"80's or 90's" Era Eastman Non-Contract B-3

[adfrost]

As much as I like the brand new size 44 Werber contract B-3 I purchased earlier this year, one of my frustrations with it is how tight across the back it is when I raise my arms (when driving for instance). So I've had my eye out for a size 46, and thanks to eBay, I'm now the owner of this "80's or 90's" era Eastman non-contract B-3. Aside from that older jacket smell (which is tolerable), it's pretty mint. The only real wear is very small crack on the left shoulder and some rubbing on the horsehide seams. Even the ends of the cuffs show no signs of thinning or wear. I do think the 46 is a perfect fit. It's large enough to use the side adjusters to tweak the fit, but not huge like the size 48 .50 Cal I had, and I can now raise my arms without that uncomfortable pulling on the back. About the only thing I would change is that I wish the cuffs were a tad bit tighter and maybe 1/2" - 1" shorter.

If anyone has any insight on how old this jacket actually might be, I'd love to hear it. The shearling is more golden yellow and thinner than my new jacket. This appears to be pre "broken grain" shearling that they use now.


Quarter Front - Fit by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Front Fit - Open by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Unzipped by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Back by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Label by Aaron Frost, on Flickr

The biggest difference I notice between this and newer jackets, aside from the shearling, is the horsehide trim pieces on the front zipper. Every other B-3 I've seen just uses the zipper tape.


Waist Adjusters by Aaron Frost, on Flickr

A comparison of this jacket vs the Werber. The Werber collar is about 1" wider, possibly due to the cut, or due to the thicker shearling.


Collar Comparison by Aaron Frost, on Flickr

 

[ausreenactor]

As much as I like the brand new size 44 Werber contract B-3 I purchased earlier this year, one of my frustrations with it is how tight across the back it is when I raise my arms (when driving for instance). So I've had my eye out for a size 46, and thanks to eBay, I'm now the owner of this "80's or 90's" era Eastman non-contract B-3. Aside from that older jacket smell (which is tolerable), it's pretty mint. The only real wear is very small crack on the left shoulder and some rubbing on the horsehide seams. Even the ends of the cuffs show no signs of thinning or wear. I do think the 46 is a perfect fit. It's large enough to use the side adjusters to tweak the fit, but not huge like the size 48 .50 Cal I had, and I can now raise my arms without that uncomfortable pulling on the back. About the only thing I would change is that I wish the cuffs were a tad bit tighter and maybe 1/2" - 1" shorter.

If anyone has any insight on how old this jacket actually might be, I'd love to hear it. The shearling is more golden yellow and thinner than my new jacket. This appears to be pre "broken grain" shearling that they use now.


Quarter Front - Fit by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Front Fit - Open by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Unzipped by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Back by Aaron Frost, on Flickr


Label by Aaron Frost, on Flickr

The biggest difference I notice between this and newer jackets, aside from the shearling, is the horsehide trim pieces on the front zipper. Every other B-3 I've seen just uses the zipper tape.


Waist Adjusters by Aaron Frost, on Flickr

A comparison of this jacket vs the Werber. The Werber collar is about 1" wider, possibly due to the cut, or due to the thicker shearling.


Collar Comparison by Aaron Frost, on Flickr

Solid zipper too. I hate playing with the repro Crowns...

 

[busdrivermike]

Awesome looking jacket
I can fully understand your feelings about fit, personally on a sheepskin jacket
I prefer slightly oversized in the chest and shoulders for driving and reaching for things ect...
I ordered my first one years ago from aviation leathercraft so could fit a heavy hoodie under
It, I did the same with my noble house, though I never wear a hoodie under it, My personal experience
from wearing a sheepskin for a month or two straight as a regular winter jacket, looser in the ribs
Shoulders and armpits is better

 

[adfrost]

Solid zipper too. I hate playing with the repro Crowns...

Yeah, I was really unimpressed with the Crown on the .50 Cal. Looked cool...but pull was hard to line up and felt like garbage to zip. This one feels great.

 

[jack31916]

Nice early Eastman! I bought exact the same jacket in a size 46 from Eastman in 1991. So you're probably right that this jacket was made in the late 80's / early 90's.

( I thought my sleeves were to long and I never liked the jacket for that reason.)

Enjoy wearing it!

 

[B-Man2]

Is it just me, or do the older ELC Irvin's and B-3s seem like they were nicer and better made than todays jackets?

 

[MikeyB-17]

I remember them offering that leather strip on the zip as an option ‘for improved appearance’ in the first catalogue I got from ELC, which would have been around 1997. How long they had been offering that I don’t know. That one (beauty, btw) looks like the ones in that catalogue. I would have thought ELC would replace the cuffs for you.

 

[John Lever]

Merino sheepskin from Fenland tannery circa 1990 to 1994. Possibly steerhide facings.
These early jackets are on another planet compared to the ones made today. For the life of me I can't understand why Eastman make jackets from dryed out fluff.
Colymer are producing absolutely stunning sheepskin hides for McCoys and Y2 Leather.

 

[bazzer]

very nice

 

[flyincowboy]

Awesome jacket!

 

[John Lever]

The early version jackets did have longer looser cuffs. Gary changed the pattern at some point.
Don't let anyone mess with it !

 

[adfrost]

Here's another shot comparing the two. The Werber is on the left. The "broken grain" is thicker, but the older jacket is more pliable. For better or worse, the coating on the newer shearlings is thicker.

The cat approves too, which is an added bonus.

Is it just me, or do the older ELC Irvin's and B-3s seem like they were nicer and better made than todays jackets?

I'm nowhere near as qualified as most around here to speak to that, but both of these seem like very well-made jackets. It's just a difference in materials.

 

[John Lever]

The difference is that the old jacket is made from what was the worlds best tannery for sheepskin, in its day used by McCoys, Aero and Eastman.

 

[Enigma1938]

Here's another shot comparing the two. The Werber is on the left. The "broken grain" is thicker, but the older jacket is more pliable. For better or worse, the coating on the newer shearlings is thicker.

View attachment 45246

The cat approves too, which is an added bonus.

View attachment 45247



I'm nowhere near as qualified as most around here to speak to that, but both of these seem like very well-made jackets. It's just a difference in materials.

My cat did the same with my B3 a while ago. I just noticed it after an hour and then I already had a ton of extra fur in it

 

[mulceber]

The difference is that the old jacket is made from what was the worlds best tannery for sheepskin, in its day used by McCoys, Aero and Eastman.

If you don’t mind me asking, John, what changed?

 

[bn1966]

Stunning jacket that...good catch

 

[John Lever]

If you don’t mind me asking, John, what changed?

This us what Andrew Tinnion the owner of Fenland told me
Eastman rejected a batch of skins when it started flaking ( reasonable I think) problem was the jackets had already been made up so Fenland refused any come back. They fell out permanently.
Similar story with Aero I think, a box of skins got lost in transit or something.
I actually re introduced Aero to Fenalnd about 10 years ago, I think the sheepskin was called Eagle hawk or similar. They were South African Merino skins, same used now by Colymer.
Fenland went bust after Andrew Tinnion sadly died of cancer.

 

[adfrost]

Welp...I guess the shearling on this was more fragile/brittle than it first appeared. Not blaming the seller, as everything about the jacket appeared to be just fine. All I did was wear it to work once. In fact, I actually adjusted the belts out, so there was less pressure on the shearling than how the seller shipped it.

 

[Enigma1938]

Ouch that hurts. What a shame. But it dont have to mean the jacket is fragile all over the jacket. I had it on a B3 too, was only brittle at one area, the rest was fine.

 

[John Lever]

I once bought a similar jacket from Indonesia, it fell apart.