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Bill Kelso 29971

jschare

Active Member
I thought I remembered someone saying the Bill Kelso 29971 house jacket was based on the Rough Wear 27752 contract. Is that correct? What's the difference then between that and the RW 27752 offered on the site?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
It's the leather quality, the different hardware (zips, snaps) different label and different lining.
 

Nickb123

Well-Known Member
PLATON said:
It's the leather quality, the different hardware (zips, snaps) different label and different lining.

When you say "leather quality", what do you mean?
Obviously the premium HH has more grain, color variation, etc.
But for overall durability, isn't chrome-tanned leather generally supposed to hold up better to the elements without a lot of conditioning?

I'm interested because I like the flat/even russet color I've seen on some of the house models.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
it's a long story and I don't have time
I will try to reply as soon as able
 

John Lever

Moderator
This section is really meant to be for posts made by Manufacturers. So please use the Repro section next time,
Thanks
 

jschare

Active Member
John Lever said:
This section is really meant to be for posts made by Manufacturers. So please use the Repro section next time,
Thanks

So if we have a question for a particular manufacturer about one of their products, it doesn't go here? It goes in the Repro section?
 
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Anonymous

Guest
When you say "leather quality", what do you mean?
Obviously the premium HH has more grain, color variation, etc.
But for overall durability, isn't chrome-tanned leather generally supposed to hold up better to the elements without a lot of conditioning?

I'm interested because I like the flat/even russet color I've seen on some of the house models.

OK, I will try to answer that.
The durability of the leather isn't exactly related to the tanning.
Some sources say chrome tanned is more durable, other sources say the veg tanned is more durable. I have some serious texts on the subject but never read them too seriously. I will look more carefully to find the answer if you care.
What I can say that the difference could be that the veg tanned can live 200 years and the chrome tanned 300 years, or the other way around. We won't be here to find out so who cares?

I'd say more important if you care about durability is the finish.

When refering to lower quality leathers, it means leathers of 2nd and 3rd quality, that can't be processed as full grain so they are treated by sanding and/or other methods to remove imperfections (or natural marks) on the surface of the hide. The result of this sanding etc is what makes the leather smooth and without grain. (Leave aside that they hot iron them too in the end of the process). This kind of leathers are usually finished with semi-aniline or pigmented colors as such finish gives a uniform color that covers everything on the surface of the leather. Damping and wetting the hides may negate the effects of ironing and what is left of the grain may pop out again.

Obviously, this kind of leathers is much cheaper than full grain for 3 reasons. First the quality of the material itself, second the cost of processing it and third its value due to the above 2 reasons becomes much lower than full grain.

Full grain horsehide is a really rare hide. Full grain is what the animal has provided. 100% natural grain, no treatment on the surface other than dyeing it. You recognize it immediately when you see it.

To give a rather simplistic example, if leathers were cars, the full grain horsehide would be a Rolls Royce, and the BK 29971 hide would be a volkswagen. They are both cars, they both take you where you wanna go, but the Rolls takes you with more style.

On the bright side, one may never be able to afford the best car, because it costs a few hundred thousand dollars, but he sure could afford the best leather which costs only a couple of thousand dollars or in some cases even less.
 

Who

Member
I'd much rather drive a Volks that a Rolls, but I understand the point you are trying to make.
 
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