Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
I will post later today about the interlocking buckle with samples and pictures
Build a Cycliste jacket the follow on . Pt # 2 and onwards
- Thread starter Bombing IP
- Start date
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
Firstly we have a buckle that attaches the lower part of the jacket which helps to create the blouson and the trim fitting to the waist . The back of the jacket has two darts into the lower rectangular strip .The lower strip is in three pieces Back ,Left front ,Right front . There will always be a tapering towards the waist because of the darts but this can be further gathered in with the 2 side straps and locked in place with double D rings same system as a motor cycle helmet . The lining fabric will not cover the lower strip but will stop above and be tucked inside . Now for the buckles ,height 1 1/4" or 31.5mm ,width buckle assembled 1 .62" 41 .2 , side slots . 1 " 25.4mm ,thickness of the assembly .190" 4.9mm . So the belt that need to attach buckle need to be .900" 23mm which in turn will give us a dimension for the lower belt approx 36mm or 1.40" .Length of the belting has to be variable to suit the size of the wearer '
The buckles are made of mild steel and have been plated in Nickel .They are made using the stamping process and this is not a one step deal . The two side are of different nature the left side is has the extra process of making the hook the right side would be made in one step and that would be punch thro holes .Create the offset and lastly impress the design . The piece would feed into the stamping machine the correct width incrementally fed forward stamped and then cleaned in Trico . On then to be plated using the anode cathode method of plating .There appears to be no secondary finishing by which I mean buffing of the Nickel ,deburring would not be necessary because the stamp and dies have tight clearances and are very hard to resist wear (Rockweel 59 approx .Mild steel is soft and because of the small size of thepiece it would not need hardening . The Stamp and dies are very expensive to make and are made by toolmakers ,remember we need 2 machines an 2 set of dies ,this cost only becomes viable if the order is in the hundreds of thousands of buckles .
Jeff
The buckles are made of mild steel and have been plated in Nickel .They are made using the stamping process and this is not a one step deal . The two side are of different nature the left side is has the extra process of making the hook the right side would be made in one step and that would be punch thro holes .Create the offset and lastly impress the design . The piece would feed into the stamping machine the correct width incrementally fed forward stamped and then cleaned in Trico . On then to be plated using the anode cathode method of plating .There appears to be no secondary finishing by which I mean buffing of the Nickel ,deburring would not be necessary because the stamp and dies have tight clearances and are very hard to resist wear (Rockweel 59 approx .Mild steel is soft and because of the small size of thepiece it would not need hardening . The Stamp and dies are very expensive to make and are made by toolmakers ,remember we need 2 machines an 2 set of dies ,this cost only becomes viable if the order is in the hundreds of thousands of buckles .
Jeff
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Enigma1938
Well-Known Member
Don't you think it's better to post all your content in one single thread? Otherwise we could loose the overview
Enigma1938
Well-Known Member
Aaah, have read your post in the other thread right now. I understand.
Is this a replica or original buckle?
Is this a replica or original buckle?
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Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
Yes my intention was to have one post a sort how to post it for people interested in having a go an understanding of the Cyclist Jacket . But it turned in a selling page for Pilot and I just wanted to clean it up and let pilot have the thread as he would not take a hint and the overview as been lost . My original post was followed 20 min later by a jacket of pilots and then there was a major discussion on his jacket and where to find leather at the dump and so on . So I moved it here I think they call it hijacking huh .
Jeff
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Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
These are originals all the parts that will be original will be zips buckles buttons .What will be new ,Linings .Leather , thread . My aim is going to create a jacket for 1/3 of the cost of others . I will help and direct you guys will make sure I do not run of the rails when I am wrong .
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
My next post will be on the main body zip
Enigma1938
Well-Known Member
Do you made a decision what type of buttons you'll use? There were plenty of different styles, wood buttons in various shapes, leather ones, horn ones....
Im excited to read more of your project
Im excited to read more of your project
Ken at Aero Leather
Well-Known Member
Surely in that case both aesthetically and economically you need to use old leather?
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
Like you said used leather would be nice but I am a pit to pit of 25" or 63cm that part I have not sourced yet .I will keep you posted .
BIP
BIP
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
Seems the most popular are the leather buttons that look like a football ,Ken has offered up his assistance with this item .I would be interested in what he would go with ? .
Jeff
Kermit3D
Well-Known Member
Bombing IP, your buckles are simply perfect! It must have been very hard to find...
It's really nice to be able to share what you've learned about this jacket. I really appreciate the approach.
When this thread has matured, and your jacket is finished, it would be worthwhile to centralize the information (stories and technical data) on cyclist jackets in one place. Maybe here on the forum ? or maybe on a blog ? a website ?
It's really nice to be able to share what you've learned about this jacket. I really appreciate the approach.
When this thread has matured, and your jacket is finished, it would be worthwhile to centralize the information (stories and technical data) on cyclist jackets in one place. Maybe here on the forum ? or maybe on a blog ? a website ?
Ken at Aero Leather
Well-Known Member
Just looked behind me, we have an old Art Deco Leather Suite in the sitting room, at least 6 panels on that particular one would be big enough, not thas ours is up for grabs
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
You say you need that out by Wednesday Ill be over Monday night . Thanks Ken
Rgds Jeff
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
It took me about three days to find a source , I just put up a picture of one on eBay and said I was looking to buy some .Someone got back to me sent them the money for three and he mailed them to me . I can point you in the direction for some just PM me I will help any way I can to all you guys out there with the hardware .
Rgds Jeff
Enigma1938
Well-Known Member
Cyclist buckle 1910 vintage french workwear deadstock | Etsy
1 pair of cyclist boucles 1910s made in France condition deadstock
www.etsy.com
Deadstock 10s or 20s 10 pairs of metal buckles vintage french | Etsy
10 pairs of metal buckles 1910s or 1920s, made in France normally used for the cyclist jackets so difficult to find today color: silver condition: deadstock size (left side): length 31mm width 31mm size (right side): length 31mm width 27mm
www.etsy.com
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
You should buy some"Enigma1938 and sell them to pilot he is asking $450 each (and that's the discounted forum price) could make a healthy profit ! .Cyclist buckle 1910 vintage french workwear deadstock | Etsy
1 pair of cyclist boucles 1910s made in France condition deadstock
Deadstock 10s or 20s 10 pairs of metal buckles vintage french | Etsy
10 pairs of metal buckles 1910s or 1920s, made in France normally used for the cyclist jackets so difficult to find today color: silver condition: deadstock size (left side): length 31mm width 31mm size (right side): length 31mm width 27mm
Bip
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Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
I just looked on the Five Star site and saw the Luftwaffe jacket has the correct interlocking buckle .It does look the part ,so I guess Shawn had some made up nice job . I am sure Shawn would sell some to the members that are missing this on their jackets . I also think if you gave him your dimensions with a cycliste style jacket in mind he could make you one up in brown .I do recommend his Water Buffalo Leather for this . I have had a Jerkin made out of this ,very nice leather I must say .Would also be great for an A2 type .I will post pictures of my Jerkin later so you can see the leather and the graining .
BIP
BIP
Bombing IP
Well-Known Member
Her is my jerkin to show the Buffalo hide that Shawn has on offer ,I copied a Jerkin that was on the forum but opted for lining similar to an A2 instead of the blanket material used in original issue WD jerkins
Open this below and you will see the original that I copied from that was posted on our forum .
BIP
Open this below and you will see the original that I copied from that was posted on our forum .
BIP
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