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How would you restore this AN-J-3A? Would you? Who does it well?

Does the petroleum jelly (or anything like it) just temporarily condition the leather or does it actually permanently improve it?
 

Micawber

Well-Known Member
The topic of leather treatment and the pros and cons of various products has been done to death a number of times on here in the past, it's all here several times over but the nature of online forums means subjects are cyclical.

Climatic conditions need to be considered (temperatures and humidity levels in your region).

Problems generally occur after over use over time and being too liberal with quantities.

Some things can rot stitching. A friend of mine is a top leather craftsman, he shuns neatsfoot oil saying it swells leather fibres and rots thread.

I could go on. I have posted about my preferred products in the past so don't need to do so again.
 

Southoftheborder

Well-Known Member
Yes it has been done to death on this and other forums. I've tried almost every type of leather treatment known to man and I think there really isn't much to choose between them by and large. In general creams like the old Connolly's Hide Food work best for aniline leathers, and heavily pigmented hide can take pretty much anything. I've used petroleum jelly on anything from walking boots to sheepskin and it works fine - as does dubbin and other things.

As regards neatsfoot oil it has a bad rep IMO. Blended neatsfoot oil contains mineral oils to keep in usable at low temperatures and it's that which can rot thread. But pure neatsfoot oil doesn't, and it won't rot thread. Horween use it in their finishing for CXL, and Chuck Horween has recommended a little pure neatfoot oil for conditioning products made from CXL in his blog.
 

flyincowboy

Well-Known Member
If me a gently wash with warm water /saddle soap to clean the leather and then SAPO / RENAPUR nothing more. we do that all the time at the shop on old leather goods.
baume-renapur-220ml.jpg

creme-entretien-cuir-nutritive-200-ml-sapo.jpg
 
Someone just posted this in a group. This is a good example of what I thought should be done to the leather, though it’s gone a bit too shiny for my taste. But it’s very close.
EECC0439-9CA1-4987-8FBD-560D0E45FEC7.jpeg

They used Obernaufs and URAD dark brown. Basically one notch before this level of restoration/polish is what I was envisioning. Your thoughts as always are welcome!
 

JonnyCrow

Well-Known Member
The topic of leather treatment and the pros and cons of various products has been done to death a number of times on here in the past, it's all here several times over but the nature of online forums means subjects are cyclical.

Climatic conditions need to be considered (temperatures and humidity levels in your region).

Problems generally occur after over use over time and being too liberal with quantities.

Some things can rot stitching. A friend of mine is a top leather craftsman, he shuns neatsfoot oil saying it swells leather fibres and rots thread.

I could go on. I have posted about my preferred products in the past so don't need to do so again.
Neatsfoot yeah I wouldn't touch that with a bargepole Steve, I agree what your saying though
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Good result with that jacket.
I would not add any coloring to that original AN jacket though. You will see a lot of darkening of those lighter areas with just conditioner.

You will have to see what you got. I would at minimum take a bowl of warm water and two soft cloths. Gently wipe with warm water in small sections and immediately dry it off with the other dry cloth. You don't want to keep it too wet for too long. Wring out that wet cloth in the bowl and see how dirty the water is. If it's dirty, you would want to wipe the whole jacket before conditioning.

The last thing you want to do is lock in a bunch of dirt under a layer of conditioner.

There are great leather soaps but it may not be necessary. Go the least invasive route possible.

Oh yeah, also, if a hide is so dry that is seems like it's going to crack just condition it. DO NOT PUT WATER ON IT.
 
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