Bugbear about cuffs Goodwear

[P-47 thunderbolt]

Hi guys, has anyone else noticed that cuffs on goodwears and to an extent bk seem too big for the leather sleeve? Ironically, ELC (although inferior in quality) are better proportioned.
Below is my Goodwear RW.
I've been looking through the Goodwear thread and it seems a common characteristic .

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

Original Roughwear

 

[mulceber]

Keep in mind, none of these manufacturers make their own cuffs. GW, BK and Aero seem to use the same or similar knits, whereas Eastman's are very different. The jacket manufacturer can't really control how big the knits are. They can only control how they make the leather parts of the jacket. And I'd trust John's patterns more than Eastman's any day. I also prefer his (and BK's) knits: Eastman's don't have the proper "half of an hourglass" shape to them, and after just a few months of wear they go totally conical.

I'd also point out that just because you can find a couple originals where the knits don't bulge out of the sleeve doesn't mean knit bulge is inaccurate: jackets were made all kinds of ways using knits from all kinds of makers during WW2. Bet you could find them both ways.

 

[Wz1999]

Keep in mind, none of these manufacturers make their own cuffs. GW, BK and Aero seem to use the same or similar knits, whereas Eastman's are very different. The jacket manufacturer can't really control how big the knits are. They can only control how they make the leather parts of the jacket. And I'd trust John's patterns more than Eastman's any day. I also prefer his (and BK's) knits: Eastman's don't have the proper "half of an hourglass" shape to them, and after just a few months wear they go totally conical.

I'd also point out that just because you can find a couple originals where the knits don't bulge out of the sleeve doesn't mean knit bulge is inaccurate: jackets were made all kinds of ways using knits from all kinds of makers during WW2. Bet you could find them both ways.

Well said

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

I think BK have wider set sleeves which probably accounts for the difference in the way they sit to goodwear.
Totally agree that JCs patterns are the best but it seems a shame to me that the knits sit like this.
I just haven't yet found originals that sit the same way - not saying they don't exist

 

[mulceber]

You're right that most of them seem to be the other way, but I did find these. The third in particular looks similar to John's.

 

[Wz1999]

I think BK have wider set sleeves which probably accounts for the difference in the way they sit to goodwear.
Totally agree that JCs patterns are the best but it seems a shame to me that the knits sit like this.
I just haven't yet found originals that sit the same way - not saying they don't exist

Original 27753

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

Ah fair enough. I can wear the GW happily, i do prefer the narrow look though

 

[Chandler]

On all of the images (vintage and today) a lot of the sleeves just look too long for the wearers. A case of grabbing a larger size for layering? Or (as in my case) out-of-proportion arms to shoulders?

 

[Sideslip]

I see what you mean but either the leather ends higher up the forearm which might look odd or the knits are just dense at the base. This is my GW m422 and it seems to be proportionate and I don’t notice the knits. If I reach for something, they cover my hand as the have scope to stretch.

If I recall correctly, some A2s had more tapered arms (pre-war? I have to look up the contract).

 

[mulceber]

If I recall correctly, some A2s had more tapered arms (pre-war? I have to look up the contract).

Monarchs for sure.

 

[Silver Surfer]

want to get rid of the cuff bulge? wet the cuffs real well,, being careful not to wet the leather, and slide a empty beer can in them. repeat if needed. easypeasy

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

I see what you mean but either the leather ends higher up the forearm which might look odd or the knits are just dense at the base. This is my GW m422 and it seems to be proportionate and I don’t notice the knits. If I reach for something, they cover my hand as the have scope to stretch.

If I recall correctly, some A2s had more tapered arms (pre-war? I have to look up the contract).
View attachment 83708

Yeah I think part of my problem is the sleeves are on the long side but they are sure to ride up once creased and worn in, so wouldn't want to tamper with the length just yet. Got to say that is some very authentic looking goatskin!

 

[P-47 thunderbolt]

what to get rid of the cuff bulge? wet the cuffs real well,, being careful not to wet the leather, and slide a empty beer can in them. repeat if needed. easypeasy

I'll give that a go! Warm or cold water?

 

[Silver Surfer]

room temp will work. NOT HOT, or they may shrink or go out of shape.