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Platon's J.A. Dubow 27798, Size 44 from Greece

Whatsit

Active Member
Thanks Burt for all your help and sorry for all my bugging. I so much appreciated you and your willingness to help. I won’t ever bug you again especially late :0)
I have one question for those that have ordered. It says type of jacket. Slim, regular or loose. I ordered regular. Why would someone order slip or loose?
Mike
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Thanks Burt for all your help and sorry for all my bugging. I so much appreciated you and your willingness to help. I won’t ever bug you again especially late :0)
I have one question for those that have ordered. It says type of jacket. Slim, regular or loose. I ordered regular. Why would someone order slip or loose?
Mike
Mike
No bugging involved, truly. Glad to know that you’ve found something you’ll like and have for a long time. Regarding the slim or loose sizes I assume they offer those for tall lean guys or stocky wider body types.
Cheers
B-Man2
 

Technonut2112

Well-Known Member
There are no 'slim or relaxed' tweaks to the pattern it's self. Platon explained to me that those choices are there to determine whether one should size-up, or size-down to get the fit desired. Here's his exact quote regarding this:

we don't offer slim, but would encourage someone who wants slim fit to size down (and someone who wants relaxed fit to
size up). Hence our question about the fit preference.
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi All,

This sizing info got me interested in looking to my original Dubow 27798 for a pending restoration. In this case in a size 48. However, only truly sized to approximate a modern size 44. Almost perfect for my frame.

My original Dubow is in need of a complete restoration. It will ultimately cost me well over over what Platon is asking for a new horse hide jacket. No telling what I will have in it when complete.

Cheers, Dave
 
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Maverickson

Well-Known Member
Hi B Man,

Purchased a couple of years back from Bazelot. Since it will work for my frame with room to spare I purchased it with the intent of restoring and keeping within my personal collection. Kept in storage until just recently. Only now beginning it's restoration process.

Currently, the hide is fairly well dried out and stiff. In the process of packing it with Vaseline and then drying it in my hot attic in between applications. A process best done during the warmer months.

The hide (1 mm to 1.1 mm thick) on this jacket & looks like it will hold up well for a wearer. I will restore reusing the original stitch holes. I'm not one to do a run of the mill machine stitch restoration. It drives me crazy to wear any vintage jacket with ghost stitches from previous restorations.

I learned quick when I sent out my first jacket to have done in 2008. That experience convinced me I could do a much better job than anyone within the industry doing restoration work. At the same time got me on the road to accumulating machinery, experience and knowledge for building new from scratch.

With that in mind, I will take this jacket down to it's individual panels. Change out the zip, lining, redye the hide and replace the original berry colored knits. Also do some minor reinforcing to the panel seams & then restitch it back (by hand where seen using double needles) all done reusing it's original holes.




If you like to wear original jackets like I do, I found this restoration process to be the best. That way & within reason there is no chance of really doing damage while wearing a vintage garment.

The jacket has 19" to 19 1/2" shoulders and just under 24" pits. My Dubow was made with the large/wide front panels (aka. gut room) and will make up to 26" to 26 1/2" length sleeve and back length. I suppose the reason that the factory gave it the size 48 label is due to it's longer lengths. On the other hand, had it been built with a slightly wider back panel and neck hole area it would have more closely achieved what is found in a modern size 46.

Like many of these WW-2 vintage jackets it has relatively smaller dimensions as compared to it's stated size.

In my opinion Platon made a good jacket pick with the Dubow for reproducing. From those original WW-2 jacket manufacturers it is among the simplest or most uncomplicated A-2 design made. Thus one of the quickest A-2 build available and perfect for mass production. All the while retaining some aesthetically pleasing features.

Cheers, Dave
 
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silvio76

Well-Known Member
Hi B Man,

Purchased a couple of years back from Bazelot. Since it will work for my frame with room to spare I purchased it with the intent of restoring and keeping within my personal collection. Kept in storage until just recently. Only now beginning it's restoration process.

Currently, the hide is fairly well dried out and stiff. In the process of packing it with Vaseline and then drying it in my hot attic in between applications. A process best done during the warmer months.

The hide (1 mm to 1.1 mm thick) on this jacket & looks like it will hold up well for a wearer. I will restore reusing the original stitch holes. I'm not one to do a run of the mill machine stitch restoration. It drives me crazy to wear any vintage jacket with ghost stitches from previous restorations.

I learned quick when I sent out my first jacket to have done in 2008. That experience convinced me I could do a much better job than anyone within the industry doing restoration work. Notwithstanding, as with anything & everything, you get what you pay for.

With that in mind, I will take this jacket down to it's individual panels. Change out the zip, lining, redye the hide and replace the original berry colored knits. Also do some minor reinforcing to the panel seams & then restitch it back (by hand where seen using double needles) all done reusing it's original holes.




If you like to wear original jackets like I do, I found this restoration process to be the best. That way & within reason there is no chance of really doing damage while wearing a vintage garment.

The jacket has 19" to 19 1/2" shoulders and just under 24" pits. My Dubow was is made with the large/wide front panels (aka. gut room) and will make up to 26" to 26 1/2" length sleeve and back length. I suppose the reason that the factory gave it the size 48 label is due to it's longer lengths. On the other hand, had it been built with a slightly wider back panel and neck hole area it would have more closely achieved what is found in a modern size 46.

Like many of these WW-2 vintage jackets it has relatively smaller dimensions as compared to it's stated size.

