Monarch or Willis&Geiger

[Erwin]

Hey Folks,

A quick question, based on the pen pocket shape [a very unique cut shape] and green lining inside the pocket... is it a jacket made by Monarch or Willis&Geiger?

Thanks for your help, and comments - source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195782074062?hash=item2d95855ece:g:THsAAOSwkttkbSmr

 

[Chandler]

Don't Monarchs have a seam down the middle of the back of the lining? Or is that only a few contracts?

 

[Erwin]

I had the same thoughts, this vertical seam is very distinctive in Monarch. However, this pen pocket and green lining look identical to those from AN-J-3 [Monarch] posted by Mulceber in “A Better Fighting Garment…”.

 

[Mark Hutchins]

Willis and Geiger.
M422 ( no collar stand/ no 7 lines of horizontal stitching on rear of collar) as required after Oct 1940 per M422a spec sheet.

 

[Mark Hutchins]

In addition to pencil pocket shape, there are other identifiers for which company made the jacket. Throat latch shape, pocket flap shape, wind flap shape, property mark color, font and location, button size on Willis & Geiger, sewn under arm grommets on HLBlock, pencil pocket line of stitching on Gordon and Ferguson and more. But those are enough to identify most early jackets.

 

[Erwin]

Thanks, Mark!

 

[Brettafett]

Did someone here pick this up perchance?

 

[mulceber]

• short sleeves
• salmon liner
• M-42 Talon zipper with traces of electro-plating
• no horizontal collar stitching

Looks like a Block M-422A to me. If we could see the vents at the armpit and check to see if they were embroidered instead of grommeted, that would be the clincher.

 

[Chandler]

What manufacturer used those fancy pocket buttons?

 

[Erwin]

Sadly I was not bidding, it was sold for 160$. I compared this with my jacket [just received AN-6522 and it is in fantastic condition] and this pen pocket in fact looks like G&W.

Cheers folks!

 

[Bennarion]

Hi. Someone can tell me when this jacket was made. There is a nylon zipper on it.

 

[Erwin]

There was a topic about a similar jacket made by Abercrombie... In my opinion, it is from the '70s [based on the used zipper]. Cool piece!

A possible civilian version of an ANJ-3 ??

I’m just guessing on this one but, is this a civilian version of the Abercrombie and Fitch ANJ-3 ?? I’m very interested in hearing others thoughts on this jacket ...

www.vintageleatherjackets.org

 

[mulceber]

Yeah, looks like a repro to me. Something about the mouton and the back of the collar looks repro-y to me.

 

[Chandler]

No pic of the manufacturer's tag?

Gets fuzzy when I blow up the full-size jacket image.

Wait a minute -- manufacturer tag in the whole jacket image, but looks removed in the cleaning instructions pic. Or two different jackets?

 

[Bennarion]

Thank you friends!

 

[Mark Hutchins]

Hey Folks,

A quick question, based on the pen pocket shape [a very unique cut shape] and green lining inside the pocket... is it a jacket made by Monarch or Willis&Geiger?

Thanks for your help, and comments - source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/195782074062?hash=item2d95855ece:g:THsAAOSwkttkbSmr

Willis and Geiger. Several tells. 1. Throat latch shape, pocket flap shape, collar button diameter , pencil pocket shape. I see no collar stand ,(7 horizontal lines of stitching on rear of collar) so therefore it will bevan M422 and not an M422A. It will have short sleeves (14", or so). The M422A will have 17" sleeves or more as per amendment 1 Oct 1940, for the M422A.

 

[Erwin]

THX Mark!

 

[Chandler]

Also looks like remnants of a tag (size?) below the cleaning instructions.

 

[Bennarion]

No pic of the manufacturer's tag?

Gets fuzzy when I blow up the full-size jacket image.

Wait a minute -- manufacturer tag in the whole jacket image, but looks removed in the cleaning instructions pic. Or two different jackets?

This tag was sewn there by hand to close the hole

 

[Erwin]

Added a picture of stitching on the collar made some leather gimps happier. Interesting piece, I believe this puts mall jackets [like this one] in a better light.