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New S&M Wholesale USN 1st Gen N-1 .

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Just got this from S&M Wholesale . Looks nice but a bit pricey . Up there with Buzz prices . Did these jackets have a celluloid layer under the Bedford cord to make them water proof ?
Check it out and post your thoughts .

 

saucerfiend

Well-Known Member
Just got this from Flightjacket.com Looks very nice with the black Goatskin.

 

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Just got this from S&M Wholesale . Looks nice but a bit pricey . Up there with Buzz prices . Did these jackets have a celluloid layer under the Bedford cord to make them water proof ?
Check it out and post your thoughts .

The BR versions do. Have one at home and gave one to TimP a few years ago.

They both had the internal liner. Made it a bit noisy and less forgiving; however, has to be accurate for the price.
 

sparidon

Active Member
Just got this from S&M Wholesale . Looks nice but a bit pricey . Up there with Buzz prices . Did these jackets have a celluloid layer under the Bedford cord to make them water proof ?
Check it out and post your thoughts .

Originals did have the internal liner, as do the BR repops.
 

adfrost

Well-Known Member
Hmm…I’m very tempted by the khaki version. The Bronson N-1 I have is nice, but it’s a tad snug in places, and they don’t make them any larger. SMW doesn’t appear to be allergic to make “western” sizes.
 

Enigma1938

Well-Known Member
The 1st (blue) version of the N1 should have the alpaca lining all the sleeves down even at the cuffs, and there should be loops for a weapon harness in the armpit and waist area. The SM version lacks this features...
 

Grant

Well-Known Member
Good call on the alpaca lining. I've noticed the armpit loops on some original green N-1's and always wondered what they were used for. How were they used as a weapons harness? Always interested in learning something new!
 

D97x7

Well-Known Member
Seems like alpaca must vary a lot, or it's just me but I don't find the stuff from Aero or Gizemo to be remotely uncomfortable, just the opposite actually it's lovely and soft, especially the sort in my N-1.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Seems like alpaca must vary a lot, or it's just me but I don't find the stuff from Aero or Gizemo to be remotely uncomfortable, just the opposite actually it's lovely and soft, especially the sort in my N-1.
Hi Nick
Just my thoughts, but I’m not sure that the alpaca used in the jackets made today hasn’t been treated and processed differently than the original WWII stuff. Having had an original alpaca jacket I remember selling it off because it was pretty itchy when you wore it without a long sleeved shirt or sweater under it .
 

bseal

Well-Known Member
Hi Nick
Just my thoughts, but I’m not sure that the alpaca used in the jackets made today hasn’t been treated and processed differently than the original WWII stuff. Having had an original alpaca jacket I remember selling it off because it was pretty itchy when you wore it without a long sleeved shirt or sweater under it .
Yup, had a WWII original in a large size and in respectable shape. Unwearable. Oh well. I’d gladly purchase a Sherpa lined repro though, terrific and classy style.
 

bseal

Well-Known Member
Excellent site, it’s all about the microns / quality of the alpaca:

B700CC01-9C21-446F-AA49-146C99B1FBE1.jpeg
 

sparidon

Active Member
Hi Nick
Just my thoughts, but I’m not sure that the alpaca used in the jackets made today hasn’t been treated and processed differently than the original WWII stuff. Having had an original alpaca jacket I remember selling it off because it was pretty itchy when you wore it without a long sleeved shirt or sweater under it .
Most of the quality newer repro N1's like Buzz and McCoy's (of which I have owned both and favor the McCoy by far) have a wool and alpaca blend. The newer Buzz N1's have more wool and a great deal of cotton...hence the soft feel. My McCoy's is as soft as a newborn's rear end and is 50/50 wool and alpaca. My old Buzz deck blue N1 is heavy on the alpaca and is itchy as anything...can't wear it with short sleeves.
 

adfrost

Well-Known Member
Well, I pulled the trigger on the khaki version, size 46. They’re running a Veterans Day sales that took another $50 off, and I couldn’t pass that up.
 

adfrost

Well-Known Member
Got the jacket, and have a few thoughts. TLDR; I'll probably be eating the 15% restocking fee. Since the only other deck jacket I have is a Bronson, I'll compare it to that.

Outer shell
SMW: Dull green, similar to the Bronson A-1 deck jacket. I know this can be considered "khaki", and it may be accurate to the originals, but it's not quite what I was looking for.
Bronson: Tan. More of what I consider "khaki".I prefer it.

