A-1 test jacket Mod 1

I tore down and rebuilt my A-1 test jacket and am looking for some feedback on the look, fit, etc. I completely remade the arms using a more "U" shaped armscythe (provides reaching room) and tightened up the lower arms a little more to try and get the "muttonchop" look of the originals. I also lengthed the arms by 1" but that's my personal preference. It does not bind or pull back excessivly when lifting the arms like version 1 did.

I removed almost 3" from the body, re positioned the pockets, and finally added the snaps. It has very high, tight armholes (22" armhole) and fits best with a t-shirt or light shirt, which is what I was going for. This is going to be my basic 44 size for future A-1, A-2 jackets.

Shoulders 20
Front length 24
Back length 26
Pit to pit front and back 23 (same both sides)
Arm 25
Epaulet seam 7 1/2

Cheers
Mark

I'm very impressed. It's looking great. Although I think those armholes are gonna be a problem for anyone of a remotely athletic / muscular build.

Regardless, your skills are coming along in leaps and bounds ! Credit to you.

J_H

Looks spot on to me.

wow, splendid... good job
she looks very nice for me (but i'm not expert enought to give critics)

congratulation for your labor

byeeeeee marcel

Good morning, Mark:
Count me on your customer list. What's the lining, or was I so engrossed in the pics I missed it?

Looks spot on to me.I think the size of the armholes is not a problem with the thickness of the hide you will be using.

That sure looks like a vintage-cut 44 to me - a very similar fitment to my Willis & Geiger.

No tolerance for more than a thin sweater and shirt. Even then, put a heavy meal under the belt and you're out of fit.

I've never seen a pic of an A-1 in service with layers under it. Tooey Spaatz put his flightsuit over it.


All the same, it was more common for airmen to wear the A-1 loose than tight.
This seems a typical fit of the day - a little looser thru the waist than we're used to thinking of a "military cut."

Pilot of the 55th PS, 20th PG, Mather Field, Calif., 1931.

Looks good!But I'd cut off the head!!

:x I resemble that remark!

Thanks all. I think if I tightened up the waistband a bit it would look more like that 55 PS squadron pilot, but I didn't want the waistband to pull with the jacket open.



That guy also probably had about a 29" waist, which is something I definately don't have.

I think I will increase the armhole by 1" just as a nod to modern body types- I think most people will not like the armholes fitting like a shirt. The the buttonholes need to be closer to the topstiching on the front too. One good thing about cloth, I can rebuilt it and not have the extra holes showing

The liner is nothing special, just tan cotton. I didn't buy enough though so when i re-made the arms I lined them with the outer shell material. Worked pretty well.

Oh, and don't mind Clark, they don't let him out of Anoka much. He's always sending me threatening and suggestive messages. :lol:
Cheers
Mark

fishmeok said:

I think I will increase the armhole by 1" just as a nod to modern body types- I think most people will not like the armholes fitting like a shirt.

Click to expand...

Excellent idea, especially considering a lot of modern shirts don't even fit like shirts.

The work wou have done with this A-1 is just, well, A-1. Looking forward to future developments, as I'm sure we all are.

Great work Mark.

In regards to capturing the 1926 look:

1. To my eye, the original collars were about two-thirds the height of the waistbands (which bore a stronger resemblance to the navy M422 as opposed to the A-2)






2. You may consider shifting the inside button fasteners further inside the jacket.




3. Pocket shape and size were all over the place, but consider offering a smaller pocket configuration as an option.

About the button placement:

Since there's no positive seal as offered by the zipper/windflap combo on the A-2, the A-1 obviously needs a certain amount of overlap to keep wind out and prevent gapping between buttons when one is seated.

Your buttonholes are set well back from the edge of the panel, which will help the overlap. But there's still the issue of the holes themselves. The edge of the right (button) panel, hidden under the edge of the left (buttonhole) panel, should extend at least to the outboard end of the buttonholes when buttoned, and maybe even a smidge further. This will make it less likely that you'll see shirt front thru the holes, as well as help them block the wind.

I've 'shopped your photo to illustrate what I'm talking about.
The semi-transparent layer shows where the left edge might hit when buttoned, and where gaps (in blue) might allow wind or shirt front thru.


With the buttons moved back from the right edge, the left edge will have more overlap and the gaps will be blocked.

Hi Mark the jacket looks great well done !.The only problem I see is with the lining, it is supposed to have a map print with the operations territory for escape and evasion, showing the main roads and railway lines etc etc .Or may be you are going to add that later ?.



All the best Jeff

zoomer said:

About the button placement:

Since there's no positive seal as offered by the zipper/windflap combo on the A-2, the A-1 obviously needs a certain amount of overlap to keep wind out and prevent gapping between buttons when one is seated.

Your buttonholes are set well back from the edge of the panel, which will help the overlap. But there's still the issue of the holes themselves. The edge of the right (button) panel, hidden under the edge of the left (buttonhole) panel, should extend at least to the outboard end of the buttonholes when buttoned, and maybe even a smidge further. This will make it less likely that you'll see shirt front thru the holes, as well as help them block the wind.

I've 'shopped your photo to illustrate what I'm talking about.
The semi-transparent layer shows where the left edge might hit when buttoned, and where gaps (in blue) might allow wind or shirt front thru.

With the buttons moved back from the right edge, the left edge will have more overlap and the gaps will be blocked.

Click to expand...

I agree that makes sense Zoomer, I was modeling the button placement more along the lines of Eastman's jacket like the pic below from from Jack (Which placement is more accurate, original-wise?):


But I am going to move them outboard a little more on the next one. BTW your graphics both frighten and intrigue me
Cheers
Mark
jacket open:

DUBOWA2 said:

Hi Mark the jacket looks great well done !.The only problem I see is with the lining, it is supposed to have a map print with the operations territory for escape and evasion, showing the main roads and railway lines etc etc .Or may be you are going to add that later ?.



All the best Jeff

Click to expand...

I have tried replicating those old Avirex jackets from the '80's, but I can't quite seem to find the right "fit"- all mine end up nice and tight and square....
Cheers
Mark

C'mon Mark, start the Archer Wear Company!

Another masterpiece!

Regards,
Atkins

fishmeok said:

I agree that makes sense Zoomer, I was modeling the button placement more along the lines of Eastman's jacket like the pic below from from Jack (Which placement is more accurate, original-wise?):

Click to expand...

I wouldn't know, but I suspect the aerial knights of old wouldn't have taken kindly to a drafty jacket!

But I am going to move them outboard a little more on the next one. BTW your graphics both frighten and intrigue me

Click to expand...

Just two of the many services I offer.

[/quote]

I have tried replicating those old Avirex jackets from the '80's, but I can't quite seem to find the right "fit"- all mine end up nice and tight and square....
Cheers
Mark[/quote]


Hi Mark thanks for the heads up on the Airvex Averix Avirex from the 1980s ,then I wont ask about the handwarmer pockets .To bad it too difficult to make I was going to ask you to make me seven of them in different colors ,I will email John Chapman .Thanks for the quick reply ,also while I have you have you ever seen a Welsh Army airforce jacket I tried google but no luck .

All the best Jeff

They're the ones with the shearling on the outside, for camouflage in case you bail out and land among "targets of opportunity."

:lol: (some of my best friends are Welsh, so I can say this)


Escape Map of Wales