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Epaulette accuracy- various repros compared to original Aeros- 21996, 18775, 15142

petermack09

Well-Known Member
I could take these two clowns seriously if they were to stop stirring this shit from behind childishly stupid forum names,
What I find crazy is that you both seem to know your stuff.
I was finding this thread pretty educational till you started losing the plot Dave,,you have always seemed a really nice guy & I have to say I’m kinda disappointed with your goading,
It seems you make a nice jacket and somewhere along the line I may even have given it a go.That now looks like it ain’t gonna happen.Everyone is entitled to their opinions,,but I assure you that spouting off from behind a keyboard isn’t big & isn’t smart,,even if there’s an element of truth in what you say..I preach peace guys honestly please take it down a notch..and ZU,,ffs get your name out there and grow a pair,,a Glasgow kiss would sort this out pronto,,it’s like listening to kids in a playground.
 

DiamondDave

Well-Known Member
I could take these two clowns seriously if they were to stop stirring this shit from behind childishly stupid forum names,
What I find crazy is that you both seem to know your stuff.
I was finding this thread pretty educational till you started losing the plot Dave,,you have always seemed a really nice guy & I have to say I’m kinda disappointed with your goading,
It seems you make a nice jacket and somewhere along the line I may even have given it a go.That now looks like it ain’t gonna happen.Everyone is entitled to their opinions,,but I assure you that spouting off from behind a keyboard isn’t big & isn’t smart,,even if there’s an element of truth in what you say..I preach peace guys honestly please take it down a notch..and ZU,,ffs get your name out there and grow a pair,,a Glasgow kiss would sort this out pronto,,it’s like listening to kids in a playground.

Stop reading it? That is an option as well. This is about transparency and improving everyone. If you are unwilling to see that point of view, I really don’t need your opinions.

This forum used to be a place for this sort of thing right here. Maybe, just sitting around congratulating each other on poorly fitted jackets isn’t our best move?

DD

The threats of violence are a particularly nice touch when you want to calm people down, btw. Shill away elsewhere.
 
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STEVE S.

Well-Known Member
Zu,

No sir, that is typical of an over-large leather needle being punched through veg tanned leather. It makes a dreadful hole, and the hide explosion on the back is worse.

DD


Most of it seems to be typical of walking foot machines. What type of machines were originally used back in the day? I have had numerous originals in for restoration work & notice a recurring theme on the stitching. Stitch length is normal until it reaches a point about an inch before a seam, such as where the front panels & zipper boxes meet. Stitch length goes from approx 10 stitches per inch to about 25-30. Always wondered if this was due to operator trying to push the “hump” thru the machine.

Yes, I said “hump”...
 

ZuZu

Well-Known Member
Petermack09 wrote: "....and ZU,,ffs get your name out there and grow a pair,,a Glasgow kiss would sort this out pronto,,it’s like listening to kids in a playground...."

I don't know what all that's supposed to mean but aren't you kinda doing the thing you're complaining about Mr. Big Bad Peter? My name's Jeff out here in Oakland CA where a drive-by is our little "kiss"... not scared of people from Scotland!
 
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DiamondDave

Well-Known Member
Steve,

Yes sir that is why. It’s the hardest part for these machines. Most of us today use waking foot, and it still happens. Our understanding is that the vast majority were made with regular needle feed machines, as walking foot was still a new thing, and apparently quite expensive.

As to the “little explosions”, the simple fix is to not use huge bodkin-point leather needles, instead opting for a basic sharp needle, or better still a ball point needle. The latter may sound counterintuitive, until you realize what those needles are meant to do, that being to punch through the leather in a gentler way, by flexing and threading it’s way through the layers of the dermis, thus making a small tight hole that the thread can “seat” in properly.

DD

“there now, that’s something that you know.”
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
the zig zag is actually indication of good thread tension, it's a good thing :)
Not according to Danner Boots. I was a machine operator there for a while. When we saw that Zig Zag stitch, it was an issue with the bobbin. We would pull out the bobbin and re thread the machine. The thread would go back in line after. If it continued happening the machine was serviced. I am no machine serviceman but this was my experience working there.
I did not like seeing the Zig Zags because it meant I had to stop and open up the machine and mess with it. When it kept happening it was a pain in the ass.
-Jay
 

Bombing IP

Well-Known Member
Most of it seems to be typical of walking foot machines. What type of machines were originally used back in the day? I have had numerous originals in for restoration work & notice a recurring theme on the stitching. Stitch length is normal until it reaches a point about an inch before a seam, such as where the front panels & zipper boxes meet. Stitch length goes from approx 10 stitches per inch to about 25-30. Always wondered if this was due to operator trying to push the “hump” thru the machine.