Lining
SMW: Advertised as 100% Apalca and I believe it. It is longer and softer than the Bronson relatively speaking. Unfortunately, it is also itchy. Not SUPER itchy...I'd even say it tolerable...but I still don't think I'll enjoy wearing it. Again, this is probably more accurate, but it's also not as comfortable (to me).
Bronson: Advertised 70% wool, 30% polyester. Shorter, rougher, and thicker than the SMW, but it's more comfortable. I prefer this one.

Construction
SMW: Because the lining is thinner, the collar isn't quite as "robust" as the Bronson and kind of "folds" up on itself. The zipper looks & feels cheap. It's rather flimsy and hard to zip up. I think it's too small for the job it's being asked to do. The label is much nicer. I washed my Bronson A-1 and the lettering flaked off...this label would not have that problem.
Bronson: Collar holds its shape no matter what. Zipper is also a talon, but zips easily and smoothly. The pull tab is longer, which is nice. The pockets are corduroy lined, which is more accurate and nicer too. It's a tiny detail, but I like the USN stencil as well.

So...yeah. If there's anything I've learned in jacket collecting its that if I initially don't like a jacket, I'm not going to like it any better with time. Between the lining and the zipper, I'm just not feeling this one. I think the Bronson is overall the better jacket, even with the inaccurate lining. I just wish they made sizes larger than 44. The SMW is definitely more comfortable from a fit perspective, being a size 46.

As far as N1s go, I'm actually learning toward trying Cockpit's version. It's not accurate in many ways, but I like the look of the fit and the materials look great.

IMG_8106.jpeg


IMG_8102.jpeg


Zipper:

IMG_8104.jpeg


Color Comparison:

IMG_8109.jpeg


Lining Comparison:

IMG_8110.jpeg
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Got the jacket, and have a few thoughts. TLDR; I'll probably be eating the 15% restocking fee. Since the only other deck jacket I have is a Bronson, I'll compare it to that.

Outer shell
SMW: Dull green, similar to the Bronson A-1 deck jacket. I know this can be considered "khaki", and it may be accurate to the originals, but it's not quite what I was looking for.
Bronson: Tan. More of what I consider "khaki".I prefer it.

Lining
SMW: Advertised as 100% Apalca and I believe it. It is longer and softer than the Bronson relatively speaking. Unfortunately, it is also itchy. Not SUPER itchy...I'd even say it tolerable...but I still don't think I'll enjoy wearing it. Again, this is probably more accurate, but it's also not as comfortable (to me).
Bronson: Advertised 70% wool, 30% polyester. Shorter, rougher, and thicker than the SMW, but it's more comfortable. I prefer this one.

Construction
SMW: Because the lining is thinner, the collar isn't quite as "robust" as the Bronson and kind of "folds" up on itself. The zipper looks & feels cheap. It's rather flimsy and hard to zip up. I think it's too small for the job it's being asked to do. The label is much nicer. I washed my Bronson A-1 and the lettering flaked off...this label would not have that problem.
Bronson: Collar holds its shape no matter what. Zipper is also a talon, but zips easily and smoothly. The pull tab is longer, which is nice. The pockets are corduroy lined, which is more accurate and nicer too. It's a tiny detail, but I like the USN stencil as well.

So...yeah. If there's anything I've learned in jacket collecting its that if I initially don't like a jacket, I'm not going to like it any better with time. Between the lining and the zipper, I'm just not feeling this one. I think the Bronson is overall the better jacket, even with the inaccurate lining. I just wish they made sizes larger than 44. The SMW is definitely more comfortable from a fit perspective, being a size 46.

As far as N1s go, I'm actually learning toward trying Cockpit's version. It's not accurate in many ways, but I like the look of the fit and the materials look great.

View attachment 69402

View attachment 69403

Zipper:

View attachment 69404

Color Comparison:

View attachment 69405

Lining Comparison:

View attachment 69406
Adfrost
Great review … we need more comparisons like this one…. Thank you .
 

Enigma1938

Well-Known Member
...
As far as N1s go, I'm actually learning toward trying Cockpit's version. It's not accurate in many ways, but I like the look of the fit and the materials look great.....

I highly recommend you the N1 from Gizemo. In my opinion this is the best you can get in price / quality ratio. For around 280$ you'll get a jacket that's highly accurate and of very very high quality. The seams, the materials... everything's great and I dare to claim that this jackets are as good as BR or RMC, maybe there's no hidden inner celluloid membrane but on the other hand it's not noisy and the lining is far better than BR. There's a 100% alpaca version and one with 50% alpaca and 50% wool. I have the 50/50 and there's absolutely no itch.
Comes even with a a handful of spare buttons. I'm super happy with mine.
Oh and I should mention that I wear a size 44 and it comes out pretty roomy, should work for you as well
 
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