featured in this thread was more than likely made between 1939 and 1941. Most notably, this pattern jacket has the same model brass M-39 seen used by W&G for their pre War M-422 jackets. Which helped to appropriately date this jacket.

Meandering Zip Aviator.jpg

Note the motor cycle style zip sleeves. In addition, this original jacket is in fact goathide.

My latest off set meandering zip jacket more closely duplicates the original with it's multiple front panels as seen above. The fact that this front panel is done with multiple panels adjacent to the zip complicates the build.

Not unlike Steve's, I utilized the Monarch pattern verses the California Sportswear's for the build. Moreover, I believe the Monarch pattern is an up grade. That same upgrade seen on my reproduction jackets includes the Monarch MFG. type half gusset sleeves. Above all I'm fortunate to have found an original early Monarch MFG. motor cycle jacket which was equipped with the same up graded sleeves. That beyond rare jacket is now in my personal collection & a permanent reference. As a result there is no guess work with my jackets.

Although rarely seen, Monarch MFG was not the only early motor cycle jacket maker who utilized this same half gusset type sleeve. More often than not only found on early upgraded motor cycle jackets. As they are perfect for civilian style jackets and an element that makes these jackets so great. Furthermore, these same upgraded sleeves with half gussets were once found on what is arguably the most premier motor cycle jackets ever made. That premier jacket is the early upgraded Beck Northeaster Flying Togs. Considered by most to be the holly grail of motor cycle jackets.

Multi Paneled Meandering Off Set Zip 1.jpg


This reproduction multi paneled off set meandering zip jacket's hide is a light russet colored heavy 3 oz vegetable tanned goat hide. The lining is a light weight twill,

For those members living in the UK, if you pay attention you might see this same jacket flying down the road of London!

Cheers, Dave
 
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steve u.

Member
Dave,
Simply OUTSTANDING!
steve
Edit: I wish I would have have bought your jacket first..The Lost Worlds is not going to be worn much from now on.
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Another jacket that is similar to Steve's. In this case, done with a chocolate colored horse hide. Again, using that same triple pleated yoke back panel. However, done using a completely different front and interim (side) panels.

In this case, modeled after Freewheelers of Japan Caboose jacket. It's overall design was borrowed from one of my Monarch civilian model jackets which mirrored the Caboose's basic overall design. That Caboose jacket design is not a true HB & as a result does not have quite the same aggressive cut. Therein a slightly more loose & less restrictive feel when worn.

Please note the French seams complete to include the inner sleeve seams and half gusset & exactly as done back in the day by Monarch MFG for their late 1930s to early 1940s rarely seen M/C jackets. Not to mention, those same half gussets were also utilized by Beck Northeaster Flying Togs premier late 1930s to early War M/C jackets.

Triple PLeated Yoke Back .jpg



From my perspective It helps to invest in original jackets for a correct reference & above all to keep the guess work out of the equation.

Cheers, Dave
 
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ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Another jacket that is similar to Steve's. In this case, done with a chocolate colored horse hide. Again, using that same triple pleated yoke back panel. Please note the French seams complete to include the inner sleeve seams and half gusset & exactly as done back in the day by Monarch MFG for their late 1930s to early 1940s M/C jackets.

Those same half gussets were also utilized by Beck Northeaster Flying Togs premier late 1930s to early War M/C jackets.


View attachment 43165

It helps to invest in original jackets for a correct reference & above all to keep the guess work out of the equation.

Cheers, Dave
That back section is art!
 
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