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Eastman 1401P or Monarch?

Skanstull

New Member
I recently received an Eastman 55J14 size 40 that is fantastic - the fit could not be better (for me) and it is extremly comfortable. Now, though, I feel I need an A-2 as well, and I understand that is a somewhat more challenging fit.

After having spent many hours reading every relevant thread I could find on VLJ and the hat place (some of them, like Brettafetts 1401P thread, many times) I have narrowed down my decision to either the Eastman 1401P or the Monarch. I want a russet jacket.

I am 5'10", 160 lbs, shoulders 18", chest 38.5", waist at belly button 34" - so approx 4" drop.

What speaks for the 1401P?
- every time I see it, it looks fantastic - for example, on Brettafett, or Cory Malkhe on the cover of the Eastman catalogue
- the collar looks good to me

What speaks against the 1401P?
- I am worried about the jacket front length being too short, but I have understood it is a bit on the short side mainly in the back?
- some people seem to have issues with the collar, both with regards to looks and comfort
- I would probably have a bit of shoulder droop - but generally, I think it looks ok

What speaks for the Monarch?
- a more straight fit that probably fits my shoulders, chest and belly well
- a comfortable collar

What speaks against the Monarch?
- when I see people wearing it, I don't get the same wow feeling as the 1401P - but these people do not have my body

Any input would be appreciated. I would really like to know if there is a difference in front length of the jackets (in the same size), and also, the arm width (as I believe I would like slimmer arms better).

I have sent an email to Eastman but not received an answer (yet) and so would appreciate any comments from you guys.

Thanks!
 

Steve27752

Well-Known Member
Welcome to VLJ. As to your size I have no idea, I love my Monarch much more than I did my 1401 or my 27752. In A2 I would go up a size as they do not have a bi-swing back.
I also feel insulted as I obviously do not have 'Your' body!
Quote "- when I see people wearing it, I don't get the same wow feeling as the 1401P - but these people do not have my body".
33530488_1997668477214658_7111903441978392576_n.jpg
 

Skanstull

New Member
Welcome to VLJ. As to your size I have no idea, I love my Monarch much more than I did my 1401 or my 27752. In A2 I would go up a size as they do not have a bi-swing back.
I also feel insulted as I obviously do not have 'Your' body!
Quote "- when I see people wearing it, I don't get the same wow feeling as the 1401P - but these people do not have my body".
View attachment 24247
Thanks Steve, that Monarch looks excellent on you and in my eyes that is the perfect fit. It looks comfortable.

What makes you like it better than your 1401P? Is it because of the fit, and if so, primarily due to feeling great or looking great?
 

Skanstull

New Member
Maybe I should clarify what I mean with that ’these people do not have my body’ - we all look different, and I firmly believe different contracts look better or worse on certain body shapes - so difficult to say when you see a great look if it would look as good on yourself.
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Both jackets are lovely. Personally I am a big fan of ELC’s 1401, although Steve’s Monarch looks fantastic.
I had a Monarch, but found it a bit tight in the shoulders and when lifting arms, but this a body-type, personal thing.
It seems we are quite similar in build, my chest is a touch wider at 39.5”

Regards the 1401, the front is not short, but the RW back tends to be a touch shorter than some other jackets of the same size, which was done on purpose.
Ive never had issues with the 1401 collar. Love it.
I can get away with a 40 or 42 in the 1401, but really needs to be in-between. For the 1401, I’ say a 40 long for you. 42 is a bit more comfortable and able to layer a bit, 40 is trim.
You won’t have shoulder drop on the 40 and not much on the 42, and even then, with these jackets its all relative.

Monarch, maybe the same… Or just get a 42.
For the same size, the Monarch’s back was slightly longer, say 0.5” or so if I recall.

Both jackets have slim arms. The Monarch felt tighter under the armpits for me.
For me, the 1401 was easier to wear, I love the collar and Jimmy Stewart’s 1401 is my all time fav A-2.

Remember: You can always have a long or extra long size with ELC.
Ideal would be to order a standard jacket for fit. If it fits, great. If not quite, you can ask for an inch or so added to lengths, and get the perfect fit.
I plan on visiting the pop up at the end of the year and trying everything on again ;)

Know this is about ELCs, and don’t mean to deviate from the query. But my Dubow from Platon and the one from BK, are two of the best repro A-2s I’ve had. So much so, that I’ve ordered another.
 

ausreenactor

Well-Known Member
HUGE fan of the Monarch. I don't have a 1401-P currently. I do have a 27752 though. I love a russet 1401-P. If the hides are similar a Monarch would suit your build. I am 83kgs and the 42 Monarch is perfect.
 

