FiveStar Leather Reproduction of "A-2 Rough Wear Clothing Co. Contract 27752"

Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
Dear Respected Members and Friends

In hopes that all of you are fine, Well a Great Friend Mr. Jonathan send us an "A-2 Rough Wear Clothing Co. Contract 27752" from their acquisitions to reproduced that contract on our request, I am really Thankful to Mr. Jonathan for that. The Original WWII Jacket was not in good and wearable condition, its lining and Knitting's were completely tear off, and its bottom belt was also not original and was replaced, but we were lucky that on one of its totally tear off lining piece we found its original Label which helps a lot in reproduction of this contract, its first image when we received this you can find below
DSC_8616 copy.jpg


Its zippers Pin from one side was also disappeared so its main zip was not functional either, This Contract was made in Horsehide Leather and to make its leather from start we were looking for its exact pantone color which was hard to find from any visible places of the jacket, so we carefully separated one of its Flap just to check the exact leather color from the inner portions to copy the same
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We tanned the Horsehide exactly according to the same pantone as we find inside the flap of this jacket and best match this with the bottom side of the leather as well

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After Copying the Exact pantone color of the leather from upper and down side we carefully re stitch the Flap of the jacket at the exact place and same needle holes

After Having the leather we started working on its other materials and pattern development, Patterns developed very carefully keeping in mind all the necessary points of fitting as well as stitching.

The knitting we used in this jacket is 100% wool in Seal Brown Color That is also the best match of the jacket, its bottom belt looks replaced and is not the original knitting, instead we can find exact knitting color in the tear off form with the lining as below image

DSC_1190 copy.jpg



We try to match the best press snaps for this jacket,
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We Used The Talon Repro zipper on this jacket, The Thread color was deeply examined and matched with the original color of this jacket, Its Labels were specially made according to the exact size and details, you can find some more detailed images below

DSC_8639 copy.jpg


Some good results after gathering all the necessary materials and details you can find below

DSC_1242 copy.jpg



Some detailed and comparison images are coming in my next posts, I would Love to have your generous reviews and recommendations.

Best Regards

Shawn
 
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Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
The line on the outside of the label is missing the vertical sides.
The size tag is wrong. Roughwear used styled numbers on the tags, particularly the number four.

Fivestar label
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Original labels.

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Dear @2BM2K

Thanks for the great suggestions, and detailed analysis on the labels, Size Labels we will change according to the exact font as in the Original, as we have them in inventory as well, and regarding the Neck label in the jacket we received is as below, in which side Horizontal lines are not Visible, However its easy to improve this as well if necessary
DSC_8622 copy.jpg


Best Regards

Shawn
 

leper-colony

Well-Known Member
The line on the outside of the label is missing the vertical sides.
The size tag is wrong. Roughwear used styled numbers on the tags, particularly the number four.

Fivestar label
View attachment 63377

Original labels.

View attachment 63378

View attachment 63379

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View attachment 63381

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View attachment 63383

View attachment 63384
Wow, great examples! Even with a few with similar rolled sides, so it's correct visually at least, but probably not the overall execution.

I bet this one will be popular with customers.
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
Nice, but something seems to be wrong with the left pocket.Or is it just my perspective?
Actually I think this is a tribute to shawns ability to duplicate an original jacket and a bit of a " Damn didn't expect that" sort of thing.
Here's why.....How many times have we discussed the "wonkyness" of originaal contract WWII A2 jackets with seams and pockets out of alignment, missed stitching and lop sided collars? And didn't we always say that while that was standard production misques for wartime production jackets, if you found your new A2 having those traits, you'd not be happy as the buyer of that jacket ? Well check out the wonky pockets on the original in the photos and then look at the repro from Shawn. Its a complete match, right up to the mis alignment of the edge of the left pocket seam to the windflap. We wanted accuracy and authenticity in our repro A2 jackets, Well to my mind this is as good as it gets.:)
 

leper-colony

Well-Known Member
Actually I think this is a tribute to shawns ability to duplicate an original jacket and a bit of a " Damn didn't expect that" sort of thing.
Here's why.....How many times have we discussed the "wonkyness" of originaal contract WWII A2 jackets with seams and pockets out of alignment, missed stitching and lop sided collars? And didn't we always say that while that was standard production misques for wartime production jackets, if you found your new A2 having those traits, you'd not be happy as the buyer of that jacket ? Well check out the wonky pockets on the original in the photos and then look at the repro from Shawn. Its a complete match, right up to the mis alignment of the edge of the left pocket seam to the windflap. We wanted accuracy and authenticity in our repro A2 jackets, Well to my mind this is as good as it gets.:)
Shawn's stitching is much more consistent, lol!

When I got my Dubow from Shawn, I thought reveal on the zipper tape was too wide, but I went back to the pics of his reference jacket and it was exact to that example. The pocket flaps were a little atypical as well, but Shawn matched to example in hand very closely.

The pocket flaps do look angled, and I do not think they typically should not be.

Since the tag border is not complete (as far as I can tell) maybe fold it a bit more as on the original.

BUT I'm really linking it! Shaw has obviously put a lot of time and effort in to material and the details!
 
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leper-colony

Well-Known Member
I just popped over to JCs site and looked at his and he has one with one flap/body that is a tad wonky. This is a Fivestar topic, so not including link.
 

Sabo

Member
Sorry, how many RW 27752s were produced? I have seen that the one produced by Bill Kelso differs from this at least in the collar which is more pointed. Thank you.
Sorry for my bad english.
 

2BM2K

Well-Known Member
The pocket snap should have a dimple in the centre. The collar snap should not have dots going round the edge.
The pocket and collar snaps on originals are different, collar snap being slightly smaller. (I'm being picky, just seeing how far Fivestar can go with this.)

Collar2.jpg


RW7.jpg
 

Sabo

Member
didn't explain myself, did the production foresee sub-categories that differed in some details or was it normal that during the production there were differences due to chance?
 

leper-colony

Well-Known Member
didn't explain myself, did the production foresee sub-categories that differed in some details or was it normal that during the production there were differences due to chance?
My understanding is typically you do not see that, what you see is variation (minor anyways) from specific workers sewing the pattern.
 

Sabo

Member
Ok, but now looking better at the photo of Shaun's original it seems to me that the collar is more pointed than the reproduction
 

ties70

Well-Known Member
That is not a bad job from @Shawn Ali and the FS team...not bad at all!

I must say that the first thing that impressed me when the pics were posted, was the collar stand ... on recent jackets, for example the first "Werber inspired" jackets from FS, that detail always looked a little "rough" and "amateur"-ish... Would be great to see some closeups of the front seams, though.

As Geoff said, the United Carr snaps are slightly different, but hey...They are United Carrs!

The collar could be more pointy, as this seems to be how all other reproductions look like. But Shawn probably made a perfect copy of how a RW collar looks after 80 years, not right after production ;) . Just kidding...I think even the copied original looks a tad pointier...

The thing with FS labels is...they look slightly to yellow and bright. Originals and other makers seem to use a more golden and warmer thread.

The other thing is that they often look too dense, too tightly woven...therefore they are lacking the tiny gaps between the threads ... Does this make sense somehow?!

Finally, I wouldn't have chosen the color combination of leather and knits...but there are alternatives for lighter knits in the FS workshop, I guess.

As I said, not a bad first glimpse...

Ties
 
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