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FIVESTAR LEATHER A2 JACKET

BadMofo

Well-Known Member
So, I have found the time and the place to shoot a few fotos :)... Here are the fit pics :cool::
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BadMofo

Well-Known Member
Wow @BadMofo thats a stunning jacket the Buffalo looks so amazing
And I love the fit, looks relaxed enough for a sweater and good range
Of motion without being baggy
Thank you. Yes, enough range of motion is a must for me.
As I don’t live in southern California;), I have to be able to wear it on a wide range of temperatures… so layering. I love vests also. I can’t allow me to buy an ‘only T-Shirt underneath’ leather Jacket…
 

usafchappyt

Active Member
a2.jpg


I'm considering one of these jackets in russet horsehide. I am about 6'-1" 185 lbs, fit and trim (40" chest, 33" waist) with broad shoulders. Outwear usually either: fits the shoulders but bags around the waist like a tent or fits the waist and binds the chest/shoulders/arms. I know these various jackets and maker/contracts have different fits, is there a particular contract reproduction from 5* that would favor an athletic build like mine? And I know the A2 is baggier and not a fitted jacket like a cafe racer.

From Goodwear regarding Dubow 20960: "The body pattern is quite similar to the later 27798 shape, with the torso being just a tiny bit trimmer. This pattern works best with a relatively athletic physique, though larger sizes in originals have much wider bodies from the chest down. The collar shape is quite different than later Dubows, with a larger collar that has a crescent shape, like Werber or Rough Wear." Would this run true for the 5* Dubow 27798?
 

MrProper

Well-Known Member
View attachment 72224

I'm considering one of these jackets in russet horsehide. I am about 6'-1" 185 lbs, fit and trim (40" chest, 33" waist) with broad shoulders. Outwear usually either: fits the shoulders but bags around the waist like a tent or fits the waist and binds the chest/shoulders/arms. I know these various jackets and maker/contracts have different fits, is there a particular contract reproduction from 5* that would favor an athletic build like mine? And I know the A2 is baggier and not a fitted jacket like a cafe racer.

From Goodwear regarding Dubow 20960: "The body pattern is quite similar to the later 27798 shape, with the torso being just a tiny bit trimmer. This pattern works best with a relatively athletic physique, though larger sizes in originals have much wider bodies from the chest down. The collar shape is quite different than later Dubows, with a larger collar that has a crescent shape, like Werber or Rough Wear." Would this run true for the 5* Dubow 27798?
If the fit is more important than the fidelity to the original, then Shawn can fit it for you.
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usafchappyt

Active Member
Thoughts on horsehide vs goat?

I like the depth of aniline-dyed leather vs the sort of painted-on opaque dye look of some leather. The difference doesn't always photograph well, so I can't necessarily tell from photos. Is that descriptive of 5* horsehide? I know there are a few aniline goat options.

I like horsehide for period accuracy (although I know Dubow and others did some goat) and somewhere on this thread, it was suggested that goat take forever to break in and get a nice patina.

And I'm definitely getting russet, I'm in the USAF and the seal brown Cooper A2 is still an official uniform item reserved for flyers/missileers (not me), so I want this one to be clearly lighter russet brown, not to be confused for an improperly worn uniform item.
 

mulceber

Moderator
I would go for goat. The goatskin Shawn uses for the Dubow is an imitation of the leather on the original Dubow he examined, and I can tell you first-hand that it's the nicest goatskin I've ever seen. It'll take a while to age, but it already looks great, so that isn't really a problem. Shawn's horsehide is decent stuff (although there have been QC issues in the past), but it's not in the same league as the Dubow goatskin.
 

usafchappyt

Active Member
I would go for goat. The goatskin Shawn uses for the Dubow is an imitation of the leather on the original Dubow he examined, and I can tell you first-hand that it's the nicest goatskin I've ever seen. It'll take a while to age, but it already looks great, so that isn't really a problem. Shawn's horsehide is decent stuff (although there have been QC issues in the past), but it's not in the same league as the Dubow goatskin.

https://www.fivestarleather.us/prod...8-order-no-w535ac-27798-leather-flight-jacket This listing then?

Thanks for your recommendation, not going to lie the goat leather looks terrible in the photos in my opinion, but again, nice leather doesn't always photograph well, especially under studio lights. It sounds like you own one? If so can you share pictures in "real life?" That usually provides a better feal than studio shots.
 

usafchappyt

Active Member
It's color choice time! From JimO on the left and TomTomgo on the right (a bronco, I believe): premium goat in conic brown with red aging wax and black aging wax, respectively, per Shawn:
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In my historic preservation days, we refered to things as "period correct" and "period" realistic." Replication means we know for certain that this house was painted in his color back in 1890 or whatever. Period realistic means that we know houses like this were painted this color or one like it back in the day, though maybe not this one. In jackets, I'd call period correct to be an exact reproduction of known leather/knit/thread combo from that particular manufacturer for that particular contract. Period realistic is a realistic combination of a period-correct leather color/knit/thread combo, that though maybe never happened, could conceivably have happened if a particular lot of leather was delivered to Dubow etc..

My #1 goal is a jacket I will like wearing, #2 is a period-realistic jacket. I don't need replication, ie I don't need to know for certain that a Dubow was made using this exact color, but I would like to know that the colors are period realistic. So is the "conic brown" a historical realistic color for 1. Dubow and 2. the era in general?

I like the leather on these originals (R source, L source ), leather seems similar to conic brown:
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My specs currently would be: conic brown premium goat, black wax (or none at all), mid-brown wool knits, orange-brown lining, khaki threads.
 
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