French cyclist jacket (Hartmann jacket) by Pilot

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
That's it, I got my "Hartmann" jacket ! :)
It is absolutely sublime ! I was hoping for something very beautiful, and I must admit that it is even better...
I will give you my impressions in detail later. For the moment here are the first pictures (sorry for the quality, at night with a smartphone).
Please give me your impressions. Do you think the size fits ?

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mulceber

Well-Known Member
I think it looks like a great fit. The Hartmann jackets were really short (product of a time when everyone’s trousers were worn up by their belly buttons), so you might want to get some high-waisted trousers to go with it, but it’s a great jacket!
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much for your feedback. :)
I take the time to give you my impressions.

First of all a big thank you to Pilot. the quality of the jacket is absolutely irreproachable. Both in the choice of materials and in the fidelity to the original jacket.
You can be proud of your work (I include of course the craftsman who works with you).

The leather is fantastic. Both flexible and solid (... and how good it smells!), the zip, the buttons, the lining, everything is at the top.

It's hard for me to compare it to other equivalent products on the market because I haven't had them in my hands, but no doubt this jacket is exactly what I was looking for.


However, I think the size is not exactly right for me. I will send this jacket back to Pilot to make a custom one.
Indeed even if we do not realize it in the photos, overall the bottom of the jacket arrives at 3/4 cm above the belt (even on high waist pants). I think the sleeves could be slightly longer as well.

I know that this kind of jacket is worn short, but I am very tall and thin (I have a long bust), and I feel a bit like wearing a bolero, especially when the jacket is open.

So I prefer to wait a little longer and have a beautiful jacket that fits me perfectly.

Hartmann_size.jpg
 
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Pilot

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your feedback and comments.
For me its a perfect WW2 fit.
Sleeves and waist...
See attached photo as a general reference.
However, as agreed you can return it and place an order for a customer tailored one.
Again, thx to you and all.
C96007DC-43A7-4C77-B66A-F5C24E25020A.jpeg
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Hmm :confused: a lot of people tell me the size fits me well.
I also think it's a perfect size for ww2 standards.
I think it's hard to find pants that go well with these measurements (I don't want to wear vintage pants that go up to the belly button).
It's also difficult to wear a sweater because it looks like a skirt...
In summary I'm afraid this size will only work with vintage clothes.

You put me in doubt: do I send it back or do I keep it as is?
 

mulceber

Well-Known Member
It’s a tough situation. Any of the people here could advise on sources for vintage pants, and at a variety of price points, but if you don’t want to wear high-waisted trousers, I don’t think you’re going to get much use out of the Hartmann.
 
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dinomartino1

Well-Known Member
A high waistline on the jacket is correct.
Sleeves look right to me.
Modern cut low rise jeans with low waist will not suit any vintage flight jacket.
Look at the higher rise in the cut of the jeans in the first photo and even then the bottom is the jacket is sitting on the belt
 

mulceber

Well-Known Member
Yeah, agreed, I’m not sure just adding length will help: in order to get the length of the jacket down to where you could wear a sweater with it and not have the sweater hanging out below the hem, you would have to seriously change the proportions of the jacket. You could add a couple centimeters of length to make the style more forgiving, but I don’t think you’re going to get the Hartmann to the point where you can wear low-rise jeans with it.
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
I totally agree that my jeans in the photo don't match at all with this type of jacket. I have other pants with a higher waist but that doesn't really solve the problem in my opinion. There is still 3 cm between the jacket and the belt.
I don't want to alter the design of the jacket. But I have a long morphology compared to the norm. it may need a little adjustment to suit me.

Would 2 or 3cm more on the length and 1cm on the sleeves be a bad idea?

I will take new photos tonight with more suitable pants.

(sorry to speak in centimeters).
 

Saint-ex

Well-Known Member
Thanks to talk about centimeters... :p

By my opinion sleeves are ok, not too short. And as you are thin, torso and shoulder are for me perfect.

But yes, length is a bit short and I fully understand ths fact you don't want a perfect period repro, but a nice looking jacket to wear with your clothes.
 

mulceber

Well-Known Member
No worries, we’re all conversant in metric here.

I think you could add a couple centimeters without greatly changing the look of the jacket. As you said, after all, you are tall. Some compromising might be in order: a couple extra centimeters of length, and higher waisted pants.
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Yeah, agreed, I’m not sure just adding length will help: in order to get the length of the jacket down to where you could wear a sweater with it and not have the sweater hanging out below the hem, you would have to seriously change the proportions of the jacket. You could add a couple centimeters of length to make the style more forgiving, but I don’t think you’re going to get the Hartmann to the point where you can wear low-rise jeans with it.
I don't want to wear low rise jeans with this type of jacket. I just had these pants on when I took the photo, and it's awkward of me to have posted photos with these jeans, maybe it's just it who misled us from the start ...
Like I said, I'll post pictures tonight with more suitable pants.
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Ok I am more and more convinced that I should not modify the jacket.

I think I have to find the right pants to have a good harmony.

The question I ask myself now is:
Is this kind of jacket suitable for tall and thin people like me ?

Once again, I really love this jacket. I am incapable of having an objective opinion concerning myself, which is why your opinion is precious.

For information, my wife really likes the jacket as it is. :)
 
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