Bill Kelso timeline of leather, with a little wear thrown in...

Discussion in 'Repros' started by Skip, Jan 25, 2018.

  1. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    BK Werber is pretty accurate Brett, and their stitching is top notch
     
  2. M3Cavalry

    M3Cavalry Member

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    ANJ3 is here. Still looking it over, but I am pleased. Kelso delivered when they said they would and to spec. Leather is much thicker than my Eastman Star. I like the Russet color on this one.

    It has the shoulder seam underneath the epaulet like a Monarch—Matt, does your ANJ3 also have this?
     

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  3. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    I’ve owned several original AN-J-3 jackets both with epaulettes and windflap and without. The treatment of the epaulettes was with the seam hidden underneath.
     
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  4. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Sensational Clark, how's the fit?

    Yeah, they haven't changed the pattern, as Dr H stated the seam runs down the middle as you say like in Monarchs and most Anj's I've seen. Although now if I was to order one again I think I prefer it without epaulettes. More sleeker looking and less fussy but that's just me and hindsite. That pattern of theirs is a bit of a combination of different makers. Based of a G&F body, with the W&G standard pencil pocket instead of the stitched in compartment slot of the G&F. When we were discussing the pattern I suggested I wanted a pointed collar and thought a Dubow would be nice but they chose a Roughwear. Not everyone likes the swoop knees of Dubow collars so maybe it was a sales based receding, It's a nice collar looks good up or down IMO and goes well with the body, also seems to have more height when up than my A2's. I'm on a phone so hard to see details, what knits did you opt for, USN? Rayon lining I presume, I went for cotton as it's less cold feeling against the skin initially, but of course not as smooth.

    Victory horse compared to yours is super thick, so yours should be easier to break in and lighter I would imagine. Did you manage to get the graininess you were after?

    Pics of you in it good sir?

    I've just ordered a Dubow 1755 in That naughty Dark Seal, it's not the authentic colour but I kinda dig it, so will be able to see what the Liberty is like in comparison
     
  5. Earloffunk

    Earloffunk Active Member

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    Nice jacket although I think russet in that jacket is not my first choice. ;-) Enjoy it.

    And: we need fit pics...
     
  6. Brettafett

    Brettafett Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the russet is lovely. I am fine tuning my Dubow 1755 as we speak, I have locked down all the details, just waiting on the 'new' batch of knit. Will be cool to do a fit-pic comparison with yours Matt ;) I am really liking BK's stuff; the Liberty really is good, the russet, seal and dark seal are all great... the thread options, the knit... (Damn. Already the brain is concocting another jacket that I cannot afford).
    ps Clark, fit pics...
     
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  7. jeremiah

    jeremiah Well-Known Member

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    Awesome jacket. Man one day I hope to have enough to buy a new BK. For now I will keep wearing my BK Dubow and ELC monarch.
     
  8. M3Cavalry

    M3Cavalry Member

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    I’m happy with the fit. Design / freedom of movement is a revelation. Bear in mind my A-2 is oversized a bit as well. Hate to say it but this design is clearly superior.
     

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  9. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    Looks good on you sir!

    Definately! AN-J-3's are the go to jacket for style and practicality, and yours is definately that. Actually, USN jackets are always more comfortable than their Air Force counterparts
     
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  10. Dr H

    Dr H Well-Known Member

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    [QUOTE="Skip, post:]Actually, USN jackets are always more comfortable than their Air Force counterparts[/QUOTE]

    USN jackets are always more comfortable than their Air Force counterparts[/QUOTE]

    I agree, perhaps not as iconic, but whether leather or shearling, the USN jackets are more wearable in more situations.
     
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  11. Persimmon

    Persimmon Well-Known Member

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    Why oversized.
    Did you ask for that ?
     
  12. D97x7

    D97x7 Well-Known Member

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    Can't say I'd ever considered the AN-J-3 before, I am now, looks great.
     
  13. daw

    daw Active Member

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    Great looking anj3, great fit, thanks for posting.
     
