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Fivestar D1 sizing

Flash Badger

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

I‘m close to ordering a Fivestar Werber D1. Most of the listed sizing for the size c will work for me, my only issue is the hem. The jacket is 50 inches at the chest and 50” at the hem. i have a 43 inch chest but measure 41“ at the belt line. I’m concerned the 50” hem might be too loose and baggy so I’m thinking about getting a bit taken out, maybe an inch or two. I have a 5* winter halfbelt which is obviously not at thick as sheepskin but that measures 23” at the hem And I’m very happy with how it fits. What do you think? Do I need the 50 inches of the D1 to compensate for the thickness?


hope this makes sense?.

Garry
 

Cocker

Well-Known Member
I think it's just inherent to the D-1 pattern. It's supposed to be somewhat loose, as it was a mechanics jacket. If you want something equivalent but a tad more fitting, maybe you should wait for the B-6 that's about to be released? It's a bit less boxy, and the waist is more fitted.
 

FreddyF9

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

I‘m close to ordering a Fivestar Werber D1. Most of the listed sizing for the size c will work for me, my only issue is the hem. The jacket is 50 inches at the chest and 50” at the hem. i have a 43 inch chest but measure 41“ at the belt line. I’m concerned the 50” hem might be too loose and baggy so I’m thinking about getting a bit taken out, maybe an inch or two. I have a 5* winter halfbelt which is obviously not at thick as sheepskin but that measures 23” at the hem And I’m very happy with how it fits. What do you think? Do I need the 50 inches of the D1 to compensate for the thickness?


hope this makes sense?.

Garry
Hi Garry, @Cocker is totally right, if you want a faithful replica, you should accept the boxy fit of the Weber D-1 or pick a more slim fitting jacket. However, if you don’t care that much of historical accuracy and you want a good fitting jacket, you should definitely ask Shawn to adapt the waist and hem to your measurements.
 

ties70

Well-Known Member
Hey Garry,

I am facing the same problem here: big chest but no beer-belly to go with it.

Cédric and Freddy are correct, the D-1 comes with a boxy cut.
Most FS D-1s I have seen so far (with exception of probably Cédric early production jacket) are not only boxy, but point to the front at the hem, when zipped up...I am not sure if that is a general flaw in FS's patterns, a result from too much customization by the customer or simply a result from enlarging a size 40 or 42 original pattern to sizes up to 48 and 50. While having an original Werber D-1, it is quite difficult to make a full sizes pattern pack from just one and relatively small specimen...

I would (and probably will) follow Freddy's advice and have the waist adjusted...not too much, to keep the overall appearance, but enough to make the jacket more usable....A winter jacket that ends at the belt and stands open 15cm to the front is a waist of money in my eyes...

Best regards,

Ties
 

busdrivermike

Well-Known Member
This is something I’ve wondered about the jacket as well as I think my 50 chest puts me
Out of the stock size Into the custom sized category I figured that I could either get it
Tapered a bit or just borrow the side adjustments from the ANJ4, a little custom touch
It’s not historically correct but neither am I :p
Pic is not mine just a google image search
FB1AD44A-B123-4BA0-94D9-D0BB547C2ACB.jpeg
 

Flash Badger

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the responses gents. I aware of the D1’s boxy fit and how that is part of the style of the jacket but I’m trying to balance that against having a jacket that fits at the chest but also avoids the 15cm gap at the belt line which like Ties mentions, defeats the purpose of a winter jacket.
Ties, when you mention “Pointing to the front at the hem” I assume you mean when the bottom of the zip is almost the vertex of a triangle. Im not keen on that look either although it appears that I’m getting into a situation where I either get a 15cm billowing hem or a jacket with a pointy front??
I suppose the answer might be to wait on the B6 which FS are close to releasing but I like the fact that the Werber is based on a contract and Shawn has done all the nipping and tweaking he usually does based on advice from this and other forums already.
”not period correct but neither am I”, I like that statement busdrivermike and I wonder how many of us are. I’m guessing there wouldn’t be too many 6’3, 100kg, 52 year old air or ground crew like me back in the 40’s.

garry
 

entertainment

Well-Known Member
sgtcarter.png


But a D-1 comes down almost to the hips, so the waist measurement is not necessarily a good measurement to go on. You might not find it very comfortable if it is tapered. I know the people in the photo aren't the same height but the difference in length between the jackets is clear. Not a combat photo, obviously.
 

bn1966

Well-Known Member
Quite a difference on my chest to waist measurement which doesn’t work with some jackets (gaping waist) but I find the D-1 quite forgiving visually as a pattern, at least my ELC version is.
 

sliuman

Member
I bought a Werber D1 size C for my 44-inch chest in July. I, too, noted the 50-inch waist measurement and queried it with Shawn who said it was correct and asked me to retain the width. So, as I prefer looser fits -- which seems to go against the norm here -- I went with a standard cut. The jacket does stick out at the lower portion but that may be due to my belly! With an original in hand to get his measurements from, I went with Shawn's recommendation.

Layering-up does fill out the space, though. I also wear a belt pouch for my mobile on the left and another for a zippo lighter on the right at all times. Not having it completely grip me around the waist allows me easier access.

However, if you really want it tighter and don't have a gut then I would ask for a 46-48 hem measurement. Now that I'm back in London, I've been wearing the jacket almost daily for the past few weeks and it's been doing a grand job so far. For a deeper winter, pair it with a good jumper and a robust shirt and you're good to go. Colder than that and a thicker fleece will be needed.

The fact that the jacket sticks out at the front has become less of an issue because I love it so much.

The sleeves may look short because I'm only 5 feet 2 inches tall but broad across the chest and Shawn sorted me out nicely.

Pics below.

Front on the jacket looks fine. From the sides your mileage may vary. If I have any issues, it may be with the hardware. The hole on the zip pull seems to be too large, allowing the pull to twist. The same for the pocket zips. Meanwhile, the edges on the collar buckle seem a bit sharp and the metal feels lightweight. I don't know if this was how the original jacket was made.

IMG_9837.JPEG

Front view (forgive the old spotty mirror!)

IMG_9835.JPEG

Jacket left (reversed by mirror)



IMG_9836.JPEG


Three-quarters jacket right (reversed). The part that sticks out may be also due to my arm being raised here.

These pics were also taken fresh out of the box and the jacket had not had time to settle in. I may update the pics later.

Hope this helps.

Steve
 

Flash Badger

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response Steve. Your jacket looks great but I think i will struggle with 50' at the hem. I've emailed Shawn with a view to taking out 5 inches of hem but i might revise that to 4 as I probably will need a bit of layering when I come home to Scotland in March. Are you finding the wool is starting to curl/matt in areas in some of the rub areas (collar, cuffs etc)?
 

sliuman

Member
This is my first sheepskin jacket, so can't speak to any curling or matting as the wool is only about 0.5 inch long, so it may be a while before I see that.
So far no issues and I wear it almost every day.
 

Flash Badger

Well-Known Member
So I eventually committed to the Weber D1 and had it tapered from 50inches at the chest to 47 at the hem and I am very happy with the result In hind sight I might have addEd an inch to the length but aside from that It’s a great jacket for the price. Ive been spoiled by owning top tier sheepskin and the 5* does not feel as robust but the price point was not as fierce either so I’ll accept that. Happy for any feedback.
Garry
696CF511-C77F-4772-8726-AB955F2ACD5A.jpeg
 

B-Man2

Well-Known Member
The jacket looks good on you. I think you did well with the dimensions and if you hadn’t mentioned that it was a little short in the waist, I don’t think anyone would notice .
Congrats !!
 
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