A-1 Leather Jackets

[Dr H]

John is right - the basic methods involve applying a topcoat to the leather (effectively a coating/paint based on insoluble pigments in a binder) or using different soluble dyes, of which aniline dyes (or 'tar' dyes) is one family. The dyes have been around for a while (mauvine, the first, was discovered by Perkin in the 19th century) and are chemical derivatives of aniline. Therein lies the problem as the use of aniline/aniline derivatives in leather dyeing does carry with it a health risk as some of the materials are known to cause bladder cancer. Having said that, the process is pretty fraught (for the worker) if you're using chrome tanning (chromium sulphate), formaldehyde, etc. - all unpleasant in use.

Aniline dyeing is often preferred on aesthetic grounds as you can see the hide's natural surface texture/'grain', particularly in the case of something like cape or Andrew's recent post of his natural wild leather with out it being obscured. However, as it's not a coating it doesn't protect the surface against abrasion or wear. Not a problem really as in most cases this is preferred, but if you prefer the pristine 'pleather' look that'll remain like this then pigment dyeing is for you...

Semi-aniline leather is similar process, but has a thin protective top coat added to protect it from wear and staining. That 'Pull up aniline leather' (oil pull) so beloved of many of the gentlemen in the Hat Place has additional oil or wax applied to the leather to give it a distressed look. Note vegetable tanning - based on tannins - will give shades of brown.

As ever, Wiki has more for a surface skim (and it's not bad on this occasion): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather

OK, skewl's out... must get my robes on and go to the higher degree conferment ceremony in the cathedral now. :ugeek:

 

[Anonymous]

Do you guys feel that Buzz Rickson makes an accurate A-1?
Not in terms of leather but design and cut.

And do you think the A-1 should be russet only, or seal is also allowed? (and desired?)

 

[bseal]

I like the Buzz Rickson A-1 design. It's only design flaw was that it needed a softer leather. Any chocolate or dark chocolate hue would be welcome.

 

[2jakes]

I like the Buzz Rickson A-1 design. It's only design flaw was that it needed a softer leather. Any chocolate or dark chocolate hue would be welcome.

In March 2012, I first posted with regards to this specific jacket. I have learned much from
everyone here , Thanks.
I have already placed my order with John @ Goodwear.
And now the wait begins ! Should be ready by next cold spell .

 

[John Lever]

Do you guys feel that Buzz Rickson makes an accurate A-1?
Not in terms of leather but design and cut.

And do you think the A-1 should be russet only, or seal is also allowed? (and desired?)

I used to own one and it was superb, as good as ELC and GW. It had the raw edge seams and nice pocket size and spacing. As Steve commented the leather was too thick and not suited to the design.

 

[Anonymous]

edit

 

[fleet16b]

Not a good quality shot but here is a pic of a pilot wearing an A1
Any comments ?

 

[ButteMT61]

Not much to see there...what kind of comments are you looking for?

 

[fleet16b]

Nothing in particular but usually when photos like this are posted,
some of the more expert members will have interesting comment or observations
Was just being curious

 

[ButteMT61]

Well, anyone that can comment much on that one is smarter and has better eyes than me :lol:

 

[fleet16b]

yup :lol:

Well I wait a day or so and see if there are any observations then will tell more of what I know about this particular pick

Maybe our resident A1 expert Dr H has some insights :?:

 

[Phantomfixer]

Not a good quality shot but here is a pic of a pilot wearing an A1
Any comments ?

To me the photo looks staged. the blurred guy in the backround looks like a modern day guy with a camera bag of sort. The pilot is supposed to be American standing under the wing of a Brit(?) plane Canadian?? Maybe at an airshow?????

 

[fleet16b]

Not a good quality shot but here is a pic of a pilot wearing an A1
Any comments ?

To me the photo looks staged. the blurred guy in the backround looks like a modern day guy with a camera bag of sort. The pilot is supposed to be American standing under the wing of a Brit(?) plane Canadian?? Maybe at an airshow?????

