Lord Flashheart
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jan and Jeremiah for explaining that, makes sense to me
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Getting into the weeds - Comparing Repro and Original Rough Wear 23380s
- Thread starter mulceber
- Start date
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
Here we go!
Jacket Body. Top two patina wise from my seven A-2s. Soft horsehide. This is an M model jacket making it REALLY old. Almost as new when I grabbed it. My second BR 23380. First was smooth and displayed no character.
Collar.
Throat hooks.
Buzz Rickson appear to have made the effort to reinforce: however, the reinforcement appears to be joined.
Shoulder.
Noteworthy difference. Not perfectly boxed.
Pocket rivets.
NOS hardware, as per the original.
Zipper.
Knits.
Very close to the originals..
Pocket flaps.
Label and lining.
Certainly one of the best repro A-2s I have ever had.
Jacket Body. Top two patina wise from my seven A-2s. Soft horsehide. This is an M model jacket making it REALLY old. Almost as new when I grabbed it. My second BR 23380. First was smooth and displayed no character.
Collar.
Throat hooks.
Buzz Rickson appear to have made the effort to reinforce: however, the reinforcement appears to be joined.
Shoulder.
Noteworthy difference. Not perfectly boxed.
Pocket rivets.
NOS hardware, as per the original.
Zipper.
Knits.
Very close to the originals..
Pocket flaps.
Label and lining.
Certainly one of the best repro A-2s I have ever had.
mulceber
Moderator
Kickass jacket, Couchy. Just from the photos, it looks like BR's the closest to Jorge's un-redyed in terms of color. The use of the double barrel eyelets is interesting, since it's accurate to a whole lot of WW2 contracts. I wonder if BR wanted to use NOS hardware, and that was what was available for eyelets.
Last edited:
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
More shine on this for sure, which could be 'worn' away.
The Buzz Rickson NOS hardware bins would have been well stocked in the early years. It is great to see that Shawn is seeking out components to enhance the reproductions he is developing now.
Exciting times for jacket nuts...
Brettafett
Well-Known Member
Brilliant stuff guys!
mulceber
Moderator
Cracking GW you've got there (or, had there, I suppose), Nick. The creasing and general wrinkles look spot on for originals.
mulceber
Moderator
Hi All, just as an update, Andy got in touch with me with his feedback on the review, and I thought it only fair to include it. He told me that BK has recently acquired the collar hook washers that Rough Wear used (picture below), and will start including them when they upgrade the RW jackets (soon, he says). He also offered to install them on my jacket, free of charge, if I want to send it to him. It wasn’t clear to me whether RW orders filled between now and the next upgrade will come with the collar hook washers by default, but I imagine he’d be happy to include them on request.
stanier
Well-Known Member
I'll take some pics when I get chance, but my GW / RW 23380 has the washers... and a nickel Crown... and the squared epaulets stitching... and the United Carr ball studs... and actually all the other 23380 bells and whistles, and in a very grainy Shinki HH that seems to be wearing uncannily like one of Jorges' originals. I feel very lucky I managed to snag one in my size and without a long wait. And actually when I think about it, for all this jacket authenticity and goodness, GW jackets are incredible value for money. $300 for the zipper alone with BK and I totally get that, not criticising them at all. And my Crown on the 23380 is absolutely trouble free I can assure you.
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
Good call. Perhaps it had one and it was replaced? As stated this is an M model which makes it 'decades' old.... M83180.. will take a look around Google...
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
Paid $300 for my Crown on the BK Werber in Japan and sent it to BK....
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
ヤフオク!
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This has a Talon fitted too.. I am unsure why the early BRs had overlooked the Crown. This could have been one of the lower priced 'budget' repros at the start of the catalogue with the sexier, more accurate jackets deeper into the range?
ausreenactor
Well-Known Member
Got it..
As you can see from JC's page the 23380 was produced with two styles of Talon zippers and the Crown...
Good Wear Leather Coat Company — Sale Rough Wear 23380 A-2 Jacket
www.goodwearleather.com
RM also use the Talon zipper in the US$2000 repro today...
BR and RM probably did a complete dive on the zippers and went with the Talon for a reason. Probably using NOS Talons on all of their offerings...
There we go. Zipper puzzle solved.
