FiveStar Leather Reproduction J.A. DUBOW MFG CO. A2

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ties70

Well-Known Member
Guys,

sorry for a bit of an irritation... I was at the beach and my mobile gave up on me...

I think the last photo was from the prototype in Shawn's size.

This is the new jacket - Take a look at the knitwear: Tight and strong!:
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It's a larger size, so Shawn had somebody else to find for modelling it:

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daw

Well-Known Member
On the earlier side-by-side repro and original photos, don't the sleeve knits look a little too long on the repro relative to the original?
 

JimO

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your detailed message and concerns, I was continuously working to resolve this problem, and today I am making a new Jacket with some pattern amendments, from your images it looks like the problem arises due to two main issues, Armhole Depth which should be more relaxed and should allow some flexibility, Second problem through draping the pattern I am improving is the corners of the epaulets I am making them more in round look to avoid such problems in the future, For the better understanding what we are doing to improve things I highlighted our patterns with the Red Outlines which we are improving for a best fit and comfort
@Shawn Ali-

I (and I'm sure a lot of other members) GREATLY appreciate you listening to all of our inputs & concerns and making the jackets that we all want to buy & wear.

As you know, my main concern & disappointment has been the square/boxy shoulders on my Five Star Doninger & Werber. I am so very happy that you are making an extra effort to address & solve this problem on your version of the Dubow.

Another thing you might want to look into & consider regarding this issue is the geometry that the sleeves intersect & attach into the shoulder. On your previous jackets, the sleeves attach into the shoulder at a noticeable angle. This type of intersection, by definition, generates a corner and creates a square/boxy shoulder. A greater angle gives a more pronounced square/boxy shoulder and more bunching of material when the arms are raised.

By contrast, the sleeves on my Avirex A-2 attach directly inline with the shoulder, continuing the line/curve/shape of the shoulder/epaulet. This geometry does NOT form any sort of corner or square/boxy shoulder or create any bunching of material when the arms are raised.

Avirex_flat.jpg
Avirex_raised.jpg


I hope this input is of value and contributes to solving the square/boxy shoulder problem and helps you to make a better looking & fitting product.

I'm so very excited about this jacket and can't wait to see your next updated version.

Please don't forget to also add a "Suitable for Chest Size" measurement to your size chart. We're one step closer to placing my order and perhaps FINALLY having the perfect Five Star A-2!

Jim
 
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leper-colony

Active Member
I got a follow up e-mail early this morning from Shawn about a detail that made me notice something else in the pics that were posted here yesterday.

I was sent pics of the jacket flat with a tape measure of the dimensions and I was looking at those to confirm and the detail escaped me.

Looking at the other pics from Shawn of the jacket, that someone posted, do the pockets look too far to the outside? looking other originals/reproductions
near the same size, its looking like the pockets on this latest jacket are too far out to the sides.

I sent an e-mail to Shawn about this with some pictures to try to explain. The pictures I stitched together are not mine so I won't re-post them here.

Pockets are one of those small details where not only the shape of the pocket matters, but the the alignment on the body and how they offset from each other.

It would be helpful to get feedback from members for Shawn on this, so if you have any evidence that the alignment could improve or not, please post way! Visuals would be great.
 

mulceber

Well-Known Member
Looking at the other pics from Shawn of the jacket, that someone posted, do the pockets look too far to the outside? looking other originals/reproductions
near the same size, its looking like the pockets on this latest jacket are too far out to the sides.
Dubow pockets were wonky. As John Chapman says on his website: "The pocket position is also interesting, as Dubow would often position them with even spacing from the cut edge of the wind flap, not the zipper." I think that and the fact that your jacket's a different size from the original are what's making them look odd in the photo. But that is accurate.

edit: looking at it again, I think you're right - the pockets are spaced a bit far apart. If I had to guess, it's a problem with how Shawn scaled up the pattern from a 42 to a 46. I'm not sure what you want to do about it, but this is an issue Shawn should fix in the future.
 
