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Recommend me a leather jacket

MrBlue

Member
Not to throw a monkey wrench into these works, but there’s something I think you aren’t necessarily considering: back length is really hard to judge because not all jacket collars sit at the same place on your neck. As an example, a size 40 of BK’s relic hunter has a back length of 23”, and actually sits lower than a Dubow (24.5”). The Rough Wear 23380 in the same size has a back length of 25”, but actually feels shorter than the Dubow.

I wouldn’t assume that you can know what back length you need in a given contract until you try it on. Andy, meanwhile knows these jackets backward and forward and had fitted a LOT of people. My advice would be to give him your dimensions (height, weight), with some pictures, and maybe the measurement from the base of your neck to where your back meets your hips (the belt line on most modern jackets), and let him guide you.

Interesting point, thanks. Andy advised adding no more than 1 inch to the Dubow, and he has seen the photos of me in the 27 inch jacket.
 

mulceber

Moderator
Yeah, if he’s seen that photo and he still advised adding only an inch, I’d go with him on that.

If it helps ease your nerves, keep in mind that getting the back measurement a little off is less of a problem than other measurements (like sleeves!): if it’s a bit short, you just wear higher waisted pants. If it’s a bit long though, you can still wear it, but it throws off the look of the jacket.
 

MrBlue

Member
I've replied to him saying that my concern is the 27 inch jacket length for the Jagdflieger vs 24.5 inch length for the Dubow. I imagine he will respond and say exactly what you said - that you can't compare them because they are two very different cuts.

In that case, I might add 0.5 inch to the length, based on what the other tailor said about my torso being a little longer than normal. But if I do that, I don't know if I'd need to do the same for the ANJ-3.

Speaking of ANJ-3, 42R or 44R?
 

MrBlue

Member
My chest circumference is 41.2 inches. Shoulder measurement is 49 inches.

AN-J-3 size 42
-------------------
pit to pit 22.5
shoulders 19
back 26.25
sleeve 25.25

AN-J-3 size 44
-------------------
pit to pit 23.5
shoulders 19.5
back 26.375
sleeve 25.25

Dubow 27798 size 42
-------------------
pit to pit 22.5
shoulders 18
back 24.5
sleeve 25.5

Dubow 27798 size 44
-------------------
pit to pit 23.5
shoulders 18.5
back 24.75
sleeve 25.75
 

MrBlue

Member
Okay, a long overdue update.

BK messed up the ANJ-3 twice, so they cancelled it and refunded me. I have now received the Dubow that I asked them to make, however, it doesn't fit well.

For a recap, Andy said I could have ordered a 42 or a 44, and that I probably didn't need the extra length. He sent me the measurements of both, which are above. He said that a 42 would be a slim fit and 44 would be a casual fit. I was worried that the casual fit would be blousy, so I went for the 42. But I asked him to add extra length to it. Specifically, I asked him to add one inch to the back length and 0.5 inches to the shoulders. From the photos, this does not appear to be done.

Also, can someone confirm whether I measured the pit to pit right? Because, the pit to pit should be 22.5 inches, but that does not look close to 22.5 inches. Am I missing something?
IMG_20210528_140836.jpgIMG_20210528_141302.jpgIMG_20210528_143141.jpgIMG_20210528_143206.jpgIMG_20210528_142102.jpgIMG_20210528_140854.jpgIMG_20210528_140844.jpg
 

MrBlue

Member
Forgot to add that I have emailed Andy at BK to ask what to do about it. Will let everyone know what he says.
IMG_20210528_141326.jpgIMG_20210528_141352.jpg

Other interesting thoughts. I already had the Jagdflieger jacket made by Noble House. It is amazing that there is such a difference in the leather. The BK leather feels and looks amazing. Much thinner and less stiff than the noble house jacket. Makes the jacket more comfortable because it flexes easier. At least, it would be more comfortable if the sizing was right.
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Well, you got the 'trim' fit. Looks good generally, and will loosen up over time... but for me, I think its short in body and sleeves.
(See my post on Aug 14th)

But what's important, is how does it feel to you, does it feel/ fit a bit trim or is it comfortable?

If you do not feel good in it, my advice is to sell it and move on. Otherwise it will become a closet-queen.
IF Andy is open to making you another one, now at least you have a better insight into fit and how to make the next jacket better.

We've all been here, done that. Its a learning process.

ps that russet Liberty looks amazing. I have samples and am drooling to get a russet BK
 

mulceber

Moderator
It looks like they sent you the wrong jacket. The pit-to-pit issue especially makes me think that this is an issue the folks at BK are going to fix, since that's a full inch and a half short of what the measurement should be.
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Only BK can say, but its also possible when you asked for an extra 0.5 in the shoulders, the body panels were widened...?
Not saying that's the case, just that its possible.

Theres always going to be variances/ tolerances...

I received two Dubow 42s from BK and one was very slightly larger/ roomier than the other. Thats the one Kermit now has.

Exactly same for ELC. I have had so many jackets from them and there are always variances.
Even my last two Monarchs... Im convinced the first jacket was a touch trimmer. Anyway.
 

MrBlue

Member
If the jacket was made according to specifications, I will probably sell it, unless Andy can do something about it (which I doubt).

It just feels a little too tight and too short. I would need an inch extra on the sleeves and an inch on the body length, plus extra room for my chest. I will see what Andy says, whether it was manufactured according to specifications or not.

I am probably going to have Shawn from FiveStar make me a jacket or two. I have got leather samples from him, which I like.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
It would be so much easier to offer an opinion of your jacket and answer your questions if you would post your photos using the large image option . This just gets frustrating trying to help you out and deal with these small thumbnails .
 

MrBlue

Member
It would be so much easier to offer an opinion of your jacket and answer your questions if you would post your photos using the large image option . This just gets frustrating trying to help you out and deal with these small thumbnails .

Some people complain if you include the big images, some people complain if you include thumbnails. So you can't please everyone.

Click on the thumbnails to see a larger image.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Some people complain if you include the big images, some people complain if you include thumbnails. So you can't please everyone.

Click on the thumbnails to see a larger image.
Sorry but I must respectfully disagree with you. I haven’t seen anyone here complain because someone posted full size images . However, the choice is yours to post them however you want. The choice is ours as to whether we care to respond or not .
 

Smithy

Well-Known Member
Also if you post really big pics the forum software automatically resizes them so they fit nicely in the post. You can just click on the image and voom - full size resolution.

So much easier and user friendly than thumbnails which as we all know are on par with traffic wardens, taxes, diarrhea and getting sand in your sandwich at the beach.
 

Nickb123

Well-Known Member
Yeah, it’ll need the extra length. I’m sorry it didn’t work out. Not sure what was going on with BK. On my phone the thumbnails rarely load, but was able to see the pics this time around. Definitely spec sleeve length rather than fussing too much with shoulders.
 

mulceber

Moderator
Yeah, this is really out of character for them. All of the measurements appear to be smaller than requested. I hope this is handled to your satisfaction, MrBlue, and that you get a jacket that makes you happy.
 
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