Bill Kelso timeline of leather, with a little wear thrown in...

[Skip]

I remember that on your post Pilot.

This is my first Dubow and aside from the collar issue, it appears to be ok. I'm going off the good wear description and images. The pockets are positioned correctly from the windflap, collar flap curvature is uniquely Dubow very strong, epaulettes large box stitch at either end, collar not as swooped as I would have expected, very comfortable fit with Dubow slightly shorter upper back/shoulders with wider upper sleeve arms tapering to sleeve ends that are neither too big or too small. Stitching appears to be correct and in correct places although some of it not as pronounced as in Goodwear, Athletic fit i.e. slimmer body with broader looking shoulders, not as slim as a Star or Bronco at the waist, but tapers from chest to waist. I've chosen Dark Seal as personal choice for the hide, not period correct but what I wanted. I've also chosen to modify the measurements to my dimensions and the fit is perfect, a very comfortable jacket, more comfortable than my two Werbers, but then its a Dubow its what you'd expect. The hide itself is incredibly lush, pliable and buttery, lovely smell also with lots of grain. No doubt its designed to wear to the base undercoat which is russet by the looks of it, which i'm looking forward to, similar to the sample swatches I received and weathered somewhat in earlier posts in this thread. Apart from the collar, which Andy apologised for and will fix under warranty, I can't fault it. Its not Goodwear level perfectly accurate but for what it is I'm very happy with it, and will be even more so when the collar is right.

 

[Pilot]

Happy for you...
Meanwhile, I received a few PM‘s relating similar issues like I had.
Plenty of discussions like mine on TFL I have been informed.
Regardless, I am done with it...
Lost approx. 800 Euro on that deal. Guess the maker lost a lot more, plus I am the very very happy owner of the same RW 27752 contract made by Goodwear.( thx a lot JC) .. which is worlds appart in every quality aspect, if compared with my ex disguisement A-2

 

[jeremiah]

Matt, any chance of a pic before you send it off for collar repairs?

 

[M3Cavalry]

Matt, is your Dubow made with Liberty?

Got out my ANJ3 today after our discussion. Still like it a lot. However, still intrigued by Dave in Virginia or GW making one. Dave is sending me samples.

Does anybody know if JC would make an ANJ3 for me, if only by deleting the mouton collar on one of his offered contracts? That's really all I want.

 

[Pilot]

Matt, is your Dubow made with Liberty?

Got out my ANJ3 today after our discussion. Still like it a lot. However, still intrigued by Dave in Virginia or GW making one. Dave is sending me samples.

Does anybody know if JC would make an ANJ3 for me, if only by deleting the mouton collar on one of his offered contracts? That's really all I want.

Just send an email to John and ask him. So far John answered all my queries in the best and fastest possible manner.

 

[Pilot]

Matt, any chance of a pic before you send it off for collar repairs?

Please send photos.
Thx.

 

[jeremiah]

Just send an email to John and ask him. So far John answered all my queries in the best and fastest possible manner.

Really?
His lack of replying to me along with the higher price and longer wait is ultimately why I went a different route. I am not upset or anything but I need to hear from Someone if I am to order. I know he makes good jackets and don’t expect a reply within minutes but I still have unanswered emails I sent way back in June. I just moved on.

 

[Pilot]

Really?
His lack of replying to me among the higher price and longer wait is ultimately why I went a different route. I am not upset or anything but I need to hear from Someone if I am to order. I know he makes good jackets and don’t expect a reply within minutes but I still have unanswered emails I sent way back in June. I just moved on.

Sorry to read that, never had any problem with John.

 

[jeremiah]

Obviously he was busy. Like I said. Don’t hold it against him. Biggest reason was the wait and the higher price. To be fair, i did not yet have an order “placed”.

 

[Pilot]

Obviously he was busy. Like I said. Don’t hold it against him. Biggest reason was the wait and the higher price. To be fair, i did not yet have an order “placed”.

Sure he is always very busy. His jackets are worth every penny of investment.

 

[Skip]

Johns stuff is excellent, and I too have found him every much the gentleman, it’s a long wait but if you only wanted one jacket probably worth it.

J, it’s already packed and ready to go, photos when it’s back

Matt, is your Dubow made with Liberty?

Got out my ANJ3 today after our discussion. Still like it a lot. However, still intrigued by Dave in Virginia or GW making one. Dave is sending me samples.

