Build a Cycliste jacket the follow on . Pt # 2 and onwards

[Bombing IP]

So onto the the main zip this one is new old stock from Phophete ,it seems that the zip of the period were Prophete or Eclair .My main zip is new old stock . The zip seen in many photos is always above the interlocking buckle and held in place with stitching and tube rivets .The length is 20" the reverse side of the puller is stamped made in France .Not much more to say so on to the pictures . The next posting will be about the upper pocket zippers ,and my lining material arrived but that for another time .

Best BIP

 

[B-Man2]

Jeff
This is outstanding .. watching with a great deal of interest .
Cheers

 

[Micawber]

Good stuff.

 

[Kermit3D]

it's going to be fantastic...

 

[Enigma1938]

With original parts like this zipper you'll be ahead of all the other modern "cyclist jacket makers" could be difficult to find some matching short zips for the breast pockets...

 

[Bombing IP]

Well to be honest with you Enigma the breast zipper pockets were the hardest part to source not that I could not find then it was finding the correct length .So to be clear I was looking for zippers that were to long , and saw many zipper shorter on offer ?. I then asked many people who actually owned originals and they all concurred that they were 120mm long which seemed small butI will stick to the original dimensions. I found 2 Eclair zippers new old stock in white , I need to dye then the same color as the main zip .Sometimes I have seen original jackets with different color cloth part of the zipper on the same jacket and some also have been white .I am going to dye them for the sake of uniformity ,another thing the zips pull closed toward the center zip .Never seen a jacket with the zips set the other way .Well that covers the zips here are a few pictures .

Nest installment will be the D rings for side adjustment of jacket .

BIP

 

[Bombing IP]

So finally on to the last pieces of the puzzle .Firstly the main body lining in wool in Prince of Wales check with a hint of blue to tie in with the Bemberg sleeve lining . The wool lining is light to medium 1.5 yds. The D rings are welded closed and are triple chrome plated suitable for 3/4" adjuster belt as shown in the photos below . My plan is to have Five Star make the jacket ,this will be done when I have completed the drawings I want to send with the components .This will include details on stitching label placement hanging hook . button placement .I will not want to have an inside pocket as I think this is not for me .The two lower flap pockets I have not decided if I want buttons or just simply flaps . The shape of the pockets lower has not been determined . These drawings we be completed at a later date and shown on the forum for you perusal ,and when I get the jacket back we can compare . This will be interesting to our newer members of the capabilities of Five Star and also the turn around . I will also give a full account of cost involved to make this jacket . My aim is to have another one made but with a Scottish tweed body lining . Now I have to save up because like many people I am out of work and FRNs are tight .

Next part will be the drawings and dimensions necessary for Five Star to be able to make the jacket .

BIP

 

[Saint-ex]

 

[jack31916]

MASH Japan sells Fabric Brush markers for dyeing Zipper tapes. I had one and it worked well for colouring a zipper.

The brand is Marvy Uchida and these fabric markers are available in toys or craft stores.

 

[B-Man2]

Jeff
FYI Not sure what color you need but I just checked Amazon for you and they have a number of different Marvy Uchida pen products .

 

[Kermit3D]

Is it going well ? Any new things to show us ?

 

[Enigma1938]

Any news?
Has Shawn from 5* answered you meanwhile? My requests at 5* are still unanswered

 

[Bombing IP]

Hi Guys the project is on hold because of the holidays and I am currently out of work so funds are low . I will be putting together some drawings in due course . Shawn has agreed to make the jacket for me but price has not been set yet for obvious reasons as he doe's not have all the details .Thanks for the interest you have shown in my little project .Enigma email Shawn again its not like him to not reply to emails quickly .

Rgds Jeff NY

 

[Rory Schultz]

So onto the the main zip this one is new old stock from Phophete ,it seems that the zip of the period were Prophete or Eclair .My main zip is new old stock . The zip seen in many photos is always above the interlocking buckle and held in place with stitching and tube rivets .The length is 20" the reverse side of the puller is stamped made in France .Not much more to say so on to the pictures . The next posting will be about the upper pocket zippers ,and my lining material arrived but that for another time .View attachment 47491View attachment 47492View attachment 47493View attachment 47491View attachment 47492View attachment 47493View attachment 47494

Best BIP

I was just catching up on stuff I missed and came across this posting on the zipper I thought that is was supposed to say Fabrique en France. The English translation was for Export. But long zippers made in France used on clothing like jackets did not begin until 1937. Long Zippers were for luggage, purses etc. But for clothing was not until late 30's. Only very short zippers had been used. By then the war was beginning so this had to been a post WW2 production. Because France was not exporting zippers until after WW2. But 1910? I do not believe this because the patent usage rights had not been sold in Europe yet. In 1923 during a trip to Europe Gideon Sundback sold his European rights to Martin Othmar Winterhalter who founded RiRi. But his improvements on the zippers were not used on clothing, just purses, boots, luggage etc. There is actual record of the first use of zippers on clothing in France in Esquire Magazine in 1937. This particular design being used is Gideon Sundback's design that he patented in 1909 which he had also filed patents in Germany and in USA. In the USA he was making these under the name Hookless Fastener Company.

If this claim by Prophete is true then this beats the historical record of Irving Schott creating the first leather jacket with front zipper in 1928. And would predate Gideon Sundback's patent to even be manufactured for exportation. But then this would not make any sense because of the Made in France on the reverse this is a contradiction in history. If this Prophete zipper was made for USA export in 1910 then Sundback would have sued. I do not recall any of that in historical record.

Also, remember the US Navy were using long cable locking zippers in 1917 made by B.F. Goodrich.
Correct me If I am wrong.