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Good Wear 1936 Werber?

foster

Well-Known Member
Made to the customers measurements. That’s how GW usually makes them.
I like extra sleeve length myself. I know it’s not quite like most of the originals, but even though Jimmy Stewart’s A-2 was a little short in the sleeves for him, I lack his charisma to make up for it.
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
I haven't measured my GW sleeves (yet), but they're long on me -- it's the one feature that's making me prep for sale.

I'll try to pull out a tape today.

I wonder if the seller measured in the VLJ manner?
 

foster

Well-Known Member
Since horsehide sleeves tend to shorten from wrinkles and creases at the elbows as they wear, I always have to keep in mind that the sleeves should be longer than needed when new. I’ve had some that were perfect length to begin with, only to be a bit shorter than I wanted once they broke in.
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
Since horsehide sleeves tend to shorten from wrinkles and creases at the elbows as they wear...
I've honestly never experienced this. My ELC 1401 is over 20 years old and hasn't wrinkled enough to shorten the sleeve length.

To my GW -- it's very broken in and no wrinkling is going to make it fit right. Can't honestly tell what hide it is -- steer or horse.

I have the feeling the first owner was custom fitted.
 

foster

Well-Known Member
It sounds like it was custom fitted. Tailor-made to the buyer is the GW standard.
At least sleeves can be shortened. My problem is usually that I can't lengthen them to where they work for me.
 

Chandler

Well-Known Member
At least sleeves can be shortened.
I toyed with the idea, but I don't have a tailor I'd trust with leather and I'm afraid of mucking up a perfectly good jacket.

I honestly think it's my short arms, or weird patterns from repro manufacturers because I have the problem with a lot of repro jackets... but not so much modern manufacture. Evolution? ;)
 

leper-colony

Well-Known Member
I toyed with the idea, but I don't have a tailor I'd trust with leather and I'm afraid of mucking up a perfectly good jacket.

I honestly think it's my short arms, or weird patterns from repro manufacturers because I have the problem with a lot of repro jackets... but not so much modern manufacture. Evolution? ;)
What is your dress shirt sleeve length?
 

mulceber

Moderator
I can't imagine the 22" armpit to armpit measurement being correct for a tagged size 44. That leaves zero room for ease of fit.

I can. There are some makers who treat the size label as being the same as the pit-to-pit measurement. Not everyone does sizing in the (frankly more authentic, imho) way that Eastman and BK do.
 
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Chandler

Well-Known Member
For reference: the 46 GW "house" label I have measures 26.5" shoulder seam to end of cuff knit on both sleeves (yes, measured per VLJ instructions).

Pit-to-pit across the front measures 24.375".

As long as I dug it out I'll try to get some pictures.
 

foster

Well-Known Member
I can. There are some makers who treat the size label as being the same as the pit-to-pit measurement. Not everyone does sizing in the (frankly more authentic, imho) way that Eastman and BK do.
Well, from what I know, GW doesn't make them like that unless the original contractor in 1932-1943 did them in this manner.
 

mulceber

Moderator
eh, honestly, I've seen plenty of GW jackets with unusual sizing. One time when I asked him a sizing question and told him my chest measurement is 40 inches and I normally wear a size 42 A-2 jacket, he said "ah-hah, so your a true 42." That is, not what he would normally call a 42. None of this is a slight on the quality of his jackets at all (I'd have to be mad to do that. He knows more about these jackets than I or probably any of us ever will). JC just has his own way of determining size, that's all.
 
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