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Edmund T Church M422a Reproduction - Headwind Mfg Co

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
I always wanted to reproduce this contract. It has some interesting and unique features among the USN family of intermediate weather leather flight jackets. I have owed several of these and currently have a size 38 that we have just made the pattern for. The hides should be in next week and then we will begin. The project began months ago when a customer wanted to change his order. He was awaiting his spot the backlog, when he decided he really wanted a M422a instead. We arrived at the Church and started working on it.
Church-Front-02-BL.jpg

Churches are known to have collars that fade to a blond color. Much lighter than other contracts
Blonde-Collar.JPG

I have sourced Nice Golden Mouton to match the Jacket I have (seen on the right below)
The original Church with the Mouton options:
Original-mouton.jpg

The Church Jackets were a Chestnut color early on. Later in the contract they switched to the USN Seal color. Possibly it was under pressure of the USN. The jacket I have has an interesting feature that we have decided to replicate. The collar was made from the early Chestnut color hide but the jacket is Seal. Most likely when they switched hides, they still had collars made up in Chestnut. They just used them for the seal jackets since the collars are hidden when worn 90% of the time.
IMG_20210315_095827192.jpg

We have sourced matching Chestnut Goatskin for the collar:
IMG_20210315_100926383.jpg

And some nice Seal Goat with matching grain:
USN-Goat.jpg

The zipper was a Talon M-42 with the unmarked shield. We have the correct high quality reproduction zipper made with Talon USA components and cotton zipper tape.
P1050204.JPG

Topped off with authentic matching brown buttons, 100% Wool Bi-weave knits, Rayon Lining and an outstanding Spec label:
P1020818.JPG
 
Last edited:

London Cabbie

Well-Known Member
I always wanted to reproduce this contract. It has some interesting and unique features among the USN family of intermediate weather leather flight jackets. I have owed several of these and currently have a size 38 that we have just made the pattern for. The hides should be in next week and then we will begin. The project began months ago when a customer wanted to change his order. He was awaiting his spot the backlog, when he decided he really wanted a M422a instead. We arrived at the Church and started working on it.
View attachment 60236
Churches are known to have collars that fade to a blond color. Much lighter than other contracts
View attachment 60240
I have sourced Nice Golden Mouton to match the Jacket I have (seen on the right below)
The original Church with the Mouton options:
View attachment 60237
The Church Jackets were a Chestnut color early on. Later in the contract they switched to the USN Seal color. Possibly it was under pressure of the USN. The jacket I have has an interesting feature that we have decided to replicate. The collar was made from the early Chestnut color hide but the jacket is Seal. Most likely when they switched hides, they still had collars made up in Chestnut. They just used them for the seal jackets since the collars are hidden when worn 90% of the time.
View attachment 60243
We have sourced matching Chestnut Goatskin for the collar:
View attachment 60244
And some nice Seal Goat with matching grain:
View attachment 60239
The zipper was a Talon M-42 with the unmarked shield. We have the correct high quality reproduction zipper made with Talon USA components and cotton zipper tape.
View attachment 60238
Topped off with authentic matching brown buttons, 100% Wool Bi-weave knits, Rayon Lining and an outstanding Spec label:
View attachment 60245
That spec label is top drawer well done Jay.
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
Update from the production floor. We are making progress. The USN Stencil was a challenge. It has a unique font that is not like any other USN stencil. The S is curved like a university sports style font, and the letters and periods are very close together. Also Church was the only MFG to use Black paint. I think we nailed it!
Prototype-Collar-2.jpg

Prototype-Collar-1.jpg

Here's a look at the arm gusset. This contract was the only one to attach the gusset in this manner. Note how the gusset is rolled over on top of the arm on the outside end of the gusset, opposite of how it was normally done. Another unique Church detail that came out nicely on our reproduction:
Prototype-Arm-1.jpg
 

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
Update from the production floor. We are making progress. The USN Stencil was a challenge. It has a unique font that is not like any other USN stencil. The S is curved like a university sports style font, and the letters and periods are very close together. Also Church was the only MFG to use Black paint. I think we nailed it!
View attachment 61554
View attachment 61553
Here's a look at the arm gusset. This contract was the only one to attach the gusset in this manner. Note how the gusset is rolled over on top of the arm on the outside end of the gusset, opposite of how it was normally done. Another unique Church detail that came out nicely on our reproduction:
View attachment 61558
Little things mean a lot...
 

Skyhawk

Well-Known Member
That's a G*damn beauty.
Looking forward to the fully finished product.
If I may, what's the timeline on the 55J14 prototype looking like?
Thanks! We have to get through some more customer orders first. We did 2 Goldsmith A-2'S along with this Church and this Church was essentially a customer order too. Now we have another Church in the works as well as a few High Hats jackets, some Goldsmiths, and a few others. Most likely it will be the Perry A-2 contracts up next for the new projects. I will keep you posted on the 55J14 though.

I actually have everything in stock to make it including the Conmar zippers....
 

MaydayWei

Well-Known Member
Thanks! We have to get through some more customer orders first. We did 2 Goldsmith A-2'S along with this Church and this Church was essentially a customer order too. Now we have another Church in the works as well as a few High Hats jackets, some Goldsmiths, and a few others. Most likely it will be the Perry A-2 contracts up next for the new projects. I will keep you posted on the 55J14 though.

I actually have everything in stock to make it including the Conmar zippers....

Sounds good, very much looking forward to it.
 
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