In my opinion Platon made a good jacket pick with the Dubow for reproducing. From those original WW-2 jacket manufacturers it is among the simplest or most uncomplicated A-2 design made. Thus one of the quickest A-2 build available and perfect for mass production. All the while retaining some aesthetically pleasing features.

Cheers, Dave
Beautiful jacket.
 

zoomer

Well-Known Member
I don't keep up with international economics, but Nakata Shoten in Japan has managed to keep their chrome-tanned HH 'Morgan Memphis Belle' A-2 at $430.00 USD for quite some time. Not an actual contract repro, but has high armholes, relatively slender sleeves, and an overall period-accurate pattern. I realize that their jackets are factory produced with some cost-reducing materials utilized, but even if Platon can ultimately settle-in at $800.00 USD or a bit under consistently, It would surely have an effect on the high-end market as we now know it.
I keep saying it...You can offer real bargains as long as you don't offer a full range of sizes. The economics are what, in less enlightened times, westerners called "inscrutable."
 

Technonut2112

Well-Known Member
I keep saying it...You can offer real bargains as long as you don't offer a full range of sizes. The economics are what, in less enlightened times, westerners called "inscrutable."

They have sizes up to 50.... My tagged 44 fits my 44" chest quite well, and provides a nice period fit everywhere else, except for the sleeves being a bit long.

EDIT: I can't recall the exact measurements, but Linda Morgan (Col. Robert K. Morgan's widow) had a size 46 along with the couple of 44's, and from what I remember, it did scale to what a 46 would be..

Screenshot_2018-08-29 MORGAN MEMPHIS BELLE TYPE A-2 ミリタリーショップ 革ジャン 中田商店.png
 
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Boyo

Well-Known Member
Hi B Man,

Purchased a couple of years back from Bazelot. Since it will work for my frame with room to spare I purchased it with the intent of restoring and keeping within my personal collection. Kept in storage until just recently. Only now beginning it's restoration process.

Currently, the hide is fairly well dried out and stiff. In the process of packing it with Vaseline and then drying it in my hot attic in between applications. A process best done during the warmer months.

The hide (1 mm to 1.1 mm thick) on this jacket & looks like it will hold up well for a wearer. I will restore reusing the original stitch holes. I'm not one to do a run of the mill machine stitch restoration. It drives me crazy to wear any vintage jacket with ghost stitches from previous restorations.

I learned quick when I sent out my first jacket to have done in 2008. That experience convinced me I could do a much better job than anyone within the industry doing restoration work. At the same time got me on the road to accumulating machinery, experience and knowledge for building new from scratch.

With that in mind, I will take this jacket down to it's individual panels. Change out the zip, lining, redye the hide and replace the original berry colored knits. Also do some minor reinforcing to the panel seams & then restitch it back (by hand where seen using double needles) all done reusing it's original holes.

If you like to wear original jackets like I do, I found this restoration process to be the best. That way & within reason there is no chance of really doing damage while wearing a vintage garment.

The jacket has 19" to 19 1/2" shoulders and just under 24" pits. My Dubow was made with the large/wide front panels (aka. gut room) and will make up to 26" to 26 1/2" length sleeve and back length. I suppose the reason that the factory gave it the size 48 label is due to it's longer lengths. On the other hand, had it been built with a slightly wider back panel and neck hole area it would have more closely achieved what is found in a modern size 46.

Like many of these WW-2 vintage jackets it has relatively smaller dimensions as compared to it's stated size.

In my opinion Platon made a good jacket pick with the Dubow for reproducing. From those original WW-2 jacket manufacturers it is among the simplest or most uncomplicated A-2 design made. Thus one of the quickest A-2 build available and perfect for mass production. All the while retaining some aesthetically pleasing features.

Cheers, Dave

Dave, wow that looks like a great project.. This deserves its own thread as I would love to follow along as you progress...
 

Juanito

Well-Known Member
So...I have been wearing the jacket quite a bit now that it is getting a little cooler out. Been out in the rain twice, and while it still gets wet like any semi-aniline jacket, it seems to be more water resistant than any of the other semi-aniline jackets I had from Eastman, to Good Wear, to Diamond Dave.

This is going to sound odd, but I didn't want to like the jacket. This thing has won me over. You are missing out if you do not have one in your closet.
 

Technonut2112

Well-Known Member
Juanito, you said earlier you ordered a second jacket in seal from Platon in August. Have you heard anything about when he thought he’d be mailing it out?

I ordered mine in seal before Juanito, and was recently told by Platon that it should be shipping before the end of this month. There was a delay in obtaining zippers and snaps which he has now.
 

Whatsit

Active Member
So...I have been wearing the jacket quite a bit now that it is getting a little cooler out. Been out in the rain twice, and while it still gets wet like any semi-aniline jacket, it seems to be more water resistant than any of the other semi-aniline jackets I had from Eastman, to Good Wear, to Diamond Dave.

This is going to sound odd, but I didn't want to like the jacket. This thing has won me over. You are missing out if you do not have one in your closet.
Juanito, you said earlier you ordered a second jacket in seal from Platon in August. Have you heard anything about when he thought he’d be mailing it out?
 

Whatsit

Active Member
I ordered mine in seal before Juanito, and was recently told by Platon that it should be shipping before the end of this month. There was a delay in obtaining zippers and snaps which he has now.
Great thanks! I was told the same thing but that was back in September
 

Juanito

Well-Known Member
Juanito, you said earlier you ordered a second jacket in seal from Platon in August. Have you heard anything about when he thought he’d be mailing it out?
Nope, and I haven't asked. I am not a high touch kind of guy; the less e-mail the better.
 
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