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DIY Hartmann Jacket, first try

Johnnie Espresso

Active Member
Hi everybody,
i am a complete sucker for french cyclist- / Hartmann jackets, but haven't been able to score an original that fits me.
The repros available don't quite cut it for me, since they all seem off in either material or cut, so i was always reluctant to get one of these.
On this forum, i got to know pilot, who, in my eyes, produces the best repros available, but, although totally justified through quality and look,
his beautiful jackets are a bit out of my price range. This is why i decided to take matters into my own hands, to one day be able to own a jacket
that fits me well and has all the details i favour.

I have little and only autodidactical sewing experience, so my first step was watching every youtube-tutorial that i could find to get an idea of what i was up to.

Since i've learned that failure is always more of an option than success when it comes to a task like that, i bought an old, weathered and discoloured leather skin
for only 50€ off ebay to start with. I don't even know what type of leather this is, but it's 1,2mm thick and most likely cow hide.

The zippers were also cheap, off-the-shelf ones, made by Prym.

After i measued myself and the Hartmanns i own, i constructed the pattern and made "stencils" out of cardboard:

IMG_20220512_190401.jpg


now, it was time to cut out all pieces needed:

IMG_20220513_145649.jpg


after that, it was time to put everything together. The first thing i learned is that my old Pfaff 260 wasn't able to handle all these layers of leather, so i got myself a SINGER heavy duty, a rather cheap but powerful household sewing machine, which worked satisfactory but would come to its limits in the process as well.
I'll be saving some money to buy myself a Pfaff 145 or a Juki 563, which i've heard are fine for working with leather. If there is anybody here who works with a machine like that, i'd be glad to hear about your experiences with it and i'm also happy about any other recommendation for a good and affordable industrial sewing machine!

Here are some more pics from the sewing process: (the zippers and pocket construction made me swear a lot, but now i have a basic idea of how it's done :D )

IMG_20220517_214008.jpg



IMG_20220518_110921.jpg


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The nicest and most recognizable part is of course the characteristic buckle, which i luckily had left over after buying two a couple of years ago, since i had the opportunity and needed one to replace the cheap knock-off on a repro jacket i got:


IMG_20220524_161814.jpg



And here is the final outcome. It is BY FAR not perfect, there's uneven stitches, wonky parts and sewing mistakes all over, but i am very happy with the outcome because i wasn't sure whether i could pull it off or not:


IMG_20220524_175814.jpg



I hope you can enjoy this little experiment, and thanks a bundle to this forum for educating me about the topic. Special thanks go out to fellow Hartmann enthusiast Kermit3D for encouraging me to write this thread and especially to Pilot, whose creations were a huge inspiration and will be my benchmark in further endeavours.
 

flyincowboy

Well-Known Member
Very happy to read your " adventure" with such a jacket! Remember me of old long good times when i learned how to use a sewing machine!!!! I'am a professional upholsterer" SELLIER GARNISSEUR " in french and i always dreamed about working with different leather such as cowhide horsehide, goatskin sheepskin and exotic leathers .what i am doing now, making some leather goodies and some leather seats... My choice went on a second hand trusty ADLER 167 which is a a'walking foot sewing machine she is simple and easy to work with...and able to cope with leather. i like the way you build your jacket but do yourself a favor make some samples with scrap pieces in order to practice before sewing and definitely assembling your leather jacket ! take your time be meticulous do not rush! Obviousely it's not that hard!
fred  adler 167 73     9.jpg
 

CBI

Well-Known Member
congratulations!!!! the jacket looks great and frankly, the fact that YOU made it speaks volumes. Don't worry about any imperfections you see. Enjoy it and enjoy the bragging rights!.

"Hey, Nice jacket, where did you get it?"

..........................."I made it"

SCORE!!!!!!!!!!
 

Kermit3D

Well-Known Member
Man, this is awesome, a real success o_O!
I'm familiar with this kind of jacket and I can say that the fit really looks like an original.
There are some finishing issues... but honestly for a first jacket the result is great.

How did you proceed for the lining ?

I'm going to send you a zip file with a lot of pictures of original jackets, if it can help you for references.

I think you will gain a lot of authenticity by choosing other zippers.
Don't stop here, make more, I'm sure the next one will be even more beautiful.
... Maybe you'd be willing to sell me one ? :)
 

Johnnie Espresso

Active Member
thank you, Kermit.....! I''ll gladly take any zip file you can hurl into my direction!!
Lining the jacket was the worst, and that's where most issues still lay, i was really focused on trying to nail the outside look.
As i stated above, i chose cheap material for this, because there was the possibility of f***ing up completely and having bought expensive hardware for nothing.
I will definetely go on with this, but i guess it'll be a long way until i can make one good enough for giving to somebody else.....
 

Pilot

Well-Known Member
Very happy to read your " adventure" with such a jacket! Remember me of old long good times when i learned how to use a sewing machine!!!! I'am a professional upholsterer" SELLIER GARNISSEUR " in french and i always dreamed about working with different leather such as cowhide horsehide, goatskin sheepskin and exotic leathers .what i am doing now, making some leather goodies and some leather seats... My choice went on a second hand trusty ADLER 167 which is a a'walking foot sewing machine she is simple and easy to work with...and able to cope with leather. i like the way you build your jacket but do yourself a favor make some samples with scrap pieces in order to practice before sewing and definitely assembling your leather jacket ! take your time be meticulous do not rush! Obviousely it's not that hard!View attachment 79219
Adler! the finest and best!
We only use Adler Dürrkopp from the 30/40ies.
 

Pilot

Well-Known Member
Hi Brice,
Except for the zippers which are not from the 1930-1940's, how do you know that the jacket is from the 1970's ?
“ knowledge… know how… 30 years ++ collecting… approx 200 more or less time like jackets passing trough my hands in those years…
Besides… the zips were added by us “ refurbished “ modified…as mentioned.
 
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Pilot

Well-Known Member
“ knowledge… know how… 30 years ++ collecting… approx 200 more or less time like jackets passing trough my hands in those years…
Besides… the zips were added by us “ refurbished “ modified…as mentioned.
SOLD
thx to buyer.
 
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