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PaulD

Member
WOW! The fit and blousing around the waist looks just like LW Dubow A-2. The only difference is the wonky box stitching on the hang tab LOL, hence why it was a NOS factory second (don't laugh, it was my first real-deal A-2).
 

JulianK

Active Member
Jacket looks great! Although the "russet" colour that the model has on looks very dark to me. Is this just a function of the conditions the photos were taken in?
 

Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
I got a follow up e-mail early this morning from Shawn about a detail that made me notice something else in the pics that were posted here yesterday.

I was sent pics of the jacket flat with a tape measure of the dimensions and I was looking at those to confirm and the detail escaped me.

Looking at the other pics from Shawn of the jacket, that someone posted, do the pockets look too far to the outside? looking other originals/reproductions
near the same size, its looking like the pockets on this latest jacket are too far out to the sides.

I sent an e-mail to Shawn about this with some pictures to try to explain. The pictures I stitched together are not mine so I won't re-post them here.

Pockets are one of those small details where not only the shape of the pocket matters, but the the alignment on the body and how they offset from each other.

It would be helpful to get feedback from members for Shawn on this, so if you have any evidence that the alignment could improve or not, please post way! Visuals would be great.
Thanks for your concerns, well its according to standard and scale, you can find the explanatory comparison of an Original Dubow in Size 42 and Our Size 46 below
 

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Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
@Shawn Ali-

I (and I'm sure a lot of other members) GREATLY appreciate you listening to all of our inputs & concerns and making the jackets that we all want to buy & wear.

As you know, my main concern & disappointment has been the square/boxy shoulders on my Five Star Doninger & Werber. I am so very happy that you are making an extra effort to address & solve this problem on your version of the Dubow.

Another thing you might want to look into & consider regarding this issue is the geometry that the sleeves intersect & attach into the shoulder. On your previous jackets, the sleeves attach into the shoulder at a noticeable angle. This type of intersection, by definition, generates a corner and creates a square/boxy shoulder. A greater angle gives a more pronounced square/boxy shoulder and more bunching of material when the arms are raised.

By contrast, the sleeves on my Avirex A-2 attach directly inline with the shoulder, continuing the line/curve/shape of the shoulder/epaulet. This geometry does NOT form any sort of corner or square/boxy shoulder or create any bunching of material when the arms are raised.

View attachment 47618View attachment 47619

I hope this input is of value and contributes to solving the square/boxy shoulder problem and helps you to make a better looking & fitting product.

I'm so very excited about this jacket and can't wait to see your next updated version.

Please don't forget to also add a "Suitable for Chest Size" measurement to your size chart. We're one step closer to placing my order and perhaps FINALLY having the perfect Five Star A-2!

Jim
Thanks for highlighting this, it was a very small problem which is now resolved in new patterns :)

Shawn
 

Shawn Ali

Well-Known Member
Hi @Shawn Ali !

Thanks for posting the Dubow size chart.

Are the measurements listed those for the actual jacket or for the wearer's body? The reason I'm asking is that they are quite a bit different from the "generic" A-2 sizing chart on your website. The website chart also includes a "Suitable for Chest" measurement which is very helpful in that it gives you an approximate starting point.

For my Doniger & Werber, we started with a size 40. From how I'm interpreting (actually guessing) the numbers on your Dubow chart, we might have to start from a size 42.

I realize that A-2 patterns differ and you were able to design your Dubow jacket off of an original. Would you please clarify the best way for us to find our size? Perhaps if you were to also include a "Suitable for Chest" measurement on the Dubow chart, it would help make things clearer.

Thanks!

Jim
Dear Mr. @JimO

Thanks for your great suggestions, keeping in view that we added the Suitable for Body suggestions in the Size Chart as well, If you still find anything confusing you may ask

A2 Dubow Size Chart New.jpg


Best Regards

Shawn
 
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