USN Deck Zip project [Bronson MOD]

Discussion in 'Cloth' started by Geeboo, Apr 25, 2018.

  1. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    There is a couple of wrong in the Bronson USN Deck Zip jkt 2017 version.
    1) The 1st is the alpaca lining - all versions point to me it is navy wool lining instead of Alpaca. The 1 & only 1 I can locate with an alpaca lining is NAF1168/ contract NXs-1404. Anyway, I will change it to navy wool lining
    2) Zip jacket are without wind flap-> will renove that
    3) The fake Talon brass zip is ok -> but will change it to Mash NOS Talon of exactly the same period
    4) Will change the knit cuff as well from Mash
    5) The highlight -> will hand wash + hand bleach myself to the most desirable effect out of the 10s of specimen found - as shown attached. The area around zip is darker & so does under-pit area
    6) Will also add some stencil at the 20180425_143941.jpg back + wash-out effect, too
    That will be a VERY LARGE PROJECT & will not be completed in a short period.:)
     

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    Last edited: Apr 25, 2018
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  2. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    The original Talon zipper & label Original3.jpg & the ONLY original found with alpaca lining NXs-1404
     

    Attached Files:

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  3. Skyhawk

    Skyhawk Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    483
    Location:
    Portland, OR
    Interesting. An alpaca lining and a label with NAF instead of NXs. Is this another rare USN flight jacket? Possibly an attempted replacement of the cloth 37J1 before they made the M422 + M423 jackets?

    The early USN 37J1 jackets had a prefix of just N or NOS. Not sure about NAF besides an unrelated acronym for "Naval Air Facility".

    Looks like an awesome project! That label sure would be an easy reproduction.
     
  4. falcon_ib

    falcon_ib Active Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    California
    Sounds like a great project. Keep us updated with your progress!
     
  5. Thomas Koehle

    Thomas Koehle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    509
    Location:
    Mexico Aguascalientes
    Yeah - interesting project ...

    Have been looking for one of those jackets in 44 but as far as I know they are produced only up to 42???

    Anyone any other info?
     
  6. jack31916

    jack31916 Active Member

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Zoetermeer The Netherlands
  7. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    some work in progress.
    The jkt is ripped to its shell before bleaching.
    The stitches are so dense & tension-ed, it is like iron-clad. Very strong sewing machine had been used, in this regard, it is almost indestructible - extremely difficult to dismantle the lining.
    An accident happened, the seams are so strong that when I tried to use brut force to tear apart the seam, the upper part of the left chest was torn !
     

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  8. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    after 2nd bleach + 1 hour of brushing
    You got to be cruel & have a let-go mindset in doing these antiquing; you just cannot not be too kind in doing these things. 20180427_115238.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
  9. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    Dry out after 2nd bleach. ripple shows up around shoulder seams & pocket seams. 20180427_142001.jpg
     

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    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
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  10. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    correct weave of navy wool lining used. Machine washed once to shrink & expose more of those cross weave pattern. Correct lining weave 27Apr18.jpg
     

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  11. Thomas Koehle

    Thomas Koehle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    509
    Location:
    Mexico Aguascalientes
    wow!

    good job so far the jacket already looks like 70 years old

    for the brushing I'd focus more on spots which would have - in real life - the highest amount of wear like elbows aso

    looking forward to see her finished
     
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  12. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    The Mash zipper & knits arrives today. I am lucky that the deadstock Talon has the mark "3" in the box, indicated it was made in 1943. The same zipper box is found on my original M445A jacket. I said lucky because its web page said some zippers are without this marking & delivery is based on arbitrary 20180505_125923.jpg picking.
    Just a bit of fun side-talking that when I say to my tailor I want to change the alpaca lining of this brand new jacket & he is quite puzzled - do you mean it ? YES, of course !
     

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    Last edited: May 5, 2018
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  13. Geeboo

    Geeboo Active Member

    Messages:
    118
    the label arrived, it looks ok.
    Just read from atthefront website that there is a thin nylon in between the shell & the wool lining for wind proofing in 1st pattern deck zip jkt. Since they claimed they have dissected 20180526_173753.jpg an original to reproduce - I trust them & will add such.
    By then, an original zip deck must be very very warm cos a thick shell + a wool lining is already warm enough, adding such a wind proof nylon will make it un-wearable in Most of the days - esp. in Hong Kong where i live !
     

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  14. jack31916

    jack31916 Active Member

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Zoetermeer The Netherlands
    It's true that there's some sort of liner between the shell and the liner of the jacket. I don't know if it's a sort of nylon but I thought it was more a plastic / thin rubber material to make the jacket wind (and more important) waterproof on the inside. My friend has an original NOS Deck Hook jacket and I have a Buzz Rickson Zipp Deck jacket. When wearing the jackets for the first time at a reeanactment show we were making a lot of noise like someone was twisting plastic bags. Once worn in the noice disappeared.
     
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