Inside an A-2

[fishmeok]

Thought some of you might find this interesting. I took some pics of the last practice piece as I made it. This is the bottom right corner, with the waistband and a shirt piece to represent the zipper.

First pic: The bottom of the right (non-windflap) side of the jacket is five pieces, the bottom leather piece, knit, liner, front panel, and zipper. This is the first step, sewing the knit to the bottom piece. Note that everything is constructed inside out, which is difficult to visualize until you do it several times. The knit is sewn onto the right side of the leather, with the wrong side up, and the presser foot set as light as it will go to prevent the knit riding up:

This is what it looks like turned right side-out:

Then the body to the bottom piece- again sewn right side to right side:

Unfolded:

The liner is sewn on to the bottom piece in the same way- here shown wrong side up after completion. All the inside seam allowances are laid flat back against themselves, and I use a dab of glue to hold them in place. Note also the material removed from the seam allowance on top where the pieces join up. This area will fold back over itself, and if I don't trim them out it would be too bulky for my machine to handle.

Next I fold the material face to face and place my fake zipper in- again since this is going to be turned rightside out the zipper has to be positioned so that the INNER edge is flush with the OUTER edge in the picture, or otherwise positioned as far as you want the zipper to stick out.

The inner seam is sewn with the piece inside out, one stitch line from top to bottom. This is where the material pivots rightside out.

And turned rightside out:

Last the top stitching. I sewed this with the leather side up- notice how it rolled under down by where all the pieces match up. Part of that is the light crappy leather I'm using, but most of it is a pure lack of skill. It's very difficult to keep the leather folded tight against the inside seam:

Cheers
Mark

 

[Falcon_52]

Mark:

Thanks for taking the time to take all of those pictures and post them. It's very interesting to see how the different pieces go together. Your stitching doesn't look too bad though...I think you are ready to make a real jacket.

By the way, what kind of a sewing machine are you using for this?

Regards,

Noel

 

[fishmeok]

I have a late '40's Necci BU that works pretty well, it would be nice to have something designed for this, but I don't have the space for a full-on industrial. Most of the issues can be worked around now that I have the tensioning etc. figured out, but their is still a feed problem, I have to be very careful when I come to places where there are multiple layers, or the presser foot will bog down. Someday I'd like to get something with a real walking foot, which feeds the material from the top and bottom.

I don't feel anywhere near confident enough to build a full jacket yet, I haven't even tried to make a collar or epaulet. might have to try that this weekend. Also sleeves...
Cheers
Mark

 

[zoomer]

You say your topstitching rolled under? Looks fine to me.

I would think the need to build everything inside out would make certain after market mods nearly impossible, especially if they involve undoing part of a leather/leather seam.

 

[fishmeok]

Hi
I read a couple books about sewing when I was trying to figure this out- "right side" is the outside of the fabric, the side that shows, "wrong side" is the inside.

The topstiching problem is more apparent when you are looking at it for real- what happened was the leather has to fold over hard at that hidden stitching line, and if it starts to slack the top sticthes go all wonky on the other (lining) side. I had to change direction a little bit halfway through and lost the tight fold.

I'm using John's Dubow as my construction model, but I've notice that not everybody used this hidden line of stitching. My Cooper has it, my two W&G coats do not. The difference is VERY apparent when you compare the two- the W&G is not nearly as "tight" looking in the material folds. The hard part is doing all this inside out and then pulling the jacket right side out through as small a hole as possible in the armpit of the lining.
Cheers
Mark

 

[better duck]

Great post, Mark!
Very interesting to see how much thinking and solving all kinds of practical problems go into the making of a relatively (or should one say deviously) simple design such as our A2s. Keep us posted on your progress!

 

[Anonymous]

when you see what goes into making a jacket you appreciate what Chapman has done.

 

[zoomer]

Yes, it presents the kind of problems that you can't solve by ingenuity alone. You have to have it in the hands, and it only gets there by screwups and headaches and wasted time and material, and willingness to repeat same indefinitely. The stuff that can't be taught, only learned = that makes craft.