“A Better Fighting Garment…” - A Beginner’s Guide to the US Navy’s WWII-era and later Intermediate Flight Jackets

mulceber

Well-Known Member
Part 3 - The Vietnam War - The 60s and 70s

8. MIL-J-7823A (AER) [1961]
A noticeable difference from the 7823 to the 7823A is the change from a no.5 blackened Conmar main zipper to a no.10 blackened Talon ‘rectangle’ zipper. From the 7823A onwards, all G-1s would continue to use a no.10 zipper for enhanced durability (later specifications would have either a ‘paperclip’ style Scovill or Conmar No.10). Additionally, following from the trend set by late 50s 7823s, all G-1 jackets from the 7823A onwards will bear rounded pocket flaps (a simplification of the previously (but more ornate) scalloped or triangular pocket flaps). As Roger Moore notes, “in 1961, the A… series jacket was introduced and only two manufacturers had contracts: Ralph Edwards Sportswear [previously Cagleco] and Irvin B. Foster.” Moore, as do many collectors, therefore considers the A series to be one of the scarcest of the 7823 series jackets.


SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823A (AER)Contract datesComments
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-611961Manufacturer formerly known as Cagleco Sportswear.
IRVIN B.FOSTER & SONS SPORTSWEAR CO., INC. CONTRACT NO. DA 36-243-QM(CTM)8834-C-611961See notes for MIL-J-7823 (AER) and L.W. Foster Sportswear Co lawsuit

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM)8833C-61, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera
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mulceber

Well-Known Member
9. MIL-J-7823B (WEP) [1961 - 1963]
From the 7823B onwards, all G-1 flight jackets have a no.10 ‘paperclip’ style zip (blackened for the 7823B and brass for the C onwards). This replaced the rectangular Talon zipper of 7823A. The 7823B is otherwise almost identical to its predecessor.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823B (WEP)Contract DatesComments
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 10276-C-611961
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 11214-C-62unknown, likely '61 or '62jacket unattested in lists of Navy contracts we had access to; original found by Jorge
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-435-C-621962
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO.DSA-1-1040-63-C1963
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-2071-63-C1963

RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. QM(CTM) 10276-C-61, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera
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Lord Flashheart

Well-Known Member
10. MIL-J-7823C (WEP) [1964 - 1966]

It's time to turn our attention to the 7823C specification that was introduced in 1964 and lasted till 1966. As Moore notes, “[t]hese are often considered by collectors to be the last of the ‘good’ jackets as they are the last [specification] to universally have the mouton collar…”, goatskin, and single-ply rib-racked knits. The easiest way to identify between a 7823B and a 7823C specification is the zipper. The 7823B has a blackened ‘paperclip’ no.10 zipper whereas from the 7823C specification onwards the ‘paperclip’ no.10 zippers were left in naked brass.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823C (WEP) Contract datesComments
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8826
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-8825
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-10003081
IRVIN B. FOSTER SPORTSWEAR CO. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-598
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-4342-64-C
RALPH EDWARDS SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-9365
W/E STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-3271-64-C
STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. CONTRACT NO. DSA 100-599
BRILL BROS., INC.
DSA 100-71-C-0141


 

mulceber

Well-Known Member
11. MIL-J-7823D (WP) [1967 - 1970]
The 7823D (WP) is a controversial specification. Starting in 1967, it was produced until 1970. For 1967 - mid 1969, the 7823D (WP) specification was made from USN chrome-tanned seal brown goatskin with real mouton fur collars. However, sometime in mid 1969, the 7823D specification was amended to allow for faux mouton collars (80% Dynel, 20% cotton) and cowhide to be used instead. However, all 7823Ds retained double-ply no rib rack 100% wool knits. The possible combinations for 7823D G-1s are thus as follows: goatskin with real mouton, goatskin with Dynel collar, or cowhide with Dynel. Surprisingly, however, no cowhide and real mouton versions have been documented.

SPECIFICATION MIL-J-7823D (WP)Contract datesComments
SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP) RALPH EDWARDS SPRTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-1-53661966
SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP) GREGORY SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-67-C-39281967see this thread
MIL-J-7823D (WP) THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-68-C-00991968
MIL-J-7823D (WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-68-C-07591968
MIL-J-7823D (WP) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-68-C-18051968see this thread
MIL-J-7823D (WP) THE MARTIN LANE CO., INC. DSA 100-69-C-15451969
MIL-J-7823D(WP) BRILL BROS., INC. DSA 100-70-C-04841970
MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA100-70-C-04831970
MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG. CORP. DSA 100-70-C-04751970
MIL-J-7823D(WP) STAR SPORTSWEAR MFG.CO. DSA100-71-C-05351971

SPEC.MIL-J-7823D (WEP) GREGORY SPORTSWEAR, INC. CONTRACT NO. DSA-100-67-C-3928, courtesy of @Jorgeenriqueaguilera and courtesy of @mulceber (for purposes of collar fade comparison)
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