Does anybody know if JC would make an ANJ3 for me, if only by deleting the mouton collar on one of his offered contracts? That's really all I want.

Yeah Clark it is liberty

Dave’s work is as good as Goodwear, you won’t be disappointed. His ANJ is based for me is based on an ANJ3a Monarch of course with a civilian style collar. See my thread on it or ask questions if you have any. I’ve got a m422 booked in with him as well

 

[M3Cavalry]

As good as Goodwear...that’s high praise. I’m debating either going with him or hoping I can talk JC into making an ANJ3 when my number comes up. I did email and ask a while back to no response. To be fair, if he’s backlogged with A-2s why mess with a new design?

 

[Technonut2112]

Dave’s work is as good as Goodwear, you won’t be disappointed.

You may own one, and are entitled to your opinion of course, but from what I've seen, the work is certainly NOT at the level of JC's. I really don't want to start posting pics, and pointing out obvious flaws (which have been noticed by at least one other member), so I'll just leave it as 'I do not agree with your assessment'.

EDIT: The way and manner the stitching was completed (some pulling / distortion / inconsistent widths), can clearly be seen and compared to JC's work in pics throughout the forum.. It just can't compare IMO.. I'm not saying that your jacket isn't nice, overall it does look good to me. But again, not as good as something JC would send to a customer for the $$ charged IMO..

 

[Skip]

Clark, that’s my opinion based on what I like in a jacket and the build process.

Techno:

I’m not trying to drag JC down, in fact I have a lot of respect and time for the man and his work, I hear what your sayin, but as an overall experience IMO I’m putting them in the same basket in general terms.

I’m not into nitty gritty details to get things stitch and picture perfect. I like jackets that have that build quality and ‘feel’ of those era jackets while getting the pattern as close to originals. I feel the jacket Dave made is as good as what you get if not stronger in construction than original.

The jacket in question has all the details of an era jacket made by Monarch, sure there is always room for improvement, it may not be perfect in some areas but that’s what makes it unique and it fits my criteria hence my opinion it sits pretty high.

If you wish to pick it to pieces knock yourself out, I for one don’t really care for this sort of judgemental approach anymore

 

[dmar836]

Just caught the last few posts so didn't read the debate. I won't go so far to compare DD's work with JC's work but certainly DD's A-2s are every bit as authentic in construction as a wartime jacket plus some. I will say from the examples displayed the hides DD has used have been far more consistent than those shown,er, promised, from BK. Some of DD's hides appear to have been retreated and redyed to meet the need(may have been a one off or even mistaken on that point but I remember appreciating the extra work to get a good looking hide on one of his builds). You wanna see some uneven seams, distortion, etc. line up any number of period A-2s. Now if one is looking for a designer jacket to go with their Coach purse, then, oh well.
Dave

 

[Skip]

Sorry Dave,

Dave Sheeley not Diamond Dave

I agree though with your view on DD and Kelso

 

[M3Cavalry]

I’ve never seen either a Goodwear or Sheeley in person so no basis to compare here.

Considering ordering a M422 from Goodwear and just requesting that he delete the fur collar and do it in horsehide when the time comes.

Don’t get me wrong—I quite like my BK, but so want to get a Goodwear at some point.

 

[Skip]

Can certainly understand that.

That’s what I did with my BK ANJ3, it was modified off a G&F m422a

If you go for the plunge would love to see it

 

[dmar836]

Well, there ya go for me not reading all the last few pages! Thanks for getting me up to speed. I’d say the same for Dave S. as far as period accuracy. I saw what Techno saw in Dave’s pics but saw it as no less accurate nor any lower quality than any other maker(barring JCs work). And easily getting an approval stamp in a war-time factory.
Dave

 

[Smithy]

The funny thing is that most think that they want as close to an original as possible but in truth this would actually mean a jacket which isn't to the same construction level as the really top tier makers. We have a few original A-2s at the museum here and they are nowhere near the engineering level of something like a GW or an ELC. They all have wonky stitching in places and interestingly enough each one has pockets that are slightly out of alignment, nothing enormous but roughly one side's pocket is around half an inch higher than the one on the other side.

I'm not trying to play devil's advocate here, just pointing out that if we're honest wartime originals manufactured under wartime factory conditions aren't engineered to the same level as something like a GW.