Sheeley's Horse Hide USN AN-J-3A

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

To see my version of the only horsehide USN intermediate leather flight jacket done for the USN please go here https://www.ebay.com/itm/115165026070.

My original horsehide AN-J-3A as seen here was compared to my same sized original W&G M-422A to derive my patterns. Thereafter compared to my original size 36 through 48 original M-422 & M-422A jackets from within my personal collection as needed.
HH AN-J-3A .jpg



HH W&G AN-J-3A Opened .jpg


HH W&G AN-J-3A.jpg


W&G made plenty of changes to come up with this 288s-35805 pattern. Prior to this final contract they pretty much carried the same design through out all of their M-422, M-422A and AN USN jacket design. Only used on this last USN leather flight jacket contract. All of which increased mobility and curves. In the end, they added more style to this design.

Cheers, Dave
 

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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Good gosh almighty.
The repro looks exactly dead on to the original.
Absolutely stunning.

Yes, the exact same pattern. But graded up from a size 38 to a size 44.

Moreover and not unlike the War era USN Monarch jackets I admire so much, I've not seen much of anything larger with this 288-35805 than a Medium size jacket. The difference being this W&G AN-J-3A had to have been a very limited volume contract and seldom if ever seen.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
Wow! That’s a real piece of art you’ve created with that AN-J-3A repro Dave. Accuracy, attention to detail and the care you put into getting it right. And a USN jacket not in goat. That is something very special you won’t see every (or many) days of the week. Hats off to you for a jacket someone can be really proud of.

Very tempting!
 

Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
ahhhhh, with the red russet knits. for years I thought that only the first star g-1 contract had em. my guess is that a supplier of the knits used an odd dye that faded to a reddish color for this contract, and the star contract...and who's knows, possibly others. I have seen some pix of wwll naval flight jackets with these red russet knits, but have not been able to identify the contract maker. school is open every day.
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

Just picked up another horse hide W&G from their late War 288s-35805 contract seldom seen come available. It looks to be a generously proportioned size 40 & much unlike my other same model and smaller size jacket, a perfect candidate for one of my max effort restorations. Moreover, I like having an original version of those jackets that I reproduce as a model. Above all I like to be able to proof my patterns.

SIZE 40 W&G AN-J-3A .jpg


Look forward to seeing this same jacket totally restored back to it's former glory. Please note, this latest original horse hide AN-J-3A jacket was received missing it's factory label. Once completed this jacket will be sporting one or my reproduction labels.

That approximately 1 mm thick seal brown colored horse hide I use for this build is seen below. A near prefect match to the original.

W&G Horse Hide Comparion .jpg


This jacket was originally built with contrasting colored thread. As seen done on some of my buttonhole work on one of my latest USN flight jacket horse hide creations.

W&G Horsehide Button Hole Work .jpg


As explained earlier in this thread, at fist glance this jacket has the look of an ordinary WW-2 era M-422, M-422A or AN model W&G. Especially when viewed from the front. However and as their final WW-2 era leather flight jacket contract, this model jacket was redesigned. Those design changes may be more visible with my reproduced version and are seen concentrated at the jacket's side and back panel.

W&G Size 44 AN-J-3A 288-35805 Horsehide Jacket_edited-1.jpg


This new back panel design brought the side seam closer to the underarm & allowed for a greater range of motion for the wearer. Note, that among the other changes the leading edge of this model jacket's action back panel is hour glass shaped and an aesthetically pleasing upgrade, not conducive to mass production and not seen utilized in their prior design.

288-25805 HH AN-J-3A Jacket Reverse View.jpg


Same lining interfacing, sleeve assembly, collar & throat latch and pocket design as seen utilized on all previous models.

Size 44 HH W&G Opened .jpg


The mouton I used on this particular build was faded. An upgrade I offer. It began as a dark brown color. To correctly fade a mouton is a process & it took several months to accomplish.

To bring this model build along I had the label and knits specially made. In addition, I recently sourced another minimum order of horse hides to carry out my work and keep up with the demand as related to this same jacket's build.


Cheers, Dave
 
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mulceber

Well-Known Member
Dave, that's spectacular. Has this second HH AN-J-3A led to any refinements in your pattern? :)
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Dave, that's spectacular. Has this second HH AN-J-3A led to any refinements in your pattern? :)
Unfortunately, I have not had the time to dissect this latest jacket to find out. But will be doing so very soon. Especially since that I will be doing so while making it ready for it's restoration.

Fortunately, I have originals in W&G's earlier models in the same two (38 & 40) corresponding sizes as these horse hide W&G's. So I was able to make great comparisons just using my size 38 seen earlier in this same thread. It helps immensely when using both patterns in their perspective sizes. Being able to do that in it's self leaves little room for mistakes.

But I suspect that this latest and larger size 40 jacket will help me hone my horse hide model 288s-35805 pattern. Especially when it comes to correctly grading up into larger sizes.

On the other hand, like in the case of my pair of original M-422 Switlik Parachute & Equipment Co.jackets,
https://www.vintageleatherjackets.org/threads/sheeley-gearing-up-for-m-422-jacket.21595/ it is nearly impossible to get a true pattern without having two jackets to make the necessary comparisons. Especially since Switlik only had one contract and there is nothing else to compare it to. Since I happen to have two of the 247 on hand that were originally made for the USN, that helps out immensely.

What most do not understand, besides having their very own sleeve, collar pocket assembly, wind flap and cut (change from the underarm to the hem at the side seam) that individualizes a particular make, each individual maker also has a setting for the base of the arm pit in relation to the distance from the base of the collar. All set at a particular ratio from one size to the next. Something that makes an immense difference with regards to the feel of the jacket when worn. As the jacket is graded into a larger size that distance increases at that given ratio. Furthermore, all those changes occur according to the individual designer and not to any specification.

When it comes to the arm pit setting each of the three pre War M-422 makers jacket design differs appreciably from one anther. Not to mention, each increase at different rates with a given size change. The Switlik maintained the highest setting. Followed by the Monarch and finally the W&G. Likewise, the W&G is the most loose fitting from among the three M-422 makers complete.

Switlik Pair .jpg


Therefore without having two of those Switlik M-422 jackets (in different sizes) to come up with that grading ratio at the armpit it would make it difficult at best for me to get an accurate pattern otherwise.

Most notably and contrary to opinions from many, I personally believe that attempting to get an accurate design from a photograph is quite impossible. Especially when it comes to a one of a kind jacket. There are just too many variations within the designs between the individual makers and the Switlik M-422 is a perfect example.

Cheers, Dave
 
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