bfrench
Administrator
Hi, Guys,
I'm trying to figure out the relationship of the armpit hole and fit considering the A-2.
From my limited knowledge the original armpit hole is higher meaning it still sits on the shoulder but higher into the armpit than a modern day cut.
Then I've seen somewhere that the location of the armpit hole from front to back has a big play on how tight a jacket will feel across the chest.
Can someone spend a little time and help me understand this because it now seems that there is another measurement that comes into effect when considering how a repro jacket will fit.
I'm thinking that if a jacket wit a 26" standard armpit to armpit measurement with the armpit hole centered on the shoulder would give an even amount of slack across the front and back.
If the hole was centered forward - there'd be more slack across the chest but tighter across the back.
Theen if you left the hole centered as in the first instance and elongated the hole toward the front - then you'd have slack across the back and extra slack across the front giving a looser fitting jacket across the front as a whole.
How am I doing so far???
Reason I ask is that tubby guys like me are never going to fit into trim WWII patterns unless they're really customized - probably why I fit easily into a Gibson and Barnes - high square shoulders and wider armpit holes.
Ok, guys, lets hear the coments cause this could go a long way in helping a lot of us figure out fit.
Bill French
I'm trying to figure out the relationship of the armpit hole and fit considering the A-2.
From my limited knowledge the original armpit hole is higher meaning it still sits on the shoulder but higher into the armpit than a modern day cut.
Then I've seen somewhere that the location of the armpit hole from front to back has a big play on how tight a jacket will feel across the chest.
Can someone spend a little time and help me understand this because it now seems that there is another measurement that comes into effect when considering how a repro jacket will fit.
I'm thinking that if a jacket wit a 26" standard armpit to armpit measurement with the armpit hole centered on the shoulder would give an even amount of slack across the front and back.
If the hole was centered forward - there'd be more slack across the chest but tighter across the back.
Theen if you left the hole centered as in the first instance and elongated the hole toward the front - then you'd have slack across the back and extra slack across the front giving a looser fitting jacket across the front as a whole.
How am I doing so far???
Reason I ask is that tubby guys like me are never going to fit into trim WWII patterns unless they're really customized - probably why I fit easily into a Gibson and Barnes - high square shoulders and wider armpit holes.
Ok, guys, lets hear the coments cause this could go a long way in helping a lot of us figure out fit.
Bill French