M422 best manufacturer

Discussion in 'Reproduction manufacturers' started by Thomas Koehle, Apr 27, 2018.

  1. Roughwear

    Roughwear Well-Known Member

    Andy is not a member here as far as I know. He is on TFL.
     
  2. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Well-Known Member

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    1,126
    Hi Otter

    The A-2 isn't a jacket that breaks down into equal timed parts, vital to good production line.
    Taking an educated guess I'd have thought WW2 jackets were made in these stages, the ones in bold were probably, but not neccessarily, done by the one operative working on two or three jackets at a time

    Leather Cut for individual jackets
    Lining cut, batches of at least 200 at a time
    Lining sewn by Lining Machinist
    Body Shell completed and lining fitted up to knit stage
    Knits fitted on different machine
    Jacket closed
    Turned through, "closed" and ready for top stitch by non sewer, odd job guy.
    Top Stitch done
    Studding and neck hook fitted
    QC Check

    Eight operatives in total?
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2018
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  3. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Well-Known Member

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    I do hope I'm not the "Ken" you suggest to be AKA Ole?
     
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  4. Carl

    Carl Well-Known Member

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    956
    Can anybody enlighten me as to whats going on ?? is this just one disgruntled ex member wanting to stir up trouble ? its been an enjoyable read thats for sure ! not giggled so much for a while , while reading a thread !:D
     
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  5. Otter

    Otter Member

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    355
    Thanks Ken, satisfied my curiosity, sub-assembly!
     
  6. Roughwear

    Roughwear Well-Known Member


    Hahaha! Of course not.
     
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  7. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Well-Known Member

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    1,126
    That's pretty much how we worked on Levi Vintage contracts with painting, washing, aging and drying thrown in.
    I very much doubt it would work on much less than 500 identical pieces
     
    Roughwear likes this.
  8. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Well-Known Member

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    1,126
    I should have made it clear that these figures are for The A-2
    USN Jackets, due to the complexity of the design, could be broken down into far more operatives and the general better quality sewing of the originals suggest that was probably the case. For instance a USN lining will take at least 4 times as long to cut and sew than an A-2.
    The lack of nessesity to match the leather would also help in the setting up of a proper production line.
    It would have also helped that goat skins always match each far better than even both ends of the same horse front quarter
     
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  9. DiamondDave

    DiamondDave Active Member

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    713
    Location:
    Tulsa, OK

    Funny how his IP puts him in Greece, wonder who that could be? Underhand much?

    DD
     
  10. Carl

    Carl Well-Known Member

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    Blimey , the investigation is like somthing from NCIS ! how did you get his IP address ??
     
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  11. Roughwear

    Roughwear Well-Known Member

    Very underhand indeed I should say Dave.:rolleyes:
     
    DiamondDave likes this.
  12. Otter

    Otter Member

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    355
    Interesting Ken, more complex but potentially a faster production due to the ease of breaking down the steps ?
     
  13. Ken at Aero Leather

    Ken at Aero Leather Well-Known Member

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    1,126
    Not necessarily quicker, probably not, but getting the body shell ready to fit the knit would should split, time-wise, into four sections, 1. Fronts, 2. Back, 3. Sleeves & Collar, and 4. puting the six sections together and attaching the pre-made liner at the same time.
    With the same small section being done over and over again by the same machinist, week in week out, the quality becomes better, more uniform and less prone to some of the dreadful sewing found on some original A-2s, Aero Beacon maybe being the worst offender, perhaps that's why they never got a M442 variant contract?
     
    johnwayne likes this.
  14. STEVE S.

    STEVE S. Active Member

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    494
    Hello everyone! Hope everybody is doing well. I haven’t been on the forums in awhile, as many of you know I have moved out of the city to the mountains which has kept me hopping for almost a year. Still trying to find things that are boxed up & remember where I put things that have been unpacked...

    After reading thru this thread, thought I would add my 2 cents in. Some of the viewpoints I agree with, some I disagree with & some leave me scratching my head. Two things my father taught me about business are always be honest & give your best effort, as in the end, all you really control 100% is your name & reputation. Second is never talk bad about competitors work in the field. I use the term competitor but don’t feel like I am competing with anyone. I got into this more to make friendships than money & have made some lasting friends out of customers. To me, that friendship holds more value than profit. With that said, I won’t be commenting on products, but more of an observation of people. First, shouldn’t the customer be the one to decide what they are happy with? It kills me with the negativity in this industry. Someone gets something they are pleased with and others are just waiting to blow it up for them. Just vicious circles, “it’s too perfect to be authentic but if it has a couple of warts, it’s shoddy workmanship.” I won’t mention names/places but have seen three types of people in this industry. First, you have the guys who are always willing to help out a friend. Be it tech info, material recommendations etc. they are always available for advice & don’t look at it as a competition. They care about people as a whole & want to help you consistently improve. I will always be grateful to those. Second, you have the ones who are like this “Platon” character, who from what I hear gets removed from forums & keeps popping back up under different names. Good thing is, they are vocal enough, you know exactly where they stand on something & how they feel. The third kind are the ones I have issues with. They play nice in public or are completely silent so nothing will reflect back on them publicly, but privately are quick to contact your customers behind your back and speak negatively about you. I consider that piss poor business ethics & in all honesty, it just reflects negatively on them. I have had a couple of these types doing this over the years & just have just brushed it off. I have learned in the last few yrs that life is short & I want to enjoy every minute of what I have left. Must be a sad, miserable existence for some with all the negativity towards others.

    Take my thoughts with a grain of salt, as I am truly a “one man operation” without a “proper” jacket factory... By the way, I asked Alexa, Siri & Google “what is a proper jacket factory?” None of the jacket manufacturers I am familiar with popped up....
     
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  15. nkang

    nkang Active Member

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    @STEVE S. Welcome back Steve! Btw, you got a great signature there about political correctness ;)
     
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  16. Silver Surfer

    Silver Surfer Well-Known Member

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    2,476
    yup, well said, open minded and with unambiguous honesty.
     
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  17. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    713
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Glad to have you back on the forum buddy! Also glad you are settled in your new place. Looking forward to many insightful discussions in the future.

    All The Best,
    - Jay
     
  18. Brettafett

    Brettafett Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    794
    Location:
    LONDON
    Very well said @STEVE S., couldn't agree more. Please keep up the insanely good work (art) you are doing...
    Loved your comment, “it’s too perfect to be authentic but if it has a couple of warts, it’s shoddy workmanship.” so absolutely true.
     
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  19. Grant

    Grant Well-Known Member

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    1,311
    Hey Steve, thanks for the wise words and good to see you're back on the forum.
    Just last night I cranked up the AC and was wearing the ANJ3a you restored for me years ago!
     
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  20. johnwayne

    johnwayne Well-Known Member

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    1,345
    Ken dear boy, can I just say how much I appreciate you sharing your years of knowledge, very enlightening I must say and if ever I thought about attempting to make a jacket then you've totally put me off, I'll leave 'to those who know' like your good self and the rest of 'the few'!!
     
    Ken at Aero Leather likes this.

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