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interview with our own John Chapman
- Thread starter SuinBruin
- Start date
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
I still say the label producer is the biggest craftsman of all.... 
Great stuff...
Great stuff...galvestonokie
Active Member
this is one of (if not most) the informative pieces on jackets I've seen. for example:
1. use of Vaseline v. Pecards--how many posts over the years about what to use. also, vaseline is a lot easier to find;
2. the description of WWII production--priceless. most manufacturers were trying to combine style with ease of production (and cost) while we debate the design of A-2 jacekts;
3. the use of old v. modern sewing machines;
4. the washing of leather and of the chemicals contained;
5. and much, much more.
guarantee i will read again and again.
Bob
1. use of Vaseline v. Pecards--how many posts over the years about what to use. also, vaseline is a lot easier to find;
2. the description of WWII production--priceless. most manufacturers were trying to combine style with ease of production (and cost) while we debate the design of A-2 jacekts;
3. the use of old v. modern sewing machines;
4. the washing of leather and of the chemicals contained;
5. and much, much more.
guarantee i will read again and again.
Bob
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
It's funny that an item based on quantity and lowest possible price has transitioned to what it has today... Imagine if someone out there had a box of unissued A-2s stashed away? Any contract, any maker? Think I might ponder this as I drift off to sleep tonight...
FlyingYankee
Active Member
Wow, The jackets are truly a bargain when one knows what goes into making one. I think I'll get in line for a Perry.
a2jacketpatches
Active Member
I'm getting my application in now to be JC's Padawan.
tonyknowles
Member
a true craftsman.
TankBuster
Active Member
Very nice article! Congrats to JC as well!
derleicaman
Member
That was a great article and a good read, too.
I had discussed with John some time back how certain repro makers did their jackets and John described it as a "tube construction", meaning the torso of the jacket was shaped like a cylinder and this was the reason why their jackets didn't look right when worn. I had been discussing my fit problems with two famous makers repros and this was John's explanation as to why I was having a problem. I had noticed this while out and about with my wife one day while she was clothes shopping and I of course had to sneak a look at myself in one of the full-length mirrors in the store in my Brand A jacket and was not happy with what I saw as far as fit went. Before this, I had been perfectly happy with jackets on the hanger and in my hands. Other repro makers do the same basic shell and then add "correct" to contract bits like zips, pocket and pocket flaps, epps, labels and collars. I liken this to a Mr. Potato Head approach to production. Basic body and then tack the parts on to make it "look" right. This is probably OK for the average punter, but once you study these jackets by visiting here and reading books like the one ELC put out on the A-2, you really appreciate what John does. There are so many details specific to each contract and manufacturer that John captures to perfection. It's not just the right zips and pockets shapes and labels, but all the little details of construction that no one ever sees that John is working on that I'm sure others miss. Sort of like the movie director who insists his actors wear the proper undergarments for the period under the costumes. Who else sees it, but the clothing from 100 or 200 years ago was different and you had to adapt to it, not the other way around. It changes the way you move and act. Are the other guys just lazy or are they just trying to pump numbers (volume) with no regard to details or getting it right? It amazes me that ELC can "write the book" on A-2's down to testing the DNA, but still can't get it right like John does every time. I appreciate this every time I wear one of my many different GW jackets.
I would welcome the idea of a "house" pattern from John, made by an apprentice or employee for a lower price point. It could be made in cow hide or as John used to call it "Battle Cattle" to save on price and it would still be correct to WWII standards. After all, the originals were not made to measure either and that is what we are all worshipping and obsessing on, isn't it? Price them around $ 800 - $ 900 and 2-4 week wait time and you have a winner! I applaud John for getting the prices he does on the for his masterpieces. Others such as Real McCoys and The Few get those prices or even more. John's are better, so why not? Factor in the burn-out of being a slave to catching up with a 1 1/2 year waiting list, customers constantly changing their minds on hides and patterns, etc. and a two tiered approach for a business model makes a lot of sense. Put yourself in his shoes and you would do the same, I wager.
I had discussed with John some time back how certain repro makers did their jackets and John described it as a "tube construction", meaning the torso of the jacket was shaped like a cylinder and this was the reason why their jackets didn't look right when worn. I had been discussing my fit problems with two famous makers repros and this was John's explanation as to why I was having a problem. I had noticed this while out and about with my wife one day while she was clothes shopping and I of course had to sneak a look at myself in one of the full-length mirrors in the store in my Brand A jacket and was not happy with what I saw as far as fit went. Before this, I had been perfectly happy with jackets on the hanger and in my hands. Other repro makers do the same basic shell and then add "correct" to contract bits like zips, pocket and pocket flaps, epps, labels and collars. I liken this to a Mr. Potato Head approach to production. Basic body and then tack the parts on to make it "look" right. This is probably OK for the average punter, but once you study these jackets by visiting here and reading books like the one ELC put out on the A-2, you really appreciate what John does. There are so many details specific to each contract and manufacturer that John captures to perfection. It's not just the right zips and pockets shapes and labels, but all the little details of construction that no one ever sees that John is working on that I'm sure others miss. Sort of like the movie director who insists his actors wear the proper undergarments for the period under the costumes. Who else sees it, but the clothing from 100 or 200 years ago was different and you had to adapt to it, not the other way around. It changes the way you move and act. Are the other guys just lazy or are they just trying to pump numbers (volume) with no regard to details or getting it right? It amazes me that ELC can "write the book" on A-2's down to testing the DNA, but still can't get it right like John does every time. I appreciate this every time I wear one of my many different GW jackets.
I would welcome the idea of a "house" pattern from John, made by an apprentice or employee for a lower price point. It could be made in cow hide or as John used to call it "Battle Cattle" to save on price and it would still be correct to WWII standards. After all, the originals were not made to measure either and that is what we are all worshipping and obsessing on, isn't it? Price them around $ 800 - $ 900 and 2-4 week wait time and you have a winner! I applaud John for getting the prices he does on the for his masterpieces. Others such as Real McCoys and The Few get those prices or even more. John's are better, so why not? Factor in the burn-out of being a slave to catching up with a 1 1/2 year waiting list, customers constantly changing their minds on hides and patterns, etc. and a two tiered approach for a business model makes a lot of sense. Put yourself in his shoes and you would do the same, I wager.
2BM2K
Well-Known Member
An interesting problem.
In a mass production enviroment the process would need to be quick, simple and 100% effective or else change the shape of the collar point.
The only idea I can think of is to use an air-line and give it a quirk squirt of air.
Have a jig to hold the nozzle and a foot operated switch for the air release. Partly turn the collar point hold it over the nozzle and release the air.
A bit like blowing up a balloon.