Good eye
The photo was actually taken last week at an airshow I was flying in
The photographer took it (unknown to me) from a distance then aged it and sent it to me.
I am not posing as an American pilot , that just happens to be what I wear while flying my Fleet Finch 16b , a Canadian built WW2 trainer
The helmet is RCAF but the goggles are USN
I am wearing my A1 (Goodwear - Italian Capeshin) that obtained from Dr H a while back.

 

[fleet16b]

And here is another from the same show

 

[Rutger]

Good to see a Flight jacket that has actual flying time, it will be properly and authentically timeworn (for the best effect a parachute should be worn every flight).
After about 20 flight hours it should have the ELC Timeworn(TM) look, though at $100/hour the time worn effect will have been a bit more than what ELC charges for it. But authenticity has its price. Hm, the FlightWorn(TM) look, including choise of aircraft, with a COA because how can you spot the difference between civilian wear and cockpit wear.

 

[Phantomfixer]

Fleet

That is a good picture of you, and an awesome looking A-1 and flying kit, since you are flying a training aircraft......hmmmm second seat. If you ever get down the East coast for the Reading show....That has to be a blast kickin around in....


In regards to flight jackets getting actual flight time, I just got back from a trip to Spain. We hopped a C-5 from Dover to Rota. I had a choice of new nomex issue jackets, old MA-1 jackets, a FS A-2, a ELC A-2, or my Cockpit A-2. I took the Cockpit, not the same as open cockpit flying with seat harnesses and the wind hitting you...but it made it to 25 + thousand feet and back... :lol:

 

[ButteMT61]

Yeah, I got to wear a B-3 in my B-17 ride a couple years back. Makes the jacket more special for sure!
Br I'd like see some better pics of that A-1 - and planes are fine too

 

[Dr H]

Hi Cam

When I first saw that I thought that the 'distressing' of the photo looked a bit sus...
When anybody describes me as a 'resident A-1 expert' then I know it's a mickey take! :lol:
I had been about to say that I was confused by the roundel on the b/w photo, but in colour it all becomes clear .

The A-1 is looking great and I'm glad that it's working well for you (fits a treat). The good news for me is that we have a student placed in Vancouver, so I'll be heading westwards in a couple of months (and again this time next year). I'll be bringing my ELC A-1 and a leather flight helmet and goggles - so if that flight in the Fleet 16b is still on offer I'll be taking you up on it and breaking the flight in your neck of the woods.

Really looking forward to it - showed my sons some You Tube footage of a Fleet 16b flight and they were green with envy :mrgreen:

Scott - the images of that particular A-1 can be found here:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=315&start=720
I think mine were deleted from Photobucket.

Cheers

Ian

 

[fleet16b]

Hi Cam

When I first saw that I thought that the 'distressing' of the photo looked a bit sus...
When anybody describes me as a 'resident A-1 expert' then I know it's a mickey take! :lol:
I had been about to say that I was confused by the roundel on the b/w photo, but in colour it all becomes clear .

The A-1 is looking great and I'm glad that it's working well for you (fits a treat). The good news for me is that we have a student placed in Vancouver, so I'll be heading westwards in a couple of months (and again this time next year). I'll be bringing my ELC A-1 and a leather flight helmet and goggles - so if that flight in the Fleet 16b is still on offer I'll be taking you up on it and breaking the flight in your neck of the woods.

Really looking forward to it - showed my sons some You Tube footage of a Fleet 16b flight and they were green with envy :mrgreen:

Scott - the images of that particular A-1 can be found here:
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=315&start=720
I think mine were deleted from Photobucket.

Cheers

Ian

Ian
Of course the offer still stands .
Just let me know when you will be in town

 

[DG567]

Haven't worn this since I purchased it from Ian. I was on the fence about the original fit and thought about selling it and waiting for my GW order to come around. I did not like the new cape that JC was offering. Finally gained enough courage to give this one the HWT and couldn't be more pleased.