Looks Like AVI is Back in the Game!

[pierregloom]

I concur with some of Enigmas thoughts on the jacket.
Namely the left pocket should be wider for a G&F, the leather could be slightly thicker, missing the stitching below the fur collar and the hang tag should be sewn at the neck join.

The back panel is sometimes sewn over the front panels and sometimes its the other way round. You can find originals of both variations. I think AVI followed their original.

I had emailed AVI after reading the above (my jacket was already on the way) and asked them to check these details. Im not sure if it was this or if Enigma also contacted them, but I received a brief reply to say that these issues would be updated on future jackets.
So, if you order a 38 Pierre, it should be the 'updated' version. I'd check with Morten before you order.

Okay thanks, I'll check that ! (I've asked him directly if it would be the case).
According to the sizing chart, 38 is really close to the jacket I measured before my first order, some measures corresponding to the 40, other to 38, I should have listened to you saying it could be an option ordering 2 sizes !
I'd say 40 fits me 'the confortable way' or a bit loose, 38 would be more tight may be.

 

[B-Man2]

Brett
Is there a better email address available for contacting AVI or Morten? I emailed them about two weeks ago with questions, but I never received a response.

 

[Greg Gale]

@Brettafett that’s a WIN! Looks great on you! Looking forward to the detailed review, and please compare it to your first edition avi g-1.

 

[Brettafett]

Brett
Is there a better email address available for contacting AVI or Morten? I emailed them about two weeks ago with questions, but I never received a response.

Hey Burt, happy new year! This is one I use... [email protected]

 

[Brettafett]

@Brettafett that’s a WIN! Looks great on you! Looking forward to the detailed review, and please compare it to your first edition avi g-1.

Thanks Greg, yes Im pleased. Im going to give it a better going over this weekend. Really, its fine for what it is... Very comfy. But I want to check the details more thoroughly.
The last email I received back from Morten last week, was that he planned to update some of the details Enigma highlighted.
Its likely that all jackets being made going forward would have 'some' of these updates, but I hope he doesn't change too much. He has not sold this as a stitch for stitch accurate copy of a G&F, generic label etc... so some creative license could be granted.
But I get the impression, he wants it to be as good as it can be.

 

[B-Man2]

Hey Burt, happy new year! This is one I use... [email protected]

Thanks Brett

 

[pierregloom]

Looking at my jacket, I've noticed that we can see something through the lining, depending on the light, and I didn't know what it could be...
And scrolling on an old thread of the Fedora Lounge, it's the same as on the Bill Kelso M422-A jacket : the elastic back straps.
Look like I've learned one more thing .
Is this what makes the bi-swing fold in its place ?

 

[B-Man2]

Looking at my jacket, I've noticed that we can see something through the lining, depending on the light, and I didn't know what it could be...
And scrolling on an old thread of the Fedora Lounge, it's the same as on the Bill Kelso M422-A jacket : the elastic back straps.
Look like I've learned one more thing .
Is this what makes the bi-swing fold in its place ?

Yes ….. the elastic straps are what eventually stretch out or give way, when the bi-swing back just hangs open and doesn’t come back into the crease when you relax or take the jacket off . They can be replaced but it involves opening up the lining and replacing them .

 

[pierregloom]

Yes ….. the elastic straps are what eventually stretch out or give way, when the bi-swing back just hangs open and doesn’t come back into the crease when you relax or take the jacket off . They can be replaced but it involves opening up the lining and replacing them .

Thanks @B-Man2

 

[Enigma1938]

Good news,
I mailed with Morten because of my messed up M422 and he was very understanding and was willed to take the jacket back. So it's on its way back to Denmark.
Morten also told me that he really appreciate my feedback (and ours here) to understand and improve his jackets.
He's a good guy !

 

[B-Man2]

Glad to hear this. Nothing gives a buyer more confidence than knowing that he can return a jacket that he has issues with. This kind of response from a seller will also benefit his business in the long run.Is Morten going to send you an improved version of the M-422a ? If so I’m sure several of us would like to see it and to learn about those improvements.
Cheers

 

[Brettafett]

I also had an email. All M-422As going forward will incl some of those updates (omissions) highlighted by Enigma.
They're also going to work in a slightly thicker leather.

 

[B-Man2]

That’s one of the reasons to avoid purchasing the first generation of any new repro jacket. Always wait until some of the bugs are ironed out in the follow up jackets .