Steve27752

Well-Known Member
Maybe I should clarify what I mean with that ’these people do not have my body’ - we all look different, and I firmly believe different contracts look better or worse on certain body shapes - so difficult to say when you see a great look if it would look as good on yourself.
Over the years I have had several ELC A-2's, original makers and house. One I would like for the colour, one for the fit, one for the collar shape, no collar stand etc.
This Monarch is the one that had all of the parts of the other jackets rolled into one. Collar shape, Colour, fit etc.
 

Lebowski

Well-Known Member
I'd add also ELC Star Sportswear to that query list above)
Any of these three A-2 contracts might fit perfectly to any slender or/and athletic frames.
 
Last edited:

Skanstull

New Member
Thank you all, much appreciated input!

However, both contracts get equal endorsement...:)

Brettafett, I agree ordering a Standard to begin with seems like the way to go. I have normal length limbs, so I think the standard size is good for arm length; but I don't know about the jacket length.

Lebowski - the Star looks great but that is Seal coloured, I believe.

Could anyone confirm that the 1401P and Monarch use the same coloured Warhorse hides? It is a bit confusing as on the webpage both contracts are said to be made of the 'Havana' colour Warhorse. However, in the new catalogue, they are both said to be made of 'Russet Warhorse', while other contracts are made of 'Havana' (and of course 'Seal').
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Last I was aware there was Seal and Russet 'Havana' Warhorse... Only those two options. The leather differed slightly from batch to batch... Hue, grain, thickness, feel etc... So, two identical jackets made from two different production runs may look slightly different.
But they're all good.
Anyway... Yes, RW1401 and Monarch should be made from the same leather. I stand to be corrected though, as I've not spoken to the guys personally since late last year, and things might have changed. I do believe theres a 'new' furniture-looking leather that will find its way into production sometime.
 

Brettafett

Well-Known Member
Heres an ELC RW1401 std 40 circa 2015
Brett_ELCRW1401_1_09.JPG
Heres another RW1401 40 with an inch added to lengths late 2015/16
Brett_ELCRW1401_2_01b.JPG
Heres a RW1401 size 42 long, with an inch added to lengths, late 2018
Brett_ELC RW1401 2018 2.jpg
ELC Monarch 40 with an inch added to lengths
P1190567.JPGP1190570.JPG
You can see the two jackets being worn by the same person. RW1401 is more comfortable for me, as a daily wearer... even though I'm a trim bloke. The RW1401 40 is too short for me as a standard length and adding an inch all round works very well. The 42 was a gem of a jacket, but I did feel there was a bit of room in the torso I didn't need. The Monarch 40 long had good lengths, but the shoulders felt tight for me, same as the Star... Gorgeous jackets though, one and all. I am keen to try a Monarch in a std 42 at the pop-up, for fun. Will wear my Dubow ;) and compare with Gary's 1755.
 

Lebowski

Well-Known Member
Heres an ELC RW1401 std 40 circa 2015
View attachment 24286
Heres another RW1401 40 with an inch added to lengths late 2015/16
View attachment 24287
Heres a RW1401 size 42 long, with an inch added to lengths, late 2018
View attachment 24288
ELC Monarch 40 with an inch added to lengths
View attachment 24289View attachment 24290
You can see the two jackets being worn by the same person. RW1401 is more comfortable for me, as a daily wearer... even though I'm a trim bloke. The RW1401 40 is too short for me as a standard length and adding an inch all round works very well. The 42 was a gem of a jacket, but I did feel there was a bit of room in the torso I didn't need. The Monarch 40 long had good lengths, but the shoulders felt tight for me, same as the Star... Gorgeous jackets though, one and all. I am keen to try a Monarch in a std 42 at the pop-up, for fun. Will wear my Dubow ;) and compare with Gary's 1755.
Brett, Monarch looks stellar on you. Pure perfection, it looks splendid. Really well. To my taste it looks even slightly better than all your variations of RW 1401 (though, I very like ELC RW 1401 too). And yes, I very like how your Dubow made by Platon looks on you.
 
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