Need Help to Identify "A2 Werber Leather Coat Co. Contract 1729"

[Shawn Ali]

Dear Respected VLJ Members and Friends

In hope that all is well, Currently we received an Original WWII Jacket from a Friend to make its reproduction, Unfortunately its lining and label are missed, and we have no other ways to check its exact Contract than to ask some friends to help us identify its correct Contract details,
I am posting its detailed images below and will be thankful for your great help and assistance in this regard

Any further details or information about this Contract will be highly appreciated.

Best Regards

Shawn

 

[2BM2K]

The pocket appears to have a lining. This is very unusual.

Can you confirm that the pocket is lined, if so does it appear original to the jacket.

The jacket could be the Werber 32-6225 contract.
Geoff

 

[s4rmark]

Shawn , it might be a good idea to purchase a copy of the Eastman A-2 identification manual. It will have all the information you will need .

 

[mulceber]

Based on the use of flat rivets (as opposed to tube rivets) for the zip reinforcement, and square stitching at the top corner of the pocket, this is the Werber 1112-P, the 4th A-2 contract.

 

[Lorenzo_l]

I agree with Jan re the square stitching at the pockets' top corners. Based on that and other things, it looks like a Werber 36-1112P from here. A picture of the zipper puller would help in further identifying the jacket.

 

[leper-colony]

Didn't the Werber 1112P had a snap tab at the collar and not a hook? That would seem to rule that contract out? The knit cuffs look really straight, not bi-weave...but not sure.

 

[ties70]

...and don't the other Werber contracts all have triangled reinforcements in the pocket corners?

 

[mulceber]

...and don't the other Werber contracts all have triangled reinforcements in the pocket corners?

Only the first one (1729) did. Of the 4 attested Werber contracts, the first 2 had flat rivets on the zip, and the last 3 had square stitching on the pocket. This has both. Ergo, 2nd Werber contract.

Didn't the Werber 1112P had a snap tab at the collar and not a hook? That would seem to rule that contract out?

Could you be thinking of the Goldsmith? Eastman’s guide contains a picture of the collar hooks on the 1112-P.

 

[leper-colony]

Only the first one (1729) did. Of the 4 attested Werber contracts, the first 2 had flat rivets on the zip, and the last 3 had square stitching on the pocket. This has both. Ergo, 2nd Werber contract.



Could you be thinking of the Goldsmith? Eastman’s guide contains a picture of the collar hooks on the 1112-P.

Good Wear Leather Coat Company — Sale 1936 Werber A-2 Jacket

www.goodwearleather.com

 

[mulceber]

 

[leper-colony]

...and don't the other Werber contracts all have triangled reinforcements in the pocket corners?

Looking at the ELC 1729 compared to an original and then this jacket, the stitching is different at the pocket top. Also the corners of the pocket bottoms are much less rounded than a 1729.

It does look like a Werber though...

 

[leper-colony]

View attachment 63279

Buttoned Pocket Flaps A-2 Jackets

Interesting. Those look like snaps. Maybe an "in the field" addition? I don't see rivets on the zip but not to clear of an image so it's hard to be sure. Cool photo!Werber's 36-1112P had a snap tab at the throat, in lieu of those fiddly hooks, which at the time, had to be sewn in. An answer to a...

www.vintageleatherjackets.org

 

[2BM2K]

The 1112 contract has double stitching along the epaullette, the one in the photo only has one row. therfore not a 1112 contract.

Looking very closely at the pocket reinforcements in the photo,s all I can see is an inverted L shape, not square or triangular.

The pocket corners look a bit too square for a 1729.

 

[mulceber]

Buttoned Pocket Flaps A-2 Jackets

Interesting. Those look like snaps. Maybe an "in the field" addition? I don't see rivets on the zip but not to clear of an image so it's hard to be sure. Cool photo!Werber's 36-1112P had a snap tab at the throat, in lieu of those fiddly hooks, which at the time, had to be sewn in. An answer to a...

www.vintageleatherjackets.org

That clarifies it nicely: straps have been found in some examples of the 36-1112P.

 

[leper-colony]

Were the 1729 lined pockets? Was the 1112P lined pockets?

 

[ties70]

 

[leper-colony]

Does it matter that the snap studs are not dimpled? Or is that an "I don't care"?

 

[ties70]

...and ELC's 1729...

 

[mulceber]

The 1112 contract has double stitching along the epaullette, the one in the photo only has one row. therfore not a 1112 contract.

In the GW 1112p repro link that @leper-colony shared, the epaulets have single stitching. It was likely done both ways on this contract.

 

[2BM2K]

In the GW 1112p repro link that @leper-colony shared, the epaulets have single stitching. It was likely done both ways on this contract.

I was going by the example in the Eastman book, which is the only one I have seen.