Original Cyclist Jacket (Hartmann)

[Kermit3D]

It is with great pleasure that I present you my very first vintage jacket.
As I said in another post, I played hide and seek with this jacket. It belonged to Pilot (Brice) for a long time and I saw it appear from time to time on specialized forums (Fedora Lounge and here)... then it was sold and definitely disappeared from my radar. A few days ago, while I was on the internet without any specific purpose, I went to an auction site by chance. That's when I came across this lot, whose auction was ending in two hours. I recognized the jacket, I bid and I won ! I was very lucky in the succession of events, and the price did not go too high.

This is an original cyclist jacket (Hartmann jacket) which is in good condition for its age (about 80 years). The leather is very nice and soft. We can see the trace of some minor repairs... but overall it is a solid jacket. The zippers are from "Eclair" brand as often on this kind of jacket. The metal "belt" buckle is amazing, the pattern is quite typical (art deco design), but it seems to be in a rather soft metal (aluminum?), it's not chromed iron as usual. A lot of the little adjustments are wonky, look at the sewn leather straps that hold the buckle... but that's what makes vintage jackets so charming.

Well, we agree that this jacket is too small for me (but not so much if we refer to the 1940's fit pics) but I was expecting it and it's not that bad. I'm already having a lot of fun just looking at it.

The cut of the jacket is absolutely gorgeous ! I'll even say it's perfect for my body type... it's just a little too small. There is no standard shape for this kind of jacket, every cyclist jacket had small variations and you can't (shouldn't) refer to a particular model to proclaim : "this fit is the real thing".

Jacket dimensions :

Shoulder to shoulder : 44 cm (17.3 inch)
Armpit to armpit : 51 cm (20 inch)
Back length (from collar seam to bottom of jacket) : 53 cm (20.8 inch)
Sleeve length (outer curve) : 60 cm (23.6 inch)


I'll say it again, but I'm really happy to have been able to get my hands on a rare original cyclist jacket.
Now here are some pictures (click to zoom in) :

 

[Kermit3D]

Here are some pictures of the period to show how small jackets were worn :

 

[flyincowboy]

What a beauty! in my opinion just a little bit short at the waist! Nice find!

 

[Wz1999]

Great jacket! Congrats!!

 

[mulceber]

Great find, Kermit! Congratulations on a wonderful acquisition. And honestly, not a bad fit at all, to my eye. Definitely fitted, and you'll probably have to wear your highest-waisted trousers with it, but it's very much of a kind with the original photos you shared.

 

[Grant]

Lovely jacket and the fit is dead on perfect!

 

[B-Man2]

Kermit
The jacket is a very cool find. An original that we don’t see a lot of here in the US.
I agree with a few of the others, the jacket doesn’t look as small in the photos as you may think and looks wearable. Definitely a jacket that was worn very trimly in your original photos of the German air crews.
Congrats on your find !

 

[Kermit3D]

What a beauty! in my opinion just a little bit short at the waist! Nice find!

Yes it is very short... 53cm / 20.8 inch between the collar seam and the bottom of the back.

Great find, Kermit! Congratulations on a wonderful acquisition. And honestly, not a bad fit at all, to my eye. Definitely fitted, and you'll probably have to wear your highest-waisted trousers with it, but it's very much of a kind with the original photos you shared.

Thanks Jan.
Pants I'm wearing in photos are the only real high waisted pants I own. I would have to add suspenders to keep the waist at the right height. The real problem is the sleeve length. They are 4 cm (1.6 inch) shorter than my other cyclist jackets.

Kermit
The jacket is a very cool find. An original that we don’t see a lot of here in the US.
I agree with a few of the others, the jacket doesn’t look as small in the photos as you may think and looks wearable. Definitely a jacket that was worn very trimly in your original photos of the German air crews.
Congrats on your find !

Thanks Burt,
It's not visually shocking but it's too small for me to feel really comfortable.
In addition to the sleeve length issue, I have a chest of (only) 98 cm (38.6 inch) and the jacket measures 51 cm (20 inch) pit to pit. That doesn't leave much place, if I cough I'm afraid the jacket will explode ! (no I'm still pretty far from it )
I'm only wearing a thin shirt under the jacket on photos... impossible to think of adding another layer.

 

[johnwayne]

I think it looks like it’s a good fit but if it doesn’t feel right/comfortable it can be frustrating when you do want to wear it, not for one minute though do I suspect it would ever be worn much. My first original A2 - an Aero was exactly like that hence I eventually moved it on!
Nonetheless thats still a lovely jacket, enjoy!!

 

[Kermit3D]

I think it looks like it’s a good fit but if it doesn’t feel right/comfortable it can be frustrating when you do want to wear it, not for one minute though do I suspect it would ever be worn much. My first original A2 - an Aero was exactly like that hence I eventually moved it on!
Nonetheless thats still a lovely jacket, enjoy!!

Thanks. Anyway, I wasn't planning to wear an original on a regular basis... that's what reproductions are for (just my opinion).
But on rare occasions I will not hesitate to give it some fresh air.

 

[Flightengineer]

It fits you!

 

[Rory Schultz]

Looks Grrrrreeeat! I wish I could lose my gut. There you have it boys, when you get my age you gain a gut and lose your butt!!!

 

[Saint-ex]

WOW nice catch !

Suits you, but I understand it's not really confortable. But it's a nice jacket and almost perfect period fit !

 

[Johnnie Espresso]

they don't come much better. Perfect fit in my eyes, wonderful jacket!