Sheeley Gearing Up For M-422 Jacket

nkang

Well-Known Member
Having just received one of Dave's Sheeley-made jackets today, let me just say that this jacket is the single best jacket I've owned on every dimension (fit, leather, mutton, zipper, etc.). The 12 months in between was completely worth the wait. I'd even wait 24 months or 36 months for it. I tried the jacket quickly on and it fits so comfortably well that I didn't want to take it off at all (this never happened with any other jacket I own).

I'm travelling tomorrow and won't be able to share any photos for the next few weeks, but you can already see from Dave's photos how well-made this beautiful M422 is. Dave's craftsmanship and his sourcing of the materials make the jacket worth every penny you'd put in.

What an amazing experience. Dave is such a great USN jacket artist. Thank you, Dave!
 

nkang

Well-Known Member
@stanier Hi Chris! Dave and I worked on a custom sizing so that the jacket fits me well. If I'm not wrong, almost everything is the same as a standard size 40 from Dave's original except for the sleeves, which are tailored to my arm length. I'm sure an ANJ-3A with Dave will be great (isn't there a review already?)!
 

Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

I'm now finishing up my original size 40 Switlik Parachute and Equipment Co. M-422 jacket restoration.

Switlik Reverse Top Stitched.jpg


In the past this jacket had some of the most amateurish repairs done to it that I've seen to date. All of which really tested my skills and made this particular restoration a true labor of love. Untold time was spent simply diminishing ghost stitches from all previous repairs. The jacket is now presentable again and as a result of my labor regained much of it's original integrity.

Switlik Topstitched Waistband.jpg


I had those reddish brown knits as seem attached specially made to duplicate the originals.

Switlik Topstitched Cuff 2.jpg


After receiving this Switlik M-422 I took this jacket down to it's individual panels. All restitched again using silk thread just as it came from the factory. According to the booklet reviewed by me at the National Archives in Washington D.C. my Switlik jacket was originally delivered to NAS Pensacola, along with less than 250 others in three separate shipments during the first quarter of 1941.

As a result of my work I learned exactly how this jacket was originally constructed & derived the most accurate pattern possible for my future reproductions. This restoration has made me become very well acquainted with all of Switlik's construction techniques and design in general. You can now expect an accurate rendition with my jackets as I have eliminated all guess work. With the hides that I currently have earmarked for this build it should not be a problem for me to reproduce up to and including a size 52 LONG.

Switlik Label.jpg


The label is a reproduction as the previous owner kept the original. However, I had my replacement label recreated using it's same dimensions and nomenclature. That exact original label that was once attached to my jacket is seen below.

Original Switlik Label.jpg


If there is one thing i have learned while doing this vintage jacket restoration work is that all jacket designs are unique to a given maker and nothing about these vintage jackets are generic. Especially when it comes to sleeves. The Switlik has a very unique design for it's sleeve and also full of peculiarities. As are all. To that end, it is my firm belief that no one can not accurately duplicate a specific makers complete design and especially not a given sleeve design from a picture. You are only fooling yourself to think otherwise. Which is why I try and take down the make jackets I plan on reproducing. Then when ever possible & not unlike this Switlik pay it homage by refurbishing it complete. Otherwise all you are truly getting with your given reproduction build is a generic jacket.

Case in point is the sleeve seen below. All of which has been taken down. Then duplicated and restitched in it's entirety. As a result I have eliminated all guess work to get the most accurate rendition.


Switlik Gusset.jpg




I figure that this restoration was worth the effort. As it is doubtful that I will have the opportunity to come up with another in my life time.

Going forward I will keep this jacket around for my model and permanent reference.

Please look forward to more!

Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Grant,

Okay but just a sneak peak!

I've still got to hand stitching the zipper back in place. As a max effort restoration I chose to hand stitch it back in place. That is rather than running it with a machine which takes only minutes. Thereby eliminate the possibility of creating extra stitch holes and maintain using 100% of the original work on both the front and back panels. In doing it will take many times longer but in my mind worth the effort.

I'll post a complete front once completely stitched.


Switlik Colar UnStitched .jpg
\

I wanted a vintage look for the jacket and faded a dark brown collar for 6 months to achieve that look.


Some results from the Switlik's zip tracks hand stitch work.
Well Aligned Switlik Zip Box.jpg



Switlik Talon Zipper.jpg


The standard Switlik M-422 zipper as seen above. It is an original blackened brass M-39 Talon that I sourced. Also the exact same model zipper assembly used by three different make mil spec jackets. To include the Switlik M-422, Monarch A-2 and W&G 85956 M-422A. Also please note the fresh stitch work done on the wind flap. As I also broke that wind flap panel to correctly duplicate it's pattern.

The Switlik wind flap is yet another example of feature that is always unique any particular given maker. Needless to say, I am always amazed by the intricate designs employed by each. Especially the single panel design like used by Switlik for their jacket. These USN type wind flaps are not unlike a finger print that separates it from all others. Unless removed and patterned complete it cannot be altogether correctly duplicated period.

More soon!

Cheers, Dave
 
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Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
clamping together the front and interior panels and then hand stitching them together is an amazing time consuming feat. doing so makes the stitch line look as though it was never worked on.....afriggnmazing.
 

stanier

Well-Known Member
That restored jacket is STUNNING :D , and my size too! But it's not for sale, sob, sob!

Love it, and a real tonic from the other end if this forum tonight, aaahhhhh!
 

stanier

Well-Known Member
Beautiful, ok, where can I get an unpatched size 40 or 42 (depending on actual measures) G&F navy jacket or H L Block navy jacket and have it restored by Dave? And what's Dave's wait time.... and you get a nice clean jacket with no "funky" odours etc? Sorry but hygiene is always a worry for me on used clothing. But I do have some and been on the journey!
 

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