  14. Garylafortuna

    Garylafortuna Active Member

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    Hi M3Cavalry, your BK ANJ-3 in Liberty Russet is certainly a prepossessing piece of business. Absolutely beautiful. My closet has a few A-2s, a couple of G-1s, and a M422-A, and I've always wanted an ANJ-3. The epaulets and the inside wind flap are really appealing to me. Would you be so kind as to post the measurements of your size 44. You'll be more than happy with the russet over the dark seal. Thanks........... Gary
     
  15. M3Cavalry

    M3Cavalry Member

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    Sure, will measure it when I get home at end of week.

    I opted for the cotton lining as well Matt. They only asked what color knits, not style. Couldn’t tell you what they are but they are easily as good as Eastman’s if not better.

    It’s subjective, but the thing also smells incredible. ELC’s warhorse smells good, but this is better.

    If BK offered the antique russet leather again I’d order another ANJ3–that’s how much I like the design. Russet is an odd color on a Navy-ish jacket but I like it. For one thing, it seems less overtly military, which I prefer.
     
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  16. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    yeah, know what you mean about the fragrance of the leather, BK's is nice, pity there's no scratch and sniff online. I've been wearing the ELC almost everyday for 2 weeks now and the fragrance I must say only happens now when the sun warms it, unless of course I'm just getting used to the smell and my nose is turning off. The victory and antique is there all the time and is quite a comforting fragrance to me. It will be interesting to smell the difference if there is any between the older versions and the new. I could be wrong but I think all the major top end manufacturers source their knits from the same supplier?

    Russet's cool, although yours is more a darker russet, looks good to me Clark, and if you like it even better. Other makers used russet, that McGregor AN-J-3 I bought of DR H, was in a lighter russet, almost a tan colour and looked pretty cool too, I think its all in the design, and the AN-J-3 takes the best from the A2 and the M422 designs. Although I'm more partial to the navy version with the internal windfall, as yours is. I think you hit the nail on the head, not just in your colour choice but the design of the ANJ to me is somewhat military, somewhat contemporary civilian. A lot of contemporary, modern designs seem to borrow a lot from these military styles.
     
  17. Smithy

    Smithy Well-Known Member

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    It's a good point about leather smell Matt. Over time is has dulled quite dramatically on all of mine. The one leather which has held its leather smell the longest by far is my Barnstormer made of Horween CXL FQHH. I'm the third owner although the first two only wore it on one or two occasions so it was essentially new when I received it. It still has a fantastic whiff but it's subdued greatly from when I first got it over 5 years ago.

    I love the smell of leather, it's probably also why I buy the kind of aftershaves and colognes I do.
     
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  18. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    I won't ask what aftershaves you wear mate but I'm certainly with ya. For the last 2 weeks Ive been doing a kind of experiment with these jackets in the wild places as I trek around with my photo gear and while at times they are a little uncomfortable, when its cold and the wind is biting, its zipped to the top and the collar is up, and you can feel the comfort of buttery soft warm leather cushioning the impact of that biting wind and the smell of it as the collar wraps around your neck. Yeah really dig it.
     
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  19. Brettafett

    Brettafett Well-Known Member

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    Matt, what size did you go for compared to your Werber? Also, what knits, the purple?
    I'm going for Seal liberty, brown knit and olive drab thread. Also, not technically accurate as far as I've heard, but I prefer the more neutral combination ;)
    Now, working through sizing!
     
  20. Skip

    Skip Well-Known Member

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    HI Brett, dull purple knits, love that contrast between dark seal and red spectrum of the knits. Mines pretty much all original specs bar the Dark Seal, its not period accurate but I'm ok with that. The hides did tend to go a darker seal but not that dark, those could have been re-dyes. I'm sure they varied in knit and cotton thread to some degree anyway, and the hide colours would have varied from russet to seal so your choice not to far from period accurate.

    Size 40 but stretched the shoulders out to 18, Dubows have a smaller back panel and roomier upper sleeves, so it compensates for the smaller back panel width, but also makes it more comfortable say than my Werber to move around in. my Werber originally had 17 1/2 shoulders, but since wearing in the rain, and with a sweater underneath I measured it at 18 the other day so its stretched by me just wearing it around. As strange as it sounds I really like the feeling of wearing my ELC Werber, even though its quite snug it still quite forgiving because of the longer length and sleeves I went for.

    These are the measurements I went for in the Dubow.
    shoulders: 18
    pit: 21 1/2
    back length: 26 1/4
    sleeves: 27 (allowing a bit for creasing/shrinkage)
     

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