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Cotton thread?

johnwayne

Well-Known Member
Some time ago the stitching on my early house ELC A2 right hand pocket broke up leaving a gaping opening along the bottom an partly up the outer edge. Two weeks ago I wore my original Dubow to the Battle of Britain airshow at Duxford and stupidly I know, I put my mobile in same right pocket and guess what, it fell straight through! So, identical problem on two jackets made 50 years apart from each other and just coincidence I know but can anyone advise please what thread, gauge and colour should I attempt to find? Secondly, on the ELC I think I'll sew straight through lining as Ken @ Aero said is prob how a period repair would have been done but on the Dubow the lining is original and keen to ensure I get exact stitch holes I'm thinking I might have to slit the lining, do the repair so I can see from the inside, then sew lining slit!! Would either option to the Dubow affect its value by much? The original lining does have a name and number stamped inside and I'm given to believe has passed through Aero hands for restoration some time back.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
A machine would be the best method by far IMO. My ELC had the same issue on one pocket. Of greater concern might be other areas on the Dubow that aren’t far behind.
No reason to stitch through the lining on either. Thread size and color is a long topic. Are you in the US?
Dave
 

johnwayne

Well-Known Member
Not in the US and personally not a dab hand on the sewing machine either! The missus is more proactive s/m wise but I doubt she'd have a leather foot (I know a tad about these things!) for her domestic Toyota machine so I was intending to hand sew, hence my original question but ? how on earth I can repair without going through the lining, or am I dumb? I can only guess I'd need to undo lining at waist knit? I'd hate to try m/c sewing and get it wrong ie miss original holes, just assumed (and we know what assuming is) that hand sewing the easier method!
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
IMHO This is not a job for the weekend hobbiest to try . Send it out to a professional and have them do it the correct way . You won’t be disappointed ;)
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
Oh the great secret of jacket making!!!
It’s not at the waist. Keep looking - you’ll find it. If I told you I would have to kill you.
I think a domestic machine could do it since the holes are prepunched. Just operate the machine by hand. Start and finish a couple stitches past the damage and tie knots on the inside.
I hope someone in the UK can help but this is well within your abilities. I promise. Find some cotton button thread of the right color. I’d gladly do it gratis if you were here.
Fabric season is almost upon us!
Dave
 

johnwayne

Well-Known Member
Thanks for your advice guys and Dave your kind offer if I were local! I know our friend Roughwear here is capable and lives local to me so maybe I'll PM him - I just thought it seemed a simple repair initially!
 

Ken at Aero Leather

Well-Known Member
Feel down the arms and you'll find a raised seam in the short edge of the sleeve lining it'll be stitched together with a raised edge, this is your way in and out of the jacket, undo this whole top stitched seam, reach inside the side of the pocket that needs restitching and unpick some of the side seam in the lining from the armpit down to no closer than two inches from the knit, do not touch the knit
This should give enough access to stitch the pocket, operate the machine by hand, not foot and fiddle/place the needle into the correct hole with each stitch, don't lift the foot too much or you'll risk opening the tension and getting a looped stitch. All done?
Now turn the jacket inside out (so you are only seeing the sueded side of the leather) either through the sleeve or the open side seam Now you can restitch the side seam easily. When that's done carefully pull the whole jacket back through the open seam in the sleeve lining and resew the sleeve lining seam
Job done.
 

dmar836

Well-Known Member
There ya go! The secret door revealed!
It's quite confusing at first if its in pieces but since your jackets are together its just going to look strange. You can't get it wrong. Just know it will all come back out through the same sleeve opening when you are done.
Keep us informed!
 
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