• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

GW USN jacket choices

Sideslip

Well-Known Member
First off, a hello and very belated best wishes to all as I have been tied up with a bunch of alternately good and tricky family and work pre-occupations. I have been reading the odd forum post though, just not been active. I would say that some of the posts made me smile when I was not otherwise so inclined due to the other stuff so thank you for that!

At some point in the next 6-9 or so months, my GW 'ticket' should hopefully come up. I actually have two deposits down, but a year apart. I currently have a GW Monarch m422 picked up from the sale page which is awesome. The more I wear it, the more it seems to evolve in subtle character. (Un)fortunately, triggered by the lockdowns and hitting 50 last year, I have been exercising and have slightly changed shape resulting in the jacket being too tight in the chest. Therefore, I am thinking over the different USN jacket options and working to narrow that down.

One of the things I really like about the Monarch m422 is the scalloped pocket flaps and chiseled pocket bottom together with the spacing from the zipper. That and the collar are probably the two most visible differences between other USN jackets so I am focusing (slightly obsessing?) about that as an initial differentiator. The m422 collars are quite pointed but while a Cagleco G-1 is very sharp and appealing the collar (and most of the post 1951 jackets) have very rounded collars - something in between is perhaps ideal, with an athletic but functional cut.

So my long short list for a jacket in my measurements is as follows (not necessarily in an order of preference):
1) Monarch or Willis & Geiger m422
2) Willis & Chapman ANJ3A https://goodwearleather.com/WC_ANJ3A_44_Horween/WWII_USNavy_Jacket.jpg
3) Aviator Clothing Company 55J14 https://goodwearleather.com/2022_Aviators_G1/Aviators_G1_55J14.jpg
4) Foster 55J14 https://goodwearleather.com/NewGoat_Foster_55J14/55J14_G1_Foster.jpg
5) Star 55J14 https://www.goodwearleather.com/2020_Star_G1_44/Star_Sportswear_G1.jpg
6) Monarch 7823 [I saw an image of @Chandler's original from JC's CD but don't know if JC makes one].

If I leave aside the m422's, 2), 4) and 6) stand out to me.

JC apparently has a new goatskin source as well.

I have re-re-re-read the excellent 'better fighting garment' compendium and spent a fair amount of time browsing the images there and elsewhere and ultimately re-watched The Bridges at Toko Ri and Devotion as erm, research :p. In order to get me out of this introspective cycle, I thought I would open this up to the forum knowledge. Ultimately, I know I will be happy with whatever I choose, but unlike the servicemen of the 40's and 50's, I have the luxury of choice and not just what is issued to me :).
 

mulceber

Moderator
I think either the Foster or the Aviator Clothing Co. are really cool (I'm particularly fond of "Aviator," because it used to be Aero Leather Clothing), but one thought I had is why not ask John what contract would be really good for someone with a slightly bulkier upper body (congratulations on getting in shape, btw!)?
 

mulceber

Moderator
Yeah, I'm hesitant to recommend buying a 7823 repro, just because there are still great originals available. 55J14s on the other hand are a little rarer and more expensive. And when you find them, they're less likely to be in great condition.
 
Last edited:

Sideslip

Well-Known Member
Thanks @mulceber , good point. I did ask John for his thoughts and I will no doubt hear from him when he has a moment. As to the "bulkier", I don't want to give the wrong impression that I have suddenly transformed, I would just say that my posture is improved as well as general fitness and slouching less, plus some weight loss. If I stop wine entirely, then that would also help!

@MaydayWei @Brettafett - good point about the 7823's and maybe I will see if I can find an original Monarch in my size. As to your other preferences and @YoungMedic - why do you suggest those specific manufacturers for 55J14s?
 

YoungMedic

Well-Known Member
There's just something about those Star jackets, the pocket flaps, collar, proportions they just jump out at me. I think Star Sportswear in general made some of the better design of jackets from the A2 to the G1, I have a late 40's 55J14 and a 7823 from them and they are both terrific fit and wear. If you're looking for althletic and comfortable, Star should definitely be at the top of your list
 

TWU

Member
if you are size 44 (the jacket marks size 46)
you should check out this one on ebay
and buy direct from Bevan
best for your buck
RMNZ G-1

got mine earlier this month
super deal
don't buy on ebay
he is also a member here
 

Attachments

  • 8514.jpg
    8514.jpg
    190.1 KB · Views: 63

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
First off, a hello and very belated best wishes to all as I have been tied up with a bunch of alternately good and tricky family and work pre-occupations. I have been reading the odd forum post though, just not been active. I would say that some of the posts made me smile when I was not otherwise so inclined due to the other stuff so thank you for that!

At some point in the next 6-9 or so months, my GW 'ticket' should hopefully come up. I actually have two deposits down, but a year apart. I currently have a GW Monarch m422 picked up from the sale page which is awesome. The more I wear it, the more it seems to evolve in subtle character. (Un)fortunately, triggered by the lockdowns and hitting 50 last year, I have been exercising and have slightly changed shape resulting in the jacket being too tight in the chest. Therefore, I am thinking over the different USN jacket options and working to narrow that down.

One of the things I really like about the Monarch m422 is the scalloped pocket flaps and chiseled pocket bottom together with the spacing from the zipper. That and the collar are probably the two most visible differences between other USN jackets so I am focusing (slightly obsessing?) about that as an initial differentiator. The m422 collars are quite pointed but while a Cagleco G-1 is very sharp and appealing the collar (and most of the post 1951 jackets) have very rounded collars - something in between is perhaps ideal, with an athletic but functional cut.

So my long short list for a jacket in my measurements is as follows (not necessarily in an order of preference):
1) Monarch or Willis & Geiger m422
2) Willis & Chapman ANJ3A https://goodwearleather.com/WC_ANJ3A_44_Horween/WWII_USNavy_Jacket.jpg
3) Aviator Clothing Company 55J14 https://goodwearleather.com/2022_Aviators_G1/Aviators_G1_55J14.jpg
4) Foster 55J14 https://goodwearleather.com/NewGoat_Foster_55J14/55J14_G1_Foster.jpg
5) Star 55J14 https://www.goodwearleather.com/2020_Star_G1_44/Star_Sportswear_G1.jpg
6) Monarch 7823 [I saw an image of @Chandler's original from JC's CD but don't know if JC makes one].

If I leave aside the m422's, 2), 4) and 6) stand out to me.

JC apparently has a new goatskin source as well.

I have re-re-re-read the excellent 'better fighting garment' compendium and spent a fair amount of time browsing the images there and elsewhere and ultimately re-watched The Bridges at Toko Ri and Devotion as erm, research :p. In order to get me out of this introspective cycle, I thought I would open this up to the forum knowledge. Ultimately, I know I will be happy with whatever I choose, but unlike the servicemen of the 40's and 50's, I have the luxury of choice and not just what is issued to me :).
I have an original Vietnam era 1973 Star G-1 in a Size 42, that’s available . If you have an interest in it PM me.
 

mulceber

Moderator
D’oh! This is what I get for typing late at night. Was trying to type “you won’t regret getting a jacket from Burt.” :eek:
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Just re-reading this.

I wonder... It's still possible to find original G-1s in decent condition (may need some patience, refurb or tlc, but for the right jacket, worth it).
M-422/ M-422As are harder to come by in decent, wearable condition.

I'd get an M-422 from John.
 
Top