Yes, I said “hump”...

There was a machine made by Singer in the 1930s for making convertible tops for cars . The model # escapes me it"s a favorite with cowboy boot makers ,it has a compound foot which means the needle stays down when the material is moved forward .

Jeff

The Model # was 78 I had one ,great machine straight stitch only .
 
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DiamondDave

Well-Known Member
Time this was shut, too much bad blood and name calling.

Also still a lot of good information being put out here, maybe you should actually read the posts, and you might learn something Neato that you didn’t know, worth a shot?
DD
 

regius

Active Member
Never heard of such a thing. Even if it were true it detracts from the jackets and in no way looks like any original. Not appropriate for a copy. Maybe for a Vanson or a Schott.
Ask any tailor & people who sew.
 

regius

Active Member
If the originals don’t show the zig zag pattern, probably because they were working for speed or overtime the thread loosened. I sew myself & have two local suit makers as friend, one is an Polish master tailor veteran who has won multiple medals. Also, my teacher worked with Fashion district NY designers, to achieve the zig zag pattern is the ultimate goal for strong tension. Like any technical things, some may disagree for whatever reason, but for someone who has done it & tested the tightness of two pieces of leather under various tension (& visual stitch pattern), I only care for this pattern as it’s the strongest. Historically inaccurate? Maybe, but I won’t trust a jacket that has a straight line stitch, overtime they’ll pop loose.
 

regius

Active Member
Aero’s needle hole however, tends to be large and I agree on the “blowout”, to be weird looking. Langlitz uses thicker threads yet has no blowout
 

petermack09

Well-Known Member
Stop reading it? That is an option as well. This is about transparency and improving everyone. If you are unwilling to see that point of view, I really don’t need your opinions.

This forum used to be a place for this sort of thing right here. Maybe, just sitting around congratulating each other on poorly fitted jackets isn’t our best move?

DD

The threats of violence are a particularly nice touch when you want to calm people down, btw. Shill away elsewhere.
Try reading the post again,,the idea was for you two to sort it out ,,no violence ever from me,I’m a pacifist and always have been,,but spouting this to get back at someone you obviously have an issue with ,,especially if you can’t do it face to face is kinda cowardly.Keep banging away on your keyboard your fanboys are loving it,,Thought you spat the dummy out anyway and given up on jacket making.Have you found another mentor to give you lessons over the phone..
Ps no shill here I’m happy to pm with anyone and have a chat over the phone,,tried that route before with some other wise guy who questioned my lack of posting etc,,needless to say it didn’t happen.seems some (not all) New Yorkers can walk the walk but that’s it,,
Bet he is still counting my posts :)..have a good day
 

gav

Well-Known Member
Try reading the post again,,the idea was for you two to sort it out ,,no violence ever from me,I’m a pacifist and always have been,,but spouting this to get back at someone you obviously have an issue with ,,especially if you can’t do it face to face is kinda cowardly.Keep banging away on your keyboard your fanboys are loving it,,Thought you spat the dummy out anyway and given up on jacket making.Have you found another mentor to give you lessons over the phone..
Ps no shill here I’m happy to pm with anyone and have a chat over the phone,,tried that route before with some other wise guy who questioned my lack of posting etc,,needless to say it didn’t happen.seems some (not all) New Yorkers can walk the walk but that’s it,,
Bet he is still counting my posts :)..have a good day
Your posts are kind of incoherent. You talk about a Glasgow kiss and then say you are a pacifist....???
 

Silver Surfer

Well-Known Member
new yorkers can walk the walk????? funny guy. maybe you should drop by our fair city and go for a walk with me. no kisses, just a walk.
 

petermack09

Well-Known Member
new yorkers can walk the walk????? funny guy. maybe you should drop by our fair city and go for a walk with me. no kisses, just a walk.
I asked just that last year,,didn’t happen,
I’m over again next year & would love to meet up,,no kissing required,,, may 13th red hook terminal.All the people I met last time were great ,& my name is Peter,,silver surfer,,looking forward to meeting up,
 
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Bombing IP

Well-Known Member
New Yorkers can walk the walk ? what is that supposed to mean ? . Diamond Dave is not from New York ,and the Glasgow Kiss comment was real choice wording to diffuse a situation .

Jeff
 

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