 

[Greg Gale]

Kudos to Morten, great attitude! Now I'm tempted again

 

[Brettafett]

Haha Burt, yes... And I tend to let my curiosity an enthusiasm get the better of me.
But its all good. Morten is replacing my jacket also, so in a few weeks we will see.

 

[Enigma1938]

Hi all, after reading this thread, I‘m thinking about buying my first m-422 / G1. As this will be my frist navy flight jacket, I don’t want start with an high end repro. Reading the posts here is AVi (for this kind jackets) a bit better than 5star? Next question: as AVI offers both jackets (m422 and an early g1) - which one is more accurate? as the price difference is quite impress between those two - are there any quality issues I should be aware of?
thanks
peter

Well for now their G1 is the more accurate (don't know if they still have the original maker label). Have one from AVI since two years and I love that jacket. Can't say that AVI is better than 5* because at least at 5* it depends exactly on what you want from Shawn, you can customize nearly everything on their jackets. At AVI you can at least customize the sizing.
Over all they are both in the same class.

 

[Brettafett]

Hi Peter,

I don't want to get into a "who's better between 5* and AVI", there are proponents of both camps, and a number of reviews of both makers' jackets on the forum already.
Both companies will offer a level of customisation, at no extra cost, probably more so with Shawn. AVI's jackets are returnable, unless customised.
Its worth mentioning that both AVI's 55J14 and M-422A are copied/ based off originals in their collection.
5*s USN jackets are roughly based off AVI's first repro 55J14 G-1 (this may have changed recently, so am happy for the guys to correct me there). But this goes back a few years.

Accuracy is a relative term... Especially at this price point.There more 'accurate' you go, the higher the price is going to go, so it depends what detailing you're after and how high your expectations are.

That said... Ill offer the following, having owned almost ever iteration of AVI's jacket since they first started making flight jacket repros.

All AVIs jackets are copied off original jackets, so the patterns are relatively authentic (size grading aside...) - I wear size 42 originals, A-2 and USN and true to form, I wear a 42 in AVI's jackets.
The materials are good enough for a decent, hard-wearing jacket (Ive replaced the knit in the past to take the detailing up a notch, but this is no longer necessary)

The 55J14 is an early G-1 pattern. It tends to have wider shoulders, and a narrow torso, so its better for the trim/ athletic among us.
The M-422A, copied off their G&F, is a more well-rounded sensible pattern, its also slightly longer all-round, so may fit better.

I really like both jackets. I found the G-1 a touch short for my liking (although totally authentic, and I find most G-1s short), I reviewed mine a few years back.
I recently received the M-422A (pics posted previously), and despite some 'cosmetic detailing', which is being corrected for subsequent jackets... the jacket is really nice. Its super comfortable, fits well and the profile is sharp, classic G&F. (Ive owned an original WW2 FO M-422A and a repro ELC G&F M422A, among others for comp)

The 'cosmetic detailing' being updated, are things like widening the left pocket (unique G&F feature), moving the hanger tab up into the neckline, an extra row of stitching below the collar and on the pocket. I believe they are also going to use a slightly thicker leather. So... details... But certainly makes for better 'accuracy'.
This is great, but even without the updates, doesn't detract from a perfectly decent, M-422A repro (they could have said it was their house jacket, interpretation...)

AVI appears to be opting for generic labels, maybe to save costs, maybe so as not to claim to produce a 100% accurate repro of a specific contract... I dont know.

Personally, Id recommend the M-442A - Its a comfortable, easy to wear pattern, and I doubt you'll find a better, more accurate M-422A repro at this price.
If you want to hold on for a couple of weeks, they are sending me the updated jacket with the above details, and you can see it then.

Either way, if you order a regular size jacket, its fully returnable. In the past, Ive ordered two jackets, two sizes... And returns/ refunds have been easy.

 

[mulceber]

5*s USN jackets are roughly based off AVI's first repro 55J14 G-1 (this may have changed recently, so am happy for the guys to correct me there). But this goes back a few years.

Just a minor correction - that was and is true for a number of Shawn's Navy jackets, but he actually has acquired several originals in recent months, including an American Sportswear AN-6552. So he's got an original to take a pattern from for at least some of his Navy offerings.

 

[Brettafett]

That would certainly be worth looking at also.

 

[Enigma1938]

I also had an email. All M-422As going forward will incl some of those updates (omissions) highlighted by Enigma.
They're also going to work in a slightly thicker leather.

How good are the chances that they will indeed make their jackets from thicker leather and when will that process start?
If they do this and if they could improve some of the details I think I would